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3M 4000, 4200, or 5200 for filling carpet snap screw holes?

David Analog

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@David Analog do you think this will work to fill the hole? I get that I will have to finish the top of it and I will try your technique. Never used the marine tex but since I know that both wood glue and grease will come out of the wood working glue syringe I figure the epoxy should be able to as well. Also should help keep things clean as opposed to using other topical application methods.
I've really given you my limited experience with this subject. I've used epoxies that I colored by mixing in enamel model paint to fix chips in ceramic tiles. You cannot find the original flaws and the patches have held up in high traffic areas for the long term. And I've used marine-tex on boats, especially in sealing the layers of fiberglass plies from the interior of a thru-hull transducer hole.
Just to be clear, the razor technique has the cut edge and blade running almost flat against and parallel along the boat surface. Definitely not with the blade at 90 degrees. The secret is getting to the epoxy at the early stages of curing. You can do a little trial and error elsewhere to perfect the technique.
A very mild solvent would be good to clean things up in advance.
I've used all the great 3M products. Silicone sealer. Underwater caulk (that is intended to remain somewhat compliant). Permanent 5200. I don't think these products are right for the application. I've also experienced UV and heat discoloration plus shrinking.
 

Murf'n'surf

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I'm definatly going to try that……………………….;):p:D.
What....you're not gonna tool it with your finger? That's the best part.
 

MrMoose

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Maybe it was old or previously opened? When fresh, these sealants are almost runny, and impossible to keep off your clothes.
I'm wearing blue shorts right now, with 3 month old 5200 on them... White as the day that it dropped on them.
 

tdonoughue

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It only stays white on clothing.
 

Murf'n'surf

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UV rays and some cleaners will accelerate the yellowing. Its usually no big deal because it's a slow process and the 5200 is generally redone years down the line.
 

Noko

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Small tube of white silicon. And then as someone said, be a tool and use your finger. :)
 

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Maybe it was old or previously opened? When fresh, these sealants are almost runny, and impossible to keep off your clothes.
It certainly wasn't runny. It was the consistency of toothpaste, or even thicker. I couldn't get it through the nozzle (smaller 1st hole size), I had to squeeze the tube so hard that it ended up popping the entire nozzle off.

It was a brand new tube (twice). The first time was when I was doing my scupper, second time was when doing the carpet holes. That stuff is not cheap (about $16 CAD around these parts), and I wish they made a smaller tube considering it basically is a one-time use. Arguably, I didn't check the date, maybe Canada gets the expired surplus from the US or something.

Based on my experiences, I wouldn't recommend 4200. I've read good things about Life-Calk which I will likely use for any future applications.
 

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It certainly wasn't runny. It was the consistency of toothpaste, or even thicker. I couldn't get it through the nozzle (smaller 1st hole size), I had to squeeze the tube so hard that it ended up popping the entire nozzle off.

It was a brand new tube (twice). The first time was when I was doing my scupper, second time was when doing the carpet holes. That stuff is not cheap (about $16 CAD around these parts), and I wish they made a smaller tube considering it basically is a one-time use. Arguably, I didn't check the date, maybe Canada gets the expired surplus from the US or something.

Based on my experiences, I wouldn't recommend 4200. I've read good things about Life-Calk which I will likely use for any future applications.
There is a very good chance that you purchased an old lot of material or you could have had a tube that has been exposed to excessive heat. Heat will accelerate the cure cycle on these products. The 4200(fast cure) is a little thicker than the 5200(slow cure) and shouldn't be runny at all.
 

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There is a very good chance that you purchased an old lot of material or you could have had a tube that has been exposed to excessive heat. Heat will accelerate the cure cycle on these products. The 4200(fast cure) is a little thicker than the 5200(slow cure) and shouldn't be runny at all.
So it should or should NOT be "runny"? Should I be able to get it through the first notch size hole in the nozzle?

I have purchased it twice, about 1.5 years apart, and used it within 3 days of purchase. I still have the tube at home, and will check the lot date.
 

Zeus2013

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I used 4200 as it stays flexible....just in case...
 

Jim Robeson

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So it should or should NOT be "runny"? Should I be able to get it through the first notch size hole in the nozzle?

I have purchased it twice, about 1.5 years apart, and used it within 3 days of purchase. I still have the tube at home, and will check the lot date.
4200 isn't supposed to be runny. When we caulk out this product, during testing, we use a 1/4" opening at 50 psi. We will get results from 225 to 500 grams a minute and a flow test of usually 0 to 1.0 inches in 5 minutes. Compare that to the 5200 which will caulk out at 600 to 900 grams a minute with a flow test of 1.5 to 3.5 inches in 5 minutes.

That was probably more than you wanted but in my opinion 4200 isn't runny. Now, as far as the the first notch on the nozzle, I can't comment on that because I haven't tested that product that way before. But, I would think that if it is fairly fresh material and it hasn't been exposed to too much heat I would think that you should be able to.
 

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Okay - this makes sense, thank you @Jim Robeson. Now that I think of it I have not used 4200 in a long time, use 5200 rather and that thing (5200 - when fresh) is definitely what I would call runny. It magically ends up everywhere you do not want it, and is impossible to keep off of your clothes and everything else around.
Fresh 5200 oozes, seeps, and spreads, hard to control. It's awful. But that is why it's so good at sealing fiberglass holes.

--
 

ncnmra

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4200 isn't supposed to be runny. When we caulk out this product, during testing, we use a 1/4" opening at 50 psi. We will get results from 225 to 500 grams a minute and a flow test of usually 0 to 1.0 inches in 5 minutes. Compare that to the 5200 which will caulk out at 600 to 900 grams a minute with a flow test of 1.5 to 3.5 inches in 5 minutes.

That was probably more than you wanted but in my opinion 4200 isn't runny. Now, as far as the the first notch on the nozzle, I can't comment on that because I haven't tested that product that way before. But, I would think that if it is fairly fresh material and it hasn't been exposed to too much heat I would think that you should be able to.
That is good info indeed. I remember when I did my scupper, it was a b--ch to squeeze out of the tube. I'm using just the metal tube, and not any sort of caulking gun though. Again; it would be awesome if you guys made smaller tubes, like the little mini travel toothpaste kind. I realize its a business decision, but I hate throwing away a 95% full tube of the stuff, its just needless landfill waste.
 

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That is good info indeed. I remember when I did my scupper, it was a b--ch to squeeze out of the tube. I'm using just the metal tube, and not any sort of caulking gun though. Again; it would be awesome if you guys made smaller tubes, like the little mini travel toothpaste kind. I realize its a business decision, but I hate throwing away a 95% full tube of the stuff, its just needless landfill waste.
They do. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-White/dp/B01D893GGY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469199385&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+marine+sealant
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=3m+marine+sealant

We don't test from those tubes just the cartridges.
 

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@Mainah what did you think of the marine tex. Please update us with how it worked for you. I'm getting ready to do Seadek in the whole boat and want to know if I should use marine tex or 5200. I am worried about the 5200 yellowing over time so I'm thinking maybe 5200 for all the snaps that will be covered by the Seadek and marine Tex for the ones that will not be covered. Any recommendations?
 

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@Mainah what did you think of the marine tex. Please update us with how it worked for you. I'm getting ready to do Seadek in the whole boat and want to know if I should use marine tex or 5200. I am worried about the 5200 yellowing over time so I'm thinking maybe 5200 for all the snaps that will be covered by the Seadek and marine Tex for the ones that will not be covered. Any recommendations?
Both products would work, don't worry about yellowing as its minimal. Application of 4200 or 5200 will be the easiest. Press the tube onto the gelcoat hole and squeeze a bit INTO the hole. A slight slide and lift maneuver will leave it nearly perfect. Dab your fingertip in acetone and tool the adhesive to a final finish of your liking.
 

Sarconen10

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Both products would work, don't worry about yellowing as its minimal. Application of 4200 or 5200 will be the easiest. Press the tube onto the gelcoat hole and squeeze a bit INTO the hole. A slight slide and lift maneuver will leave it nearly perfect. Dab your fingertip in acetone and tool the adhesive to a final finish of your liking.

How much will I use if I'm removing all of the cockpit snaps? Will a 3oz tube of 5200 be enough?
 

Murf'n'surf

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How much will I use if I'm removing all of the cockpit snaps? Will a 3oz tube of 5200 be enough?
Yes, that will be more than enough.
 
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