2015 242 LS SeaDek installation

[Brad Meeuwse]

billy duncan, is the picture you posted above of the seadek in teak color? if not, what is that color? im not sold on the very light color of seadek over black along with the tan accents of the seats. yours looks good i think.

 

[Billy Duncan]

billy duncan, is the picture you posted above of the seadek in teak color? if not, what is that color? im not sold on the very light color of seadek over black along with the tan accents of the seats. yours looks good i think.

The color I installed is “Terra over Black”. It is a much better match for the interior of my boat. You can also call or email JetBoatPilot.com and they will send you some samples of different colors so you can see the patterns and see which color you like.

 

[Randy Fenton]

View attachment 70551
It's a job!!! I would almost say pay the $$$ but I'm a gluten for punishment and like to things myself. I just recently removed all of mine and put down SeaDek. GooOff /Goo Gone worked the best for me... and a lot of it!

Not what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the info. Keep you guys posted. Also, you did a great job. I am going with teak over black. We have the same seats. I am keeping the carpet, so not as much work for me. I hope.

 

[Scottie]

Any tips on removing the factory swim deck mat? The boat shop I go to quoted me about 8 hours to remove it at $125 per hr. Lol. Looks like a project.

I did mine just a couple of months ago. The existing hydroturf on the swimdeck was AWFUL to remove. I literally tried everything. What finally worked was a smooth scraper blade on an oscillating tool, like a Dremel multi-max. You can find the scraper blades to fit on Amazon. You want a flexible one. Add a heatgun, and it comes up rather easily. It was amazing to see it work once we had the right solution. Do yourself a favor and start with that.

 

[Scottie]

The result is worth it.

 

[AZ Native]

I just finished installing the Sea Deck on the platform today. I still need to do the cockpit pieces, but I'm leaving the carpet for now. This has the brown reveal. Mica over Chocolate. Looks great with the 2013 interior color scheme. Late afternoon shade doesn’t show the color very well.
Before:

After:

 

[Randy Fenton]

That looks great. Not looking forward to removing the old foam. I see you have a scrapper. Did you use mineral spirits and acetone to remove the glue?

 

[Randy Fenton]

I did mine just a couple of months ago. The existing hydroturf on the swimdeck was AWFUL to remove. I literally tried everything. What finally worked was a smooth scraper blade on an oscillating tool, like a Dremel multi-max. You can find the scraper blades to fit on Amazon. You want a flexible one. Add a heatgun, and it comes up rather easily. It was amazing to see it work once we had the right solution. Do yourself a favor and start with that.

Can you send a pic of the tool and blade you used? Can you over use the heat gun? Or the more heat the better?
Thanks

 

[Scottie]

For me acetone was of no help at all. I did use some goo gone, and it did make it a little easier, but until I started using the oscillating tool, I was going nowhere. With the flexible blade, I was able to get down to clean white fiberglass, removing not only the turf but the adhesive residue as well. Obviously that's not really required, but I felt like my new expensive seadek would adhere better to a fresh surface. As far as heat goes, I was careful with it. I'm sure there's a "too much", but I never had any trouble as far as the fiberglass goes. What CAN happen is overheating the hydroturf when you're pulling it away. If you do that, the hydroturf will just tear and you'll have to start over. That not a big deal, but once you get going on a piece, it gets easier the more you remove, so keeping it intact as long as possible seems to help.What I did was get a corner started, and then apply heat to the backside of the hydroturf as I was pulling upwards with one hand and using the oscillator on the edge that meets the fibergalss. Slow and steady. Having a helper to either pull the hyrdroturf or apply the heat was VERY helpful. As far as the oscillator goes, you can play with the speed and angle of the tool to see what works best. Obviously you want a shallow angle on the blade so you won't be damaging the fiberglass underneath. The blade is flexible though, so you really have to be digging to cause a problem. Also, any minor scuffs or anything will be covered by the new seadek anyway, so just pay extra attention to the edges where a mistake might be exposed. Links below for the blade I used. Once you get the old stuff removed, make sure you rinse the deck for a while if you use any acetone/goo gone etc. You don't want that stuff attacking your new seadek.

This is the one that worked best for me. I have a dremel oscillating tool and when I got this blade I realized it actually didn't fit. I had to snip a channel in the back of it before it would slide on my tool, but once I did that it was fine. You can see the difference compared to the blade below, where the back is open. Takes 5 seconds to remedy if needed, but just be aware of it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0146WQ6RS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered these as well, which fit directly on my dremel. They worked fine too, but the wider blade in the link above was easier/faster.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRMZV9G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will probably see ridgid scrapers also instead of flexible. I ordered one of those and you definitely want to stay away from that. Much to aggressive on the fiberglass.

 

[Randy Fenton]

For me acetone was of no help at all. I did use some goo gone, and it did make it a little easier, but until I started using the oscillating tool, I was going nowhere. With the flexible blade, I was able to get down to clean white fiberglass, removing not only the turf but the adhesive residue as well. Obviously that's not really required, but I felt like my new expensive seadek would adhere better to a fresh surface. As far as heat goes, I was careful with it. I'm sure there's a "too much", but I never had any trouble as far as the fiberglass goes. What CAN happen is overheating the hydroturf when you're pulling it away. If you do that, the hydroturf will just tear and you'll have to start over. That not a big deal, but once you get going on a piece, it gets easier the more you remove, so keeping it intact as long as possible seems to help.What I did was get a corner started, and then apply heat to the backside of the hydroturf as I was pulling upwards with one hand and using the oscillator on the edge that meets the fibergalss. Slow and steady. Having a helper to either pull the hyrdroturf or apply the heat was VERY helpful. As far as the oscillator goes, you can play with the speed and angle of the tool to see what works best. Obviously you want a shallow angle on the blade so you won't be damaging the fiberglass underneath. The blade is flexible though, so you really have to be digging to cause a problem. Also, any minor scuffs or anything will be covered by the new seadek anyway, so just pay extra attention to the edges where a mistake might be exposed. Links below for the blade I used. Once you get the old stuff removed, make sure you rinse the deck for a while if you use any acetone/goo gone etc. You don't want that stuff attacking your new seadek.

This is the one that worked best for me. I have a dremel oscillating tool and when I got this blade I realized it actually didn't fit. I had to snip a channel in the back of it before it would slide on my tool, but once I did that it was fine. You can see the difference compared to the blade below, where the back is open. Takes 5 seconds to remedy if needed, but just be aware of it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0146WQ6RS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered these as well, which fit directly on my dremel. They worked fine too, but the wider blade in the link above was easier/faster.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRMZV9G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will probably see ridgid scrapers also instead of flexible. I ordered one of those and you definitely want to stay away from that. Much to aggressive on the fiberglass.

Great info. Thank you for your time helping me out. Will order some blades today.

 

[Scottie]

Good deal. I've used this forum so much, so I'm happy to offer a tip if I can. Keep us posted and good luck.

 

[AZ Native]

That looks great. Not looking forward to removing the old foam. I see you have a scrapper. Did you use mineral spirits and acetone to remove the glue?

Acetone was no help. Paint thinner was better, but nothing worked better than Rapid Remover. Still it took several applications and scraping sessions. Rubber wheel on a drill is recommended. I might try that on the cockpit sections today. You can see how well the Rapid Remover worked on the right side compared to paint thinner on the left. I buy it on Amazon. It’s oil based so be sure to clean the surface with mild soap and water before applying your new Sea Deck.

 

[AZ Native]

Randy I learned some good news today when taking the old Hydro Turf off the cockpit and bow. It actually peals up easier than the stern deck, especially if it’s applied to a surface with the traction dots in the gelcoat. Still a lot of work to clean up the glue, but as you can see below it came off nicely. I really love the look of the Sea Deck in Mica over Chocolate with this interior. Better sunlight in the pic below highlights the color. Now that I’m done I don’t want to do it again, but Randy you can do it. And I know for a fact that Texan’s never give up.

 

[Sef123123]

How much it cost you and were did you buy it??

 

[AZ Native]

www.jetboatpilot.com is the preferred source for Sea Deck. Will’s company has created very accurate templates for each year and model. Although the catalog on their website has a lot of options and pricing, I suggest you call them to get recommendations on what colors and patterns work best with you model, color and trim. They suggested a lighter color for me which is a lot cooler on the feet in the Arizona sun. With grandkids they also recommended the raised dot pattern which is easier to clean than the faux teak. Although they have kits for the deck and hull they also sell individual pieces allowing you to customize your install. I’m getting ready to buy optional pieces for the rear deck and bow to extend the coverage above the engine compartment and the bow locker.

BTW, I put a Hydro Turf kit on my 2005 AR230. Less money and looked good, but doesn’t hold a candle to Sea Deck.

 

[Randy Fenton]

Randy I learned some good news today when taking the old Hydro Turf off the cockpit and bow. It actually peals up easier than the stern deck, especially if it’s applied to a surface with the traction dots in the gelcoat. Still a lot of work to clean up the glue, but as you can see below it came off nicely. I really love the look of the Sea Deck in Mica over Chocolate with this interior. Better sunlight in the pic below highlights the color. Now that I’m done I don’t want to do it again, but Randy you can do it. And I know for a fact that Texan’s never give up.

View attachment 70947 View attachment 70949 View attachment 70950 View attachment 70951

It looks awesome. I have the same color scheme but ordered the mocha over black. Will send pics when done. Just received a call that my boat is ready (yearly tube up), so the fun will begin next week. Speaking of the yearly tune up- that will be my next do it yourself project next season. $750 for an oil change and spark plugs.

 

[Randy Fenton]

I want to thank AZ Native- you really helped me get started on this project.

 

[Randy Fenton]

Everything you need to get this done.

 

[Scottie]

Nice job. Looks great.

 

[Randy Fenton]

Nice job. Looks great.

Thank you. It is worth the effort.