2005 AR230 saga continues, now I have water in the oil

[itsdgm]

Alright. You've had a productive weekend!!! I'm really curious to see how this plays out. Thanks for the updates @Seadeals

 

[Jgorm]

Is it a salt water boat? I would have tig welded that. Jb is good stuff, but I'm not sure I would trust it on an engine block with the heat cycling involved.

 

[Seadeals]

Fresh water (except for one Charleston trip). I did not want to risk the heat stress of tig on a built engine. Yes, if you disassemble to the block half and preheat it. Anywhere near 550 degrees (JB weld spec) on the external surface of a water jacketed area is unlikely, so I am giving it a go to see how things hold up to the heat cycling. Time will tell but doing nothing was not an option for me. If it ever fails, I plan a new shortblock during an off season. I have nothing to lose so feel the approach is a good experiment.

 

[bronze_10]

great write up and pics.... shows your skill.. good luck!

 

[cybuch]

Nice job! Hoping it works out for the best!

 

[Seadeals]

Here is the final repair. I did some grinding with a small sanding drum on the dremel on the first coat to knock off any peaks and open up any small voids, then doubled up thickness on a second coat, repeated and then filled a couple tiny dimples with a final coat.




Angle down to fit it in. Back of engine twists to starboard aft with front near center of opening to clear front mount, then lower and twist back in. The key is also getting the leveler inside the aft lip of the opening. I increased the chain in the back for the install; but had I gone any longer the leveler would have been too tall to fit inside.

Bolted down! I had the boat hitched to the truck and did pull forward a few inches once I got the leveler inside the lip. I did this completely solo without any trouble so the winch and leveler were an excellent investment.

 

[cybuch]

Nice!!! Glad you got it back in and repaired. Looking forward to hearing it holds!

Thats a lot different than the AR230 setup. All those electronics are on the wall behind the motor and its a pain to get to the motor mounts.

 

[buckbuck]

I've got a case of garage envy, @Seadeals

 

[Seadeals]

Thanks. I REALLY enjoy my garage. 3 1/2 car with 8' doors and NO posts/beams anywhere. After a complete kitchen reno I realized the old cabinets (and fridge) fit perfectly in the garage.

I learned from the hoist install that the builder used 16" engineered joists the full length (back wall to garage doors). The joist specs actually indicate it does work with some margin to spare. In researching the loads for the hoist install I did learn about how dangerous engineered joists are for firefighters during a house fire. Once flames get inside the drywall, they fail catastrophically without warning (no sagging). Yikes!

As for an update, everything is connected back up and the engine started right up with no faults tonight. I should make it to the lake on the 13th. It should be uneventful as I expect the repair to last quite a while.

 

[Seadeals]

Also, since the floor was up, I removed the old foam around the fuel hatch perimeter, installed new and also insulated the fuel tank floor panel. The DB-4 walls is no longer at Home Depot, Lowes or Amazon, so I decided to just give duct insulation a try. I want to put something on the hatch while I have it off but we know there is now true winner for that. My foam is disintegrating in a few places.

 

[bronze_10]

@Seadeals .. how many bolts snapped off when u took up the fuel hatch?

 

[Seadeals]

Several years ago when I first took up the hatch, it was a bear and one head sheared off. Back then, I cleaned all of the holes up. Since then they all come out very easily with just my cordless drill.

 

[Seadeals]

Update: I got her out on the water this evening. I did a gradual warm-up of the engines to expose the new repair gradually to the heat of operation. Idled around for a while and then to a slow cruise around 6500. Started pulling my hair out with water seeming to spray all over the engine bay sidewall carpet and drops all over the starboard side floor.

The bad news is after a short cruise I was starting to accumulate a fair amount of water in the engine bay center compartment from the starboard side. The good news is it wasn't from the engine! After checking everything in the engine bay, I realized the starboard engine flush port cap was actually leaking (a lot above 6000 rpm). When cruising, the bow-up attitude caused the water to flow into the engine hatch channel and directly into the engine bay along the carpet, soaking everything and pooling in the bottom.

I tightened the fitting and the cap but it was still leaking like crazy (no visible damage), so I used a ziplock bag between the threads to seal it temporarily. That worked and everything inside stayed bone dry. Whew.

The repair (hot engine). All looks good after about three hours of constant running.

The pesky flush fitting that probably caused me to find the engine crack in the first place. (Thanks?)

Happy engines.

Lake Keowee the evening before Memorial Day weekend madness begins.

Jetboaters flag still looks new after countless hours of cruising! Get one if you don't have one!

I am going to buy new caps for the flush port(s)- p/n: 682-84385-01-00.

 

[tdonoughue]

Awesome! Congratulations! Been watching this intently and this is quite an achievement! Never thought it would last 10 minutes...

 

[buckbuck]

Good work @Seadeals We are hoping that fix lasts a boat lifetime.

 

[itsdgm]

That's awesome @Seadeals

 

[cybuch]

great work @Seadeals !!

 

[cybuch]

Just an update....been out on the lake for a few weekends now and all is good, new rebuild running great! I did the ribbon removal and installed riva spark arrestor filters and it is so responsive. I just removed the ribbons and didn't do anything to the intake.

 

[Scott griffith]

Don't have pics of what you did on the ribbon removal

 

[cybuch]

Here you go.

IMG_2415

• cybuch
• May 28, 2017

MR1 ribbon removal

IMG_2415

• cybuch
• May 28, 2017

MR1 ribbon removal