txav8r's new barn construction (RV but could be boat)

[zipper]

My overhead doors will be insulated steel, overhead doors, so I'm not sure about a walk door in that. I should check clopay and will. But a dedicated walk door would be preferred. I could do a 32 but with no room to spare. A 30" needs only 32.5" rough opening and that will work. It's just right and non traditional in how it ties to the building. So I would like to have a framer frame it.

Will trying to squeeze in a door allow room for electrical boxes, light switches as you enter to be recessed or will they be surface mounted. Just thinking down the road.

 

[DawgDaze]

AMAZING! Thanks for sharing the progress Mel!

 

[itsdgm]

There are several roll up door options that can have a man door built into them. Have you looked at those options mel?

 

[txav8r]

@AZDANSX230HO , the wind loading and snow loading on buildings such as these, are far superior to traditional construction or even metal buildings. A Future Steel (Steel Masters) building is rated for 130mph wind loading, and a 5' snow load.

Thanks for the other options @itsdgm , I have been considering that. But even those doors are limited width is seems, so having a 28 or 30 door beside the garage door is better I think.

@zipper , yes, I will have flush mounted switch plate and outlets in optimum positions inside the building, planning for lighting and power needs. I also want to consider future needs...if I only knew what they were! lol I am spray foaming the inside, so after, I will run electric runs on foam and behind OSB and in wall recesses, I will be able to flush mount outlets and switch plate. I intend to flush mount even the RV power pedestal.

@DawgDaze , thanks! And howdy!

 

[AZDANSX230HO]

@AZDANSX230HO , the wind loading and snow loading on buildings such as these, are far superior to traditional construction or even metal buildings. A Future Steel (Steel Masters) building is rated for 130mph wind loading, and a 5' snow load.

Thanks for the other options @itsdgm , I have been considering that. But even those doors are limited width is seems, so having a 28 or 30 door beside the garage door is better I think.

@zipper , yes, I will have flush mounted switch plate and outlets in optimum positions inside the building, planning for lighting and power needs. I also want to consider future needs...if I only knew what they were! lol I am spray foaming the inside, so after, I will run electric runs on foam and behind OSB and in wall recesses, I will be able to flush mount outlets and switch plate. I intend to flush mount even the RV power pedestal.

@DawgDaze , thanks! And howdy!

Thanks for the info Mel, I think I will go that direction, PM me how much these cost if you do not mind. I have a 3 car garage, but it is not deep enough for the boat, if I put it in sideways it will fit, but it takes up my 2 car space, which is where I park the Corvette.

 

[Zarrella]

@AZDANSX230HO
Screw that....You need to just build a Hanger! You know you are going to buy more and bigger! (Said the guy who is thinking about building a 3rd garage!)

 

[AZDANSX230HO]

@AZDANSX230HO
Screw that....You need to just build a Hanger! You know you are going to buy more and bigger! (Said the guy who is thinking about building a 3rd garage!)

Lol, probably so, I would like to add a couple more Vette's to the collection I want to start. If it were up to me I would build a "Massive Garage" with a living quarters inside, that would be awesome.

 

[txav8r]

@AZDANSX230HO
Screw that....You need to just build a Hanger! You know you are going to buy more and bigger! (Said the guy who is thinking about building a 3rd garage!)

Uh, you can go as big as you want and one guy to another, GO FOR IT! And these buildings have been built and used for everything under the sun! They are in Antartica, they are hangars, they are museums, they stored the Goodyear Blimp at one time, even B-52's! This building has greater size opportunity than traditional metal building construction.

 

[AZDANSX230HO]

Uh, you can go as big as you want and one guy to another, GO FOR IT! And these buildings have been built and used for everything under the sun! They are in Antartica, they are hangars, they are museums, they stored the Goodyear Blimp at one time, even B-52's! This building has greater size opportunity than traditional metal building construction.
View attachment 50702 View attachment 50703

Wow, that's cool. Even though we live out in the country on 2 acres, we do have a small HOA, I should probably check to see if they will allow this type of steel building.

 

[txav8r]

I wouldn't ask the question that way. I would read my covenants and know what they say. Having served on the board of our small HOA, I can tell you out of 122 lots, there are 122 opinions of what is ok and what isn't. The covenants rule. If "metal" barns or buildings are allowed, then excluding a style would be hard. Some covenants exclude prefab. The intent is to prevent a mobile home or "manufactured house". But some HOAs want to stretch that to cover anything that an individual may not like. You could call this barn a prefab. You could call a stick built home prefab. You order a barn package of any type, and wood or metal will show up delivered as a lumber or steel package. Stretching the term prefab or manufactured house to other buildings won't hold up, but who wants to fight city hall? @AZDANSX230HO , I have done a number of projects over the years both in town and in the country. I can tell you it's is just like who is in office, some openly go along with anything, and others deny. It's just their personality. If you have a middle of the road board of directors, it's peaceful times, if not, it isn't. In our community, our architectural control committee has responsibility to approve building plans for any structure, including fences. Occasionally, an over reaching hoard m miner will try to influence the ACC, and it can get ugly. The company I used only sells galvalume finish for the main building. Hit you can add colored end walls or even build them stone or brick. There are lots of ways to appease, the A model building has straight walls and normal pitched roof, but the eaves and peak are curved, but it can be had in small to large buildings alike. The benefit of one of these buildings is wind and snow loading being higher, and no rafters or trusses. So the open space is much greater than traditional construction. You can also get away with a shorter profile than conventional due to no trusses, so read your covenants before you give a neighbor right of first refusal!

 

[AZDANSX230HO]

We have a lot of horse owners including us, we have a metal horse shelter, so it probably will not be an issue, but you are right, I will read through the covenants.

 

[Wayloncle]

@AZDANSX230HO
Screw that....You need to just build a Hanger! You know you are going to buy more and bigger! (Said the guy who is thinking about building a 3rd garage!)

I looked at a home on a small airstrip that had a Hangar, I wanted it so bad! The hangar was 60'x45' if I remember correctly.

 

[zipper]

Five years ago we built a Calhoune Superstructure, 82' x 152', on the farm for our horses and hosting varied horse related events. At least that was the plan, I moved the cows hay, sawmill, boat and other equipment inside for last winter and most is there again this winter. Time to build another building for the sawmill and wood operation and get the other stuff out so my wife can use her building as it was intended. An inside look at it now, standing on storage area above horse stalls. Plenty of room for the Yamaha, Trucks, tractors etc. No hurricanes or tornadoes here so a wind rating of 90mph will do and with an 8' bow spacing its made for heavy snow loads. I love this barn, it is great having an area out of the weather to work on and put stuff in.

 

[Wayloncle]

Awesome!
That would cover my house and the house behind me with our tiny lots

 

[txav8r]

We started framing for the end walls today. I Elected to frame with steel and I can't weld so I hired that done. Doing it out of receiver channel, 4" square tubing, c purlin, and setting the ends back in my base plate, allowed just enough room to get a 36" wide steel man door in!!!

 

[buckbuck]

Starting to look tornado proof.

 

[txav8r]

All steel structure is finished.

 

[txav8r]

I had an RV pedestal input in last year that had a 50Amp double pole to power the coach with two 110V legs, a 30A and a 20A outlet as well. I bought 60' of 6GA 3 conductor with a ground for it when I put it in. I bought a junction box and more 6Ga stranded to extend that to where that pedestal will go just outside the barn. I bought a new RV panel for in the barn and 6GA thhn stranded to run to it. But I also bought 2Ga to make into 3 conductor with a smaller ground wire, to run from my existing 100A panel (replacing with a 200A panel and moving 100A to the new barn. The meter base is 200A. The site to connect the panels, extend the existing run, and add a run from the new barn service panel to the new RV panel inside the barn, as well as Romex to run for outlets and various supplies...$680. Stuff adds up.

And my metal guy picked up and delivered the tin for the outside of the end walls and the trim!

 

[txav8r]

The future steel folks suggest using angle and field bending to attach the end walls to the building. That was a major concern as to how to do it. My crew putting up the end walls did it in short order without all to fuss. They stood the jamb, set a cut piece of 1/4" steel flat on the roof next to it, trimmed to sit against the jamb or tubing, depending on which support needed, and welded the plate to the upright. Then they just used a sealing screw through the roof into the plate. That wall is solid.

 

[txav8r]

Progress being made. Having to work, so days are limited to get it done. It's piece work from here as each piece has to be custom cut to fit.