210 FSH - Lectrotab Trim Tabs

[swatski]

Do you remember about how thick the fiberglass was where you mounted your trim tabs ? Any wood behind it ?

Yamaha new hulls are all FRP, zero wood, about 1/4" thick... Including transom.

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[HABANEROTE]

I PM'd my invoice to you.

Can you PM that to me please? I love your videos btw... you should do one about the tabs...Thank you!

 

[Bubblehead]

@Foobar were your tabs custom designed for the boat?

 

[Foobar]

@Foobar were your tabs custom designed for the boat?

Yes. Russ at Lectrotab can hook you up. Now that they have built once, he can easily get a set to you.

 

[Lowstar]

Yamaha new hulls are all FRP, zero wood, about 1/4" thick... Including transom.

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Thanks swatski, do you ever worry about the strength of the 1/4” fiberglass-plastic and all the force put on the tabs ?, I think I worry too much. I’m not liking this getting old stuff.

 

[swatski]

Thanks swatski, do you ever worry about the strength of the 1/4” fiberglass-plastic and all the force put on the tabs ?, I think I worry too much. I’m not liking this getting old stuff.

Yamaha FRP is hard and durable, albeit when it breaks, it's like an egg shell... not pretty.
I had some concerns/doubts initially but have now been running with my large tabs for almost two years, including the 2017 Bimini run in very rough water, with not issues what-so-ever.

and I love the fact there is no wood in these boats anymore! With nothing to rot.

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[RPATX]

Foobar..thanks for your videos. Very helpful.
I've only had my 210 fsh for a week and used it twice but think trim tabs would be a great addition as I am pulling kiddos in tubes wake boards etc. and I would like some assistance on planning.
Would you mind sending me your lectrotab set up as well? Or would you recommend just calling them?
Thanks

 

[Foobar]

Foobar..thanks for your videos. Very helpful.
I've only had my 210 fsh for a week and used it twice but think trim tabs would be a great addition as I am pulling kiddos in tubes wake boards etc. and I would like some assistance on planning.
Would you mind sending me your lectrotab set up as well? Or would you recommend just calling them?
Thanks

I sent you a copy of my invoice. I suggest calling and speaking to Russ.

 

[Ron Zimmerman]

@Foobar, was going to install my Raymarine Dragonfly transducer prior to the trim tab install. Primarily, because the tabs haven’t been delivered yet and I’m desperate in miserable Missouri to do anything. However, don’t see much room down there with the trim tab placement. Any ideas?

 

[Foobar]

Search the forums. Most guys have it more near the center anyway. There is room. I went with a transducer you mount through the hull. (Round hole.)

 

[Skroggy66]

@Foobar my Tabs just shipped, I am excited to get them on the boat. I have waited to install the transducer so I am doing them both at the same time. They should be here the end of next week. Get a few shots in me before I start drilling holes in my brand new boat.... Let the good times begin.

 

[Stevenpigsooie]

@Foobar my Tabs just shipped, I am excited to get them on the boat. I have waited to install the transducer so I am doing them both at the same time. They should be here the end of next week. Get a few shots in me before I start drilling holes in my brand new boat.... Let the good times begin.

I had knots in my stomach before drilling the first hole. Must have measured 10 times, then made a template, then explained the whole process to my wife explaining each step to see if she detected any errors. Use lots of 5200 in each hole and coat the backside of the mounting plate. Good luck!

 

[SwatYacht]

I'm in the Tampa area, own a 2018 Yamaha FSH Sport. What's my best direction for getting those trim tabs and getting them installed?

 

[Ron Zimmerman]

@Foobar has some great pics and advice on the install. Got mine done, +- 20 holes later and love them. Measure/measure/measure.

I also installed my transducer at the same time. Made for some efficient cable pulling and got all those stressful holes drilled at once.
I also have some pics of the locations for both trim tabs and transducer if needed

 

[Foobar]

I had knots in my stomach before drilling the first hole. Must have measured 10 times, then made a template, then explained the whole process to my wife explaining each step to see if she detected any errors. Use lots of 5200 in each hole and coat the backside of the mounting plate. Good luck!

For the love of ... don't use 5200. Use 4000.

 

[zipper]

For the love of ... don't use 5200. Use 4000.

5200 is not as scary if you have a can of this. It turns it to a gum that is easily scraped off. It may take several applications, but it works. I have not tried to pull my trim tabs off with it yet and I hope I never need to.

 

[swatski]

For the love of ... don't use 5200. Use 4000.

Why?
5200 is the way to go for any permanent through hull install. Especially in the super thin FRP Yamaha hulls.

Will 4300 do? Of course. Any marine sealant can work there. The 5200 is just the best, that we know off.
(It keeps forever in a freezer, too!)

And yes, you can remove a screw embedded in 5200 from a new Yamaha hull or transom, about 1/4” thick.

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[Stevenpigsooie]

For the love of ... don't use 5200. Use 4000.

I disagree. It’s a permanent install below the water line. 5200 is better suited for high stress and vibrations.

 

[Foobar]

I disagree. It’s a permanent install below the water line. 5200 is better suited for high stress and vibrations.

Anything installed with screws is not a permanent install. You may need to replace or remove one (or both) for some reason in the future. You are using the product to seal the holes, not hold the tabs on the boat. Both are designed for use below the waterline. I have seen 5200 damage gel coat and fiberglass during removal. If you want to use it on your own boat, it's your boat. However, 5200 should not be recommended as a sealant to someone that doesn't know any better (people seeking advice here) because it can cause serious damage when removed.

4000 is also rated as a better sealant between metal and fiberglass by 3M. It also maintains better flexibility (water proof properties) while 5200 becomes rock hard and can more easily produce fissures that leak. Polyether (4000) also has very good resistance to oils and acids where 5200 has very poor resistance. 4000 is also rated as suitable for more materials such as glass and Lexan where 5200 is not recommended at all. Bottom line is if you are using the product as a sealant, you should use 4000. If you need to use the product as a bond to carry weight without any other mounting mechanisms, then you might consider the 5200. However, in many cases (depending on the materials) the 4000 still provides a better bond and better resistance against deterioration.

One last item to point out: the 4000 is better suited for vibration as it is not as brittle as the 5200.

Chart: How to Select Sealants and Caulk | West Marine

 

[swatski]

Anything installed with screws is not a permanent install. You may need to replace or remove one (or both) for some reason in the future. You are using the product to seal the holes, not hold the tabs on the boat. Both are designed for use below the waterline. I have seen 5200 damage gel coat and fiberglass during removal. If you want to use it on your own boat, it's your boat. However, 5200 should not be recommended as a sealant to someone that doesn't know any better (people seeking advice here) because it can cause serious damage when removed.

4000 is also rated as a better sealant between metal and fiberglass by 3M. It also maintains better flexibility (water proof properties) while 5200 becomes rock hard and can more easily produce fissures that leak. Polyether (4000) also has very good resistance to oils and acids where 5200 has very poor resistance. 4000 is also rated as suitable for more materials such as glass and Lexan where 5200 is not recommended at all. Bottom line is if you are using the product as a sealant, you should use 4000. If you need to use the product as a bond to carry weight without any other mounting mechanisms, then you might consider the 5200. However, in many cases (depending on the materials) the 4000 still provides a better bond and better resistance against deterioration.

One last item to point out: the 4000 is better suited for vibration as it is not as brittle as the 5200.

Chart: How to Select Sealants and Caulk | West Marine

Bull shit. 5200 is stronger and perfectly well suited for under waterline permanent install - such as embedding screws that hold trim tabs in thin FRP Yamaha transom.
You want holding power there not just sealant. There is virtually no way to through bolt or enforce that thin hull in those places - without cutting access ports.

The only problem with using 5200 in this particular application is getting it on all your tools and clothing, lol. Oh, and it will yellow over time especially of exposed to sunlight.

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