itsdgm
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2005 AR230 saga continues, now I have water in the oil
- Thread starter cybuch
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cybuch
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buckbuck
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Well if anything good has come of these events, putting you two together would result in 6 minute engine removals. Hoping you have trouble free years ahead of you.
mdwarchichoke
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Nothing but rain this today in DFW. How are your motor break in going. I went so slow with mine. I had it on the lake last time for almost 3.5 hours of run time. I love it, but I still have a little fear factor every time I see someone have an issue. Hope you got to the lake this weekend.
cybuch
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Well, break in went well! No issues so far.
cybuch
Jetboaters Captain
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Right! Thanks!
veedubtek
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Seadeals
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I found a crack in the same place but much smaller/sooner. I am continuing content from another post where it was originally discovered as this post relates more.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/complete-devastation-not-for-the-weak.11849/page-4#post-224687
I ran YDS tonight. A special thanks to @Andy S! 284.6 hours on the subject engine for reference. Only code on record was an overheat back at 161 hours. All other components checked "normal". I will run compressions next and fog before pulling the engine and attempting a case repair.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/complete-devastation-not-for-the-weak.11849/page-4#post-224687
I ran YDS tonight. A special thanks to @Andy S! 284.6 hours on the subject engine for reference. Only code on record was an overheat back at 161 hours. All other components checked "normal". I will run compressions next and fog before pulling the engine and attempting a case repair.
cybuch
Jetboaters Captain
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itsdgm
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Seadeals
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Thanks @itsdgm . I probably will give you a call. If we build upon each other's experience, no pain is worth more than one of us enduring. Today I wanted to give the engines thorough physicals before heading to the OR.
Warm ups with live YDS read of all parameters and some reasonable RPM bumps on the starboard while watching the crack for leak rate. Only one drop formed. I checked dry (no oil squirts) compressions on both.
Port (284.1 hours)
#1: 206 psi
#2: 220 psi
#3: 195 psi
#4: 192 psi
Starboard (286.4 hours)
#1: 191 psi
#2: 186 psi
#3: 185 psi
#4: 188 psi
I did not warm the port engine up as long as the starboard.
The warning lights I recently got on port were not saved (logged) but the live diagnostic told me my port no wake switch has an irregular signal. Now that I recall, both warnings on the last two outings were just after coming out of no wake (from the ramp and once under a bride. They cleared when restarting and never returned. So...no concerns on port engine from my perspective.
Also, starboard oil is clean (zero water) and compressions are good, so to me, it is worth trying to save and be as minimally invasive as possible with a repair scheme (while still getting all of the crack).
I haven't decided if I want to buy a VX110 as a rotable engine yet (and repair test-bed excitement); but I am leaning that way.
Warm ups with live YDS read of all parameters and some reasonable RPM bumps on the starboard while watching the crack for leak rate. Only one drop formed. I checked dry (no oil squirts) compressions on both.
Port (284.1 hours)
#1: 206 psi
#2: 220 psi
#3: 195 psi
#4: 192 psi
Starboard (286.4 hours)
#1: 191 psi
#2: 186 psi
#3: 185 psi
#4: 188 psi
I did not warm the port engine up as long as the starboard.
The warning lights I recently got on port were not saved (logged) but the live diagnostic told me my port no wake switch has an irregular signal. Now that I recall, both warnings on the last two outings were just after coming out of no wake (from the ramp and once under a bride. They cleared when restarting and never returned. So...no concerns on port engine from my perspective.
Also, starboard oil is clean (zero water) and compressions are good, so to me, it is worth trying to save and be as minimally invasive as possible with a repair scheme (while still getting all of the crack).
I haven't decided if I want to buy a VX110 as a rotable engine yet (and repair test-bed excitement); but I am leaning that way.
Seadeals
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I got an electric hoist and load leveler to help pull the engine. My garage ceiling is 9'7"; and the rear seat hump is at 5'7"; but the harbor freight hoist and leveler take up 29" of vertical so I decided to use the additional 16" of space above the ceiling to integrate a structural "box" with the joist system to allow strength and clearance over the hump. The structure is 4' long with a 1' section to lift the hoist up into (and out of) the box and a 3' section of "track" to position the hoist as needed. Seems like it will be a slick setup. Now to see how well it works! Next weekend...
mdwarchichoke
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Too cool. I like it.
Mine is an 09, so I believe they need more clearance as the back of the compartment comes up further. We just lifted it up and over once we had it out of the bottom. It is not bad coming out at all. I was slow unhooking all the electrical harnesses on purpose as I did not want to break any of the crazy locks and clips on the connections!
Mine is an 09, so I believe they need more clearance as the back of the compartment comes up further. We just lifted it up and over once we had it out of the bottom. It is not bad coming out at all. I was slow unhooking all the electrical harnesses on purpose as I did not want to break any of the crazy locks and clips on the connections!
cybuch
Jetboaters Captain
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Nice setup!!!
Seadeals
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Pulled the engine tonight. It took two and a half hours. Thanks to @itsdgm for great step-by-step instructions. Here is a quick photo play-by-play.
Hatch off.
For starboard side it helps to take the intake off first (move #8 up after #4 @itsdgm ).
Yep, fuel line disconnect is a little tricky to get loose. Don't force it.
Everything wrapped up and ready for extraction!
Slide her forward a bit to separate the coupling.
And "POOF" a very slow SX210!
Just hanging out.
Now the fun part begins!
Hatch off.
For starboard side it helps to take the intake off first (move #8 up after #4 @itsdgm ).
Yep, fuel line disconnect is a little tricky to get loose. Don't force it.
Everything wrapped up and ready for extraction!
Slide her forward a bit to separate the coupling.
And "POOF" a very slow SX210!
Just hanging out.
Now the fun part begins!
Attachments
tdonoughue
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Bet you can do a real oil change with it pulled--and get every drop!
Kewl pictures. Love it. Nicely done.
Kewl pictures. Love it. Nicely done.
itsdgm
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cybuch
Jetboaters Captain
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Nice!!! Great job!! Make sure to take pics of the repair to the block
Seadeals
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On the bench, I could get a really good look at the crack and decided the access to repair was easy enough to avoid any other disturbance and stress from removing the exhaust manifold. Key objectives are thorough cleaning, crack evaluation and investigation (grinding) prior to an epoxy repair.
I caught this early. The crack is just to the left of the two pieces of casting flash-very small. Lighting is everything. As I cleaned it up, it is nearly impossible to see.
I wanted to do dye penetrant (fun); but don't have any on hand and need to keep this moving. I decided to grind it out a bit to see if it gets more pronounced deeper in. I was considering stop-drilling; but it was so small I felt a 1/16 bit through (smallest on hand) would do more harm than good.
The width of that grind is 1/16". The crack is near the top of the grind.
Here it is after more grinding (deeper and wider). The crack is not visible. Since I decided not to stop-drill my approach was to create a nice "V" around the crack to give the JB Weld more contact surface area around the crack and provide more repair material in the stress area.
Taken through a mirror (reversed) this shows the "rough-up" prep of the epoxy area (from the hose to the probe). Forced the JB into the crack area with a syringe. I also used a solvent brush to apply then used strips of wax paper to get a more even application. I plan to work on the finish after curing using a mini sanding disk and wire wheel on Dremel to remove flash and prep for application of a second coat to build up the desired thickness.
I caught this early. The crack is just to the left of the two pieces of casting flash-very small. Lighting is everything. As I cleaned it up, it is nearly impossible to see.
I wanted to do dye penetrant (fun); but don't have any on hand and need to keep this moving. I decided to grind it out a bit to see if it gets more pronounced deeper in. I was considering stop-drilling; but it was so small I felt a 1/16 bit through (smallest on hand) would do more harm than good.
The width of that grind is 1/16". The crack is near the top of the grind.
Here it is after more grinding (deeper and wider). The crack is not visible. Since I decided not to stop-drill my approach was to create a nice "V" around the crack to give the JB Weld more contact surface area around the crack and provide more repair material in the stress area.
Taken through a mirror (reversed) this shows the "rough-up" prep of the epoxy area (from the hose to the probe). Forced the JB into the crack area with a syringe. I also used a solvent brush to apply then used strips of wax paper to get a more even application. I plan to work on the finish after curing using a mini sanding disk and wire wheel on Dremel to remove flash and prep for application of a second coat to build up the desired thickness.