Any tricks for getting fuel tank access panel off??

[Weebs74]

trying to get the access panel off. Tried regular ratchet. Bolts broke. Shifted to large impact. Little better movement....2 bolts broke.

I now have at least 5 broken. 3 I have caused and 2 or 3 from previous owner. Would love some input on how to not make this worse.

Any input on drill and tap sizes appreciated.

 

[Betik]

@Bruce had a very detailed post about this. You might want to search on the top left for that thread.

 

[Chillypilot]

I sprayed penetrating oil on those bolts several times for a couple of days and then used an impact wench to remove them and the bolts came out without any major difficulty.

 

[Bruce]

This was my experience https://jetboaters.net/threads/my-e...nk-access-hatch-to-add-sound-insulation.6309/

Drilling those bolts out was not fun. I tried easy outs without success. I believe that there is some metal, perhaps aluminum in the hull that the bolts have bonded to.

I have removed the panel easily a few times since.

 

[Beachbummer]

This was the project from hell for me. I gave up on 3 holes that I could not redrill, and used plastic caps to fill those holes.

I tried several inserts (heli coil like) and other technologies (brass inserts) to try to repair the hole after the fact. I have a variety of fasteners now affixing the panel on my boat

well nuts and brass inserts did the trick for me once I got the hole opened. There is a large aluminum insert in there, you could retap it too, but I found it tedious and painful to do so, specially after drilling the broken bolt. it's just not my strong suit.

About half the bolts were absolutely destroyed and did not come out even with impact wrench. Broke bits and even when I got a good hold of the bolt after drilling the head and removing the panel, the bolts would just disintegrate before turning.

Worst of all, it was for nothing, as my issue was not down there, my fuel float was fine, it was my gauge that was broken!

I wish you much much better luck than I had.

 

[zipper]

I must be one of the lucky ones. All of the bolts came out without breaking although the aft 2 were difficult. The thread sealer used at the factory does make it difficult to remove the hatch bolts. I just set the square bit with a hammer and used a 3/8" ratchet to back them out slowly and then tighten then loosen as you would when using a tap to cut threads.

 

[TheGriz]

I just did mine today: 7 came out as intended and the others had to be drilled. I started with a 1/8 bit, stepped up to 1/4, and finished with a 3/8 bit. The ones with broken bits still in them from the previous owner were the worst.

 

[bronze_10]

All of mine came out easy... one had had to be replaced but but still came out..

 

[2nazt]

If you can get the heads off you may be able to use vice grips or two nuts and lock on and use an impact sockets with better grip and able to get penetrating fluid into the area better.

 

[Weebs74]

I sprayed penetrating oil on those bolts several times for a couple of days and then used an impact wench to remove them and the bolts came out without any major difficulty.

Oh Lord, 10 years on the ocean have taken their toll. i've sprayed everything twice...and the impact just keeps ripping the heads off the bolts. I think I'm 6 broken bolts into this job now. I want to run and hide. I'm tempted to just spin all the heads off with the impact and get to drilling. I know no one wants to do that, but I've been tip toeing around this job for a week trying to get "the Force" to be on my side.

 

[Weebs74]

I just did mine today: 7 came out as intended and the others had to be drilled. I started with a 1/8 bit, stepped up to 1/4, and finished with a 3/8 bit. The ones with broken bits still in them from the previous owner were the worst.

Thanks for the info. I've done that in the past and found that once I have the pilot holes drilled, the larger bits can get hung up and explode (any tips??). The flip side is going through a hundred more expensive, larger sized bits.....You finished with the 3/8? then you tap with what? Can't wait for this job to finish. Hoping someone hid a pot-o-gold under that access panel!

 

[Bruce]

Has anyone tried using a pencil torch to apply heat? The plastic washer would certainly suffer but it might help to get the bolts free?

 

[Weebs74]

If you can get the heads off you may be able to use vice grips or two nuts and lock on and use an impact sockets with better grip and able to get penetrating fluid into the area better.

that is a great idea...never tried it before, but I did just snap a bolt off of the zinc plate on the jet pump and was able to power it out with the vice grips. impact worked very well on the other 3 bolts. I suppose I should change out all the bolts as I'm sure they are stressed out at this point.

Also...maybe the 1/2 impact is a bit too powerful for the size of the bolts. the smaller impact can't move them at all.

 

[2nazt]

Also remember to try and tighten some also. This can work the bolt back and forth and break free any build up on the threads.

 

[scopeusa]

I would not use a torch for fear of what the heat may do to the gel coat. I my view an impact is asking for problems in the shear department. Its the thread lock that holds them in for multiple turns. If you are removing to change the cables think about an alternative I discovered today, a method of threading your cables under the hatch. See replacing steering cables in about an hour....................

 

[Beachbummer]

You can heat the bolt with a soldering iron, or use a heat gun if you don't want to use a torch.

 

[Weebs74]

Be

This was the project from hell for me. I gave up on 3 holes that I could not redrill, and used plastic caps to fill those holes.

I tried several inserts (heli coil like) and other technologies (brass inserts) to try to repair the hole after the fact. I have a variety of fasteners now affixing the panel on my boat

well nuts and brass inserts did the trick for me once I got the hole opened. There is a large aluminum insert in there, you could retap it too, but I found it tedious and painful to do so, specially after drilling the broken bolt. it's just not my strong suit.

About half the bolts were absolutely destroyed and did not come out even with impact wrench. Broke bits and even when I got a good hold of the bolt after drilling the head and removing the panel, the bolts would just disintegrate before turning.

Worst of all, it was for nothing, as my issue was not down there, my fuel float was fine, it was my gauge that was broken!

I wish you much much better luck than I had.

I think you and I will have a lot more in common by the completion of this job!!

Thanks so much for your feedback. Misery loves company.

 

[Beachbummer]

If you are ok with not fixing them all, I printed some caps that look way better than an empty hole. Hopefully you can fix them, but if you find that is not worth it, I could send you some caps to cover the holes.

 

[Mainah]

If there is enough bolt left these work like a charm after soaking the bolts overnight in penetrating lubricant.

 

[Speedling]

My bolts were horrid. I believe they are basically inserted into the fiberglass with some sort of epoxy or something.
I had to drill out most of them and then I filled with epoxy I use at work that is far stronger than fiberglass epoxy they used on our boats. It sets quickly so once It was inserted, I was able to drill and tap it and replace the bolts. I actually have two more to drill out, but I had to get the boat out a couple times this year and not just work on the boat.