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Looking to the speakerHeads for help/suggestions! !

Install is finally complete with sound test and everything sounds awesome (already got the JBL cabins replaced)! ?
I'll post an install thread with sound test later this week. Thanks to everyone who walked me through it and helped me realize I didn't know what the F I was doing.
Congratulations! I’m sure I’ll run into you on the lake this season. Look forward to hearing how it turned out
 
Glad to hear you got it all working. Sucks to have to go through growing pains, especially when it comes to marine equipment or heck just boats in general. At least you learned some new things and on the next time should be a lot easier.
 
I have a couple of questions. I am thinking about sub placement. I have a 10" Kicker tube with 1 active sub and 1 passive radiator.

Option #1 - I could place the sub in a storage compartment and then cut out a vent. If I do this in the rear storage, I lose valuable space and I have to cut a hole in my boat for the vent. I would only be able to use my starboard side rear compartment. My Port side has three batteries and a triple bank charger in a custom built rack taking up ALL the rear space. I could use the portside storage in front of the copilot chair. But Im worried the door will rattle. I don't like rattles!

Option #2 - I can install the sub under the dash or helm by my feet. I had my kid hold the sub in place while I sat in the captain's chair and it wasn't bad. I could still get my feet under the sub comfortably, had plenty of legroom and it didn't look as bad as I thought it would. In addition, if I don't like it there or it sounds bad. I can move it and only have 4 little screw holes to fill.

My questions are what do you think is the best placement for the sub?
If I use the starboard side rear storage, what size vent do I need for the 10" subs?
If i place the sub by my feet, can the cone of the subs passive radiator face the cone of a full range speaker? Or should I separate the speakers? See pics. I don't understand sound waves well enough to know if I will get some weird reaction if the speakers face each other.
 

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I have a couple of questions. I am thinking about sub placement. I have a 10" Kicker tube with 1 active sub and 1 passive radiator.

Option #1 - I could place the sub in a storage compartment and then cut out a vent. If I do this in the rear storage, I lose valuable space and I have to cut a hole in my boat for the vent. I would only be able to use my starboard side rear compartment. My Port side has three batteries and a triple bank charger in a custom built rack taking up ALL the rear space. I could use the portside storage in front of the copilot chair. But Im worried the door will rattle. I don't like rattles!

Option #2 - I can install the sub under the dash or helm by my feet. I had my kid hold the sub in place while I sat in the captain's chair and it wasn't bad. I could still get my feet under the sub comfortably, had plenty of legroom and it didn't look as bad as I thought it would. In addition, if I don't like it there or it sounds bad. I can move it and only have 4 little screw holes to fill.

My questions are what do you think is the best placement for the sub?
If I use the starboard side rear storage, what size vent do I need for the 10" subs?
If i place the sub by my feet, can the cone of the subs passive radiator face the cone of a full range speaker? Or should I separate the speakers? See pics. I don't understand sound waves well enough to know if I will get some weird reaction if the speakers face each other.

Not sure about placement of the sub, but to help with door rattles I placed some soft door/window trim around the whole lip where the door seats and it keeps it from rattling. White and matches the boat. Can't even tell it's there. Picked it up at Homedepot.
 
I have a couple of questions. I am thinking about sub placement. I have a 10" Kicker tube with 1 active sub and 1 passive radiator.

Option #1 - I could place the sub in a storage compartment and then cut out a vent. If I do this in the rear storage, I lose valuable space and I have to cut a hole in my boat for the vent. I would only be able to use my starboard side rear compartment. My Port side has three batteries and a triple bank charger in a custom built rack taking up ALL the rear space. I could use the portside storage in front of the copilot chair. But Im worried the door will rattle. I don't like rattles!

Option #2 - I can install the sub under the dash or helm by my feet. I had my kid hold the sub in place while I sat in the captain's chair and it wasn't bad. I could still get my feet under the sub comfortably, had plenty of legroom and it didn't look as bad as I thought it would. In addition, if I don't like it there or it sounds bad. I can move it and only have 4 little screw holes to fill.

My questions are what do you think is the best placement for the sub?
If I use the starboard side rear storage, what size vent do I need for the 10" subs?
If i place the sub by my feet, can the cone of the subs passive radiator face the cone of a full range speaker? Or should I separate the speakers? See pics. I don't understand sound waves well enough to know if I will get some weird reaction if the speakers face each other.

@kgower had cut his into passenger storage.

Here’s a couple threads on this subject

Sub threads for 190/195


 
I have a couple of questions. I am thinking about sub placement. I have a 10" Kicker tube with 1 active sub and 1 passive radiator.

Option #1 - I could place the sub in a storage compartment and then cut out a vent. If I do this in the rear storage, I lose valuable space and I have to cut a hole in my boat for the vent. I would only be able to use my starboard side rear compartment. My Port side has three batteries and a triple bank charger in a custom built rack taking up ALL the rear space. I could use the portside storage in front of the copilot chair. But Im worried the door will rattle. I don't like rattles!

Option #2 - I can install the sub under the dash or helm by my feet. I had my kid hold the sub in place while I sat in the captain's chair and it wasn't bad. I could still get my feet under the sub comfortably, had plenty of legroom and it didn't look as bad as I thought it would. In addition, if I don't like it there or it sounds bad. I can move it and only have 4 little screw holes to fill.

My questions are what do you think is the best placement for the sub?
If I use the starboard side rear storage, what size vent do I need for the 10" subs?
If i place the sub by my feet, can the cone of the subs passive radiator face the cone of a full range speaker? Or should I separate the speakers? See pics. I don't understand sound waves well enough to know if I will get some weird reaction if the speakers face each other.
Sounds like you have the same sub as I do. Not sure about porting, or how much room you have under the port aft storage, but it honestly doesn't take up that much room. I still have enough room to add 2 more batteries along with my 3 amps, all in the same storage compt. Working on a write-up of my I stall now.
20220313_161519.jpg
 
Sounds like you have the same sub as I do. Not sure about porting, or how much room you have under the port aft storage, but it honestly doesn't take up that much room. I still have enough room to add 2 more batteries along with my 3 amps, all in the same storage compt. Working on a write-up of my I stall now.
View attachment 173844

Enjoying that Kicker sub? Thought about one in that dead space in the far rear port pocket. Or, possibly under my bench, but I would hate to give up used storage space.
 
Option #1 - I could place the sub in a storage compartment
The sub will lose impact inside a compartment. Ideally it needs to be in the open.
Option #2 - I can install the sub under the dash or helm by my feet.
Will it fit under your seat on the strb side facing fore/aft instead? It has mounting brackets so you should be able to mount it to the side of wall under the seat?
If i place the sub by my feet, can the cone of the subs passive radiator face the cone of a full range speaker? Or should I separate the speakers? See pics. I don't understand sound waves well enough to know if I will get some weird reaction if the speakers face each other.
While the bass sound waves shouldn't be much of an issue, the bigger problem will be dispersion of the mid/high sounds from the speaker in the deck wall - the sub will be blocking it. One of your pics shows speaker placement behind the seat - that would be a better location if you put the sub by your feet.

If the sub fits under your seat, that would be out of the way and not block any speakers. Or under the passenger seat.
 
Sounds like you have the same sub as I do. Not sure about porting, or how much room you have under the port aft storage, but it honestly doesn't take up that much room. I still have enough room to add 2 more batteries along with my 3 amps, all in the same storage compt. Working on a write-up of my I stall now.
View attachment 173844
Yes Sir same sub. I like how you used the floor mount to protect the top of the sub.
The sub will lose impact inside a compartment. Ideally it needs to be in the open.

Will it fit under your seat on the strb side facing fore/aft instead? It has mounting brackets so you should be able to mount it to the side of wall under the seat?

While the bass sound waves shouldn't be much of an issue, the bigger problem will be dispersion of the mid/high sounds from the speaker in the deck wall - the sub will be blocking it. One of your pics shows speaker placement behind the seat - that would be a better location if you put the sub by your feet.

If the sub fits under your seat, that would be out of the way and not block any speakers. Or under the passenger seat.

Im not sure if it will fit under the seat, but I really like that idea! I will check it out this weekend. I wonder if I could extend the seat pole to sit a little higher. I use the bolster 100% of the time because the seat is at an odd Height for me. When sitting flat on the seat Im looking straight at the black bar on top of the windshield.
 
Yes Sir same sub. I like how you used the floor mount to protect the top of the sub.


Im not sure if it will fit under the seat, but I really like that idea! I will check it out this weekend. I wonder if I could extend the seat pole to sit a little higher. I use the bolster 100% of the time because the seat is at an odd Height for me. When sitting flat on the seat Im looking straight at the black bar on top of the windshield.

My wife would like me to put a sub under her seat, she’s a bass head
 
Ohm wee... I took an ass chewing from the wife, but whatever. Its gonna sound bad ass when im done.
Got two Clarion 5 channel amps, 10 kicker tube, kicker 8" coax, RTIC cooler with sea deck top, SS Boat buckles, 4 1p66 storage boxes, JBP trailer pads and tons of other little neat things. I will post a laundry list of upgrades when im done.
On a different note... Im seriously considering picking up the SMD DDr1 and CC1 combo to tune everything. I could tune my boat, my kids truck, my truck and my wifes golf cart. Has anyone had any experience with the SMD products?
 

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On a different note... Im seriously considering picking up the SMD DDr1 and CC1 combo to tune everything. I could tune my boat, my kids truck, my truck and my wifes golf cart. Has anyone had any experience with the SMD products?
Not here...I've tuned and dialed-in by ear and DVM only. Sounds like an easy to use product if you have several setups to check. But I wouldn't get it for a one-off install.
 
..I've tuned and dialed-in
I picked up lots of great ideas from this thread, thanks everyone. I decided to bite the bullet and purchased the SMD DD1+/ CC1 combo to tune the amps on my boat and on my kids truck. These things are incredibly easy to use and my system sounds fantastic. Turns out the H.U. on my boat can go full volume without distortion. I was able to not only set the gains on my amp, but also set the overlap to 7 DB on my Sub. BTW, when tuned right, this little 10" sub bumps. Especially in this location. Adjusting the crossover was also easy. We downloaded the test tones and dialed in the amp perfectly. No guessing about what Hz I might be at, I know exactly what frequencies' my filters are set at.

I also added the adjustable height seat. It bolted right into the factory holes. I used the factory slide/ swivel seat bracket so both Capitan's and copilot chairs matched. The seat clears the sub and it allows me to see over the windshield. Sitting a little higher also gives me a great view of what's in front of the boat. For me, this is the best mod I've done yet.

I noticed when I am pushing the power on the amps, they get hot. They have not gone into protect mode, but I bet they were not far from it. My power and ground wires are plenty big enough to handle the power, so that's not the problem. I think it's the location of the amps under the helm and lack of airflow. I built a 12v IP65 triple fan amp cooler out of spare parts to help move the air. My amp is lifted 1/2 " off the HDPE board its mounted to. Im hoping air will flow all the way around these amps and keep them cooler. Probably overkill, but I have a fourth fan I plan to mount to the vent on the underside of my dash. This should evacuate any warm air from under the helm further helping the amps stay cooler.
 

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My Kicker PXAs would fry and egg but never once shut off. Good marine stuff will handle heat fine.
 
My Kicker PXAs would fry and egg but never once shut off. Good marine stuff will handle heat fine.
Ive become a believer that kicker puts out some quality marine audio equipment. My KXMA’s run pretty cool and trouble free so far.
 
I picked up lots of great ideas from this thread, thanks everyone. I decided to bite the bullet and purchased the SMD DD1+/ CC1 combo to tune the amps on my boat and on my kids truck. These things are incredibly easy to use and my system sounds fantastic. Turns out the H.U. on my boat can go full volume without distortion. I was able to not only set the gains on my amp, but also set the overlap to 7 DB on my Sub. BTW, when tuned right, this little 10" sub bumps. Especially in this location. Adjusting the crossover was also easy. We downloaded the test tones and dialed in the amp perfectly. No guessing about what Hz I might be at, I know exactly what frequencies' my filters are set at.

I also added the adjustable height seat. It bolted right into the factory holes. I used the factory slide/ swivel seat bracket so both Capitan's and copilot chairs matched. The seat clears the sub and it allows me to see over the windshield. Sitting a little higher also gives me a great view of what's in front of the boat. For me, this is the best mod I've done yet.

I noticed when I am pushing the power on the amps, they get hot. They have not gone into protect mode, but I bet they were not far from it. My power and ground wires are plenty big enough to handle the power, so that's not the problem. I think it's the location of the amps under the helm and lack of airflow. I built a 12v IP65 triple fan amp cooler out of spare parts to help move the air. My amp is lifted 1/2 " off the HDPE board its mounted to. Im hoping air will flow all the way around these amps and keep them cooler. Probably overkill, but I have a fourth fan I plan to mount to the vent on the underside of my dash. This should evacuate any warm air from under the helm further helping the amps stay cooler.

Nice work! Looking real good.

Few questions:

What seat mod did you get to adjust the height to fit the sub? I like the idea of placing the sub in the same spot since it's dead space. Either that, or right behind the seat, but we use that for a cooler backpack spot most times (I have a 210, so it's a tight space behind the seat).

Do you have a thread going with a list of the parts you used and setup? I just installed six 8" kicker speakers and am wrapping up things with the install right now. I also went with the charcoal grilles. I think they look good with the grey/white interior.
 
I will say this, the 8's are loud when running RMS wattage. I will put together a parts list tonight and post it here. The seat mod was from Amazon.
Also, pic of finished amp cooler. Works perfectly and looks cool to.
 

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Audio parts list from Amazon:
12V Moisture-Proof Fan 120mm 2-Pack High Speed 12 Volt DC 2Wire 3Pin Exhaust Cooling Fan 3000RPM
AC Infinity Black Ventilation Grille 18", for PC Computer AV Electronic Cabinets, Also mounts Three 120mm Fans
KICKER 46KMC4 Weather-Resistant Gauge-Style Media Center with Bluetooth- This head unit is AWESOME runs full volume with 0 distortion!
KICKER 46KRC12 Marine Remote Control Commander for The KMC2, KMC3, KMC4 & KMC5 - mounted on swim deck
KICKER TB 45CWTB102 10 Inch 800W Max 2 Ohm Enclosed Tube Reflex CompR Subwoofer
Kicker 45KM84L 8-Inch Marine Coaxial Boat Speakers, Black and White Grilles, Red LED Lights, 4-Ohm, 300 Max Watts, Pair
KICKER Black OEM Replacement Marine 6.5" 4 Ohm Coaxial Speaker Bundle - 4 Speakers
Kicker 46CK4 Car Audio 4 Gauge 2 Channel - Mono Amp Amplifier Install Kit CK4
Clarion XC2510 700W Peak Ultra Compact 5/4/3 Channel XC Series Micro Class D Marine Amplifier,SIlver

Additional things I bought that really helped with sound system:
Steve Meade Designs SMD DD-1+ and CC-1 Combo Pack - its expensive, but honestly I got so many conflicting answers on how to tune my system that I just pulled the trigger and got this set. Im tuning 4 different audio systems, so for me it was totally worth the expense.
AUKUYEE Updated 2.4" TFT Digital Oscilloscope Kit with Power Supply and BNC-Clip Cable Probe Q15001 (Assembled Finished Machine) - This cheap little device allows you to actually see when your system clips. Its pretty cool.

This is the bulk of everything audio related. I already had tons of speaker wire, distribution blocks, fuses etc.

Other extras for the boat:
Wise 8WP21-374 Adjustable Pedestal with Slide,Silver - This is the best mod I have made to the boat.
Garmin ECHOMAP UHD 63cv, Keyed Chartplotter with U.S. LakeVü g3 and GT24UHD-TM transducer
Custom build fishing platform and seat at the front of the boat.
Thrust Vectors - must have for a guy coming from an outboard
Full Seadek kit W/trailer traction mats
RTIC 45 with TEXAS flag cooler mat
BoatBuckle G2 Stainless Steel Retractable Transom Tie-Down (Black), 1 Pair
Stoltz bow roller
Custom built pole guides with LEDS
Triple battery setup. Two house and one start on Perko switch
Framed Stretch Mesh Net Pocket for Auto, RV, or Home Organization and Storage
EZ storage IP65 clear box's
Docking pole 3'-6' - must have at our crappy docks

Near future up grades:
Add trolling motor. Already have Minn Kota with spot lock, just need to get it installed
Add pole holder cup inserts at swim platform and front of boat
Second Kicker sub. Turns out I'm a bit of a bass fanatic. Who knew?
Move table mount to swim deck. Convert table pole to removable umbrella holder for additional shade while swimming.
Keel guard Black - learned that one the hard way...
Remove SX195 decals. - to me they take away from the clean lines of the boats hull.
If I'm feeling froggy, I might fab a dual swim up seat.
 

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Audio parts list from Amazon:
12V Moisture-Proof Fan 120mm 2-Pack High Speed 12 Volt DC 2Wire 3Pin Exhaust Cooling Fan 3000RPM
AC Infinity Black Ventilation Grille 18", for PC Computer AV Electronic Cabinets, Also mounts Three 120mm Fans
KICKER 46KMC4 Weather-Resistant Gauge-Style Media Center with Bluetooth- This head unit is AWESOME runs full volume with 0 distortion!
KICKER 46KRC12 Marine Remote Control Commander for The KMC2, KMC3, KMC4 & KMC5 - mounted on swim deck
KICKER TB 45CWTB102 10 Inch 800W Max 2 Ohm Enclosed Tube Reflex CompR Subwoofer
Kicker 45KM84L 8-Inch Marine Coaxial Boat Speakers, Black and White Grilles, Red LED Lights, 4-Ohm, 300 Max Watts, Pair
KICKER Black OEM Replacement Marine 6.5" 4 Ohm Coaxial Speaker Bundle - 4 Speakers
Kicker 46CK4 Car Audio 4 Gauge 2 Channel - Mono Amp Amplifier Install Kit CK4
Clarion XC2510 700W Peak Ultra Compact 5/4/3 Channel XC Series Micro Class D Marine Amplifier,SIlver

Additional things I bought that really helped with sound system:
Steve Meade Designs SMD DD-1+ and CC-1 Combo Pack - its expensive, but honestly I got so many conflicting answers on how to tune my system that I just pulled the trigger and got this set. Im tuning 4 different audio systems, so for me it was totally worth the expense.
AUKUYEE Updated 2.4" TFT Digital Oscilloscope Kit with Power Supply and BNC-Clip Cable Probe Q15001 (Assembled Finished Machine) - This cheap little device allows you to actually see when your system clips. Its pretty cool.

This is the bulk of everything audio related. I already had tons of speaker wire, distribution blocks, fuses etc.

Other extras for the boat:
Wise 8WP21-374 Adjustable Pedestal with Slide,Silver - This is the best mod I have made to the boat.
Garmin ECHOMAP UHD 63cv, Keyed Chartplotter with U.S. LakeVü g3 and GT24UHD-TM transducer
Custom build fishing platform and seat at the front of the boat.
Thrust Vectors - must have for a guy coming from an outboard
Full Seadek kit W/trailer traction mats
RTIC 45 with TEXAS flag cooler mat
BoatBuckle G2 Stainless Steel Retractable Transom Tie-Down (Black), 1 Pair
Stoltz bow roller
Custom built pole guides with LEDS
Triple battery setup. Two house and one start on Perko switch
Framed Stretch Mesh Net Pocket for Auto, RV, or Home Organization and Storage
EZ storage IP65 clear box's
Docking pole 3'-6' - must have at our crappy docks

Near future up grades:
Add trolling motor. Already have Minn Kota with spot lock, just need to get it installed
Add pole holder cup inserts at swim platform and front of boat
Second Kicker sub. Turns out I'm a bit of a bass fanatic. Who knew?
Move table mount to swim deck. Convert table pole to removable umbrella holder for additional shade while swimming.
Keel guard Black - learned that one the hard way...
Remove SX195 decals. - to me they take away from the clean lines of the boats hull.
If I'm feeling froggy, I might fab a dual swim up seat.
Lots of upgrades- would be good to create a separate build thread to showcase
 
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