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3M 4000, 4200, or 5200 for filling carpet snap screw holes?

Mainah

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I had full Seadek installed before I even set foot in my boat. The dealer left a few snaps and a couple have turned out to be toe stubbers so I need to remove them. I suppose that 3m 4000, 4200, 5200, or life caulk could all be used to fill the screw holes. I also suppose that there may be varying opinions on what to use as well. I don't have a ton of room for finish work around the seadek and a very close color match is good enough for me. I don't want to turn filling in 3 or 4 small holes into a multi hour time consuming process as this is not the Queen Mary II. I also don't want to do something that will deteriorate or discolor overtime so I am even open to epoxy and spectrum paste. I am all set will how how to use each product but am looking for options on which one and why.

What have others done out there and why? What are the pros and cons for each product for this specific purpose?
 

David Analog

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Marine-Tex.
 

JDSCHMOO

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I went to Lowes and got tiny plastic plugs from their specialty hardware section. Quick, easy, effective, and blend in. I don't even notice them now. Don't have any pics, but I'll get some and post em.
 

Gym

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I used 4200 to fill mine when I did my SeaDek. This is in of the few applications I would use 5200 if that's what I had on hand as reusing the holes would be a simple matter of drilling but I don't think most current owners would go from SeaDek back to carpet.
 

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I honestly don't think it matters. It isn't something structural, or that needs to be water tight, etc.
 

KXCam22

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They have different cure times. I think 5200 is 7 days while 4200 is 24 hours. Makes a difference when you plan to do the work with respect to when you want to use the boat next. Cam.
 

ncnmra

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Do holes in fiberglass boats need to be water tight??????
Huh? I suggested that it doesn't really matter for the application of filling in the snap holes. They don't need to be water tight, and its more for cosmetic reasons I'd say.
 

swatski

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I used 5200. It is actually a polyurethane sealant, not silicone. It is permanent, but tends to discolor and gets yellowish over time. It is also expensive and once opened, needs to be used within 48 hrs or so.
Unless, of course, you store it in a freezer! (a well known trick of the hull truth guys)

The yellowing 5200 sealant looks kind of bad ovetime as SeaDek sets do not actually cover many of the snap holes remaining after carpet removal; next time I would go with something like Marine-Tex, as @David Analog suggested. I should had thought of it.
 
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swatski

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I honestly don't think it matters. It isn't something structural, or that needs to be water tight, etc.
I am pretty sure that anyone who has ever fixed an older boat with a soggy deck or transom would think waterproofing holes in the deck is important. Critical - long term.
 

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You guys are so smart!
 

Mainah

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A white two part epoxy like marine tex it is then. @swatski post was the deciding factor for me in that he did it with 5200 but if had it to do over it would be with something like marine tex. I find these types of posts very helpful. In my case I was leaning the 5200 way until I read that.

@David Analog is there anything you don't know? Rhetorical but geez from fiberglass to batteries, to the man for all things audio you are a great resource for this site.
 

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I get the sarcasm. I was a little harsh, I'm just reflecting my own frustration with prior history
I concede, I took it a little brash, but in retrospect concur.

Many of the holes are in access panels which get water ingress either way. However, I do acknowledge the argument of fiberglass swelling. Counter that; if the SeaDek is applied correctly, there shouldn't be much contact with water. On my boat at least, the SeaDek completely covered all snap holes.

EDIT: FWIW; I did use 3m 4200. I dislike working with that stuff though; it is super thick, it doesn't come out of the nozzle very well and I found I had a hard time getting it to stick to the flooring with the small dap. I tried to push it in using a plastic trowel, but it seemed to be more difficult than it should have been.
 
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Murf'n'surf

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If you use 4200/5200 you'll need to put the tube over the hole (actually touching the gel coat) and pump it INTO the hole a little and then with the flick of a wrist pull out and over at the same time. Done! Use a little acetone on your finger to tool it to your liking.

I'm not sure how easy Marine Tex will be on such a small hole without applying it to a larger circumference.
 

Mainah

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I have ordered the soft stuff www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014419V0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My plan is to mix it and then put it into a disposable wood working glue syringe for application. Hopefully I can apply enough pressure on the syringe for it to come out. If needed I will carefully drill out the gel coat to ensure a tight seal around the end of the syringe so it really fills the hole.
 

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I concede, I took it a little brash, but in retrospect concur.

Many of the holes are in access panels which get water ingress either way. However, I do acknowledge the argument of fiberglass swelling. Counter that; if the SeaDek is applied correctly, there shouldn't be much contact with water. On my boat at least, the SeaDek completely covered all snap holes.

EDIT: FWIW; I did use 3m 4200. I dislike working with that stuff though; it is super thick, it doesn't come out of the nozzle very well and I found I had a hard time getting it to stick to the flooring with the small dap. I tried to push it in using a plastic trowel, but it seemed to be more difficult than it should have been.
Maybe it was old or previously opened? When fresh, these sealants are almost runny, and impossible to keep off your clothes.
 

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A white two part epoxy like marine tex it is then. @swatski post was the deciding factor for me in that he did it with 5200 but if had it to do over it would be with something like marine tex. I find these types of posts very helpful. In my case I was leaning the 5200 way until I read that.

@David Analog is there anything you don't know? Rhetorical but geez from fiberglass to batteries, to the man for all things audio you are a great resource for this site.
Well, if I don't know it then I simply make something up on the fly.

Here's a technique with the marine-tex to avoid sanding that produces a nice level finish. Fill the hole. As the epoxy just begins to gel but before its cured, skim the surface, almost horizontal to the surface, with a brand new razor blade.
 

Mainah

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@David Analog do you think this will work to fill the hole? I get that I will have to finish the top of it and I will try your technique. Never used the marine tex but since I know that both wood glue and grease will come out of the wood working glue syringe I figure the epoxy should be able to as well. Also should help keep things clean as opposed to using other topical application methods.

I have ordered the soft stuff www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014419V0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My plan is to mix it and then put it into a disposable wood working glue syringe for application. Hopefully I can apply enough pressure on the syringe for it to come out. If needed I will carefully drill out the gel coat to ensure a tight seal around the end of the syringe so it really fills the hole.
 

Jim Robeson

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They have different cure times. I think 5200 is 7 days while 4200 is 24 hours. Makes a difference when you plan to do the work with respect to when you want to use the boat next. Cam.
5200 will cure to the touch in 36 to 48 hours and fully cured in 7 days. And it will yellow over time.
 

Jim Robeson

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Also, for everyone's knowledge, look at the lot number of any of our (3M) sealants. If you have something that starts with a "6" that was made this year. Example: 6202AA would mean that product was made on the 202nd day of this year. The letters don't mean anything. So, if you go into a store and pick up one of our products and see something that starts with a "4" put it back because our marine sealants only have a 2 year shelf life.
 
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