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Yes grounding to the battery is the proper way to wire it.
Depends on your usage...if you don't crank it while floating, then you don't need much to run the amps. The guys who install a monster system and 3-4 batteries are blasting tunes for hours. We generally don't do that...when floating it's usually at background levels so we can talk and gets turned up occasionally. When cruising we have it turned up too but the engines are running to keep the batteries charged.
All true statements!! I only have 6 6.5s and a 10 inch sub. 2 amps (one 450w and one 1800w). I do like to turn it up a little while floating, but no more than 3-4 hours max. I will probably be fine, if it's fucks my batteries up I will just get some group 27s or something. I won't get stranded since my start battery will not be in use while floating. I'll find out next year
your close to what I have not sure about quality as im not an audiophile... cabin is 6 x 6.5's kickers and a 10" kicker sub on a 8 channel (6+ 2 bridged for the sub ) 3000W amp and shortly I'll come out of the head with another line to a 2 x 200w to power the 2 new to me tower 6.5 kicker cans... my house batteries are a pair of LiFePO4 100ah ampere time batteries and I have yet to put a dent in them running for an 8 hour day... at listening volume... I like class D amps...
for real audio on the water I use a yamaha 3000W Inverter genset and 2x 3000w B1500XP Behringer eurolive subs and 4 x 1500w B615D eurolive mains running through a 14ch Peavy unpowered board being careful not to hurt anyone
I didn’t do a good job capturing everything, but another amp was added to allow future mods and flexibility. Used rca y cable to split the signal. Ran new speaker cables and installed a fan near the amps to help keep them cool. Yamaha tuned the original Polk Audio amp to 8 ohms per connection. Underrating the amp allows it to last longer and less heat, but doesn’t provide the watts needed. I went mostly with DS18 speakers and 8” in the cabin. Went with LED speakers with a DS18 bluetooth controller. The sub was changed from 4 ohm to 2 ohm dual voice channel, putting it to 400 watts on the factory Polk Audio amp. The sub is generic and probably should have went with WS, but it got excellent reviews on Amazon. It sounds great and i can easily enjoy the music at top speed. Love the highs, mids, and lows. i hope this gives you some options.
I've got a question in regards to this statement. I'm planning to reuse the yamaha supplied Polk 5000.5 amp in tandem with another 4 channel amp to liven up the factory system with as minimum cost impact as possible. By "tuned to 8 ohms per connection" do you basically mean wired speakers in series, or is the amp actually different from a standard 5000.5? Right now I'm planning on wiring two speakers in parallel to each channel to load it at 2 ohms.
your close to what I have not sure about quality as im not an audiophile... cabin is 6 x 6.5's kickers and a 10" kicker sub on a 8 channel (6+ 2 bridged for the sub ) 3000W amp and shortly I'll come out of the head with another line to a 2 x 200w to power the 2 new to me tower 6.5 kicker cans... my house batteries are a pair of LiFePO4 100ah ampere time batteries and I have yet to put a dent in them running for an 8 hour day... at listening volume... I like class D amps...
for real audio on the water I use a yamaha 3000W Inverter genset and 2x 3000w B1500XP Behringer eurolive subs and 4 x 1500w B615D eurolive mains running through a 14ch Peavy unpowered board being careful not to hurt anyone
Actually just changed my boat setup again... the 3000W was too much for the 65WRMS/150WMAX speakers so i switched back to the 100W/CH PEAK amps and the sound is MUCH better... front L/R go to one 4 ch amp and 4x 6.5's LOW in the cabin, rear L/R go to another 4ch amp and power the 2x 6.5's in the high bench seat sides and the 2 x 6.5 tower cans and a third amp from the subw L/R to the 10" kicker in the port cabin wall under the pedestal seat... and i had the sub bridged to mono but like the subw so much Im gonna add another in same place on the stbd side... I was able to balance the low and high mount speakers and the subs to even out the sound and I can still use the fader move sound between outside the boat and inside the boat.... I cant find my sound meter but the overall volume and quality IMPROVED with balance and crossover tuning with less power... I also added some sound baffling to keep the engine bay from echoing up the inside of the freeboard into the hull... so in summary 8 x 6.5 4 ohm kickers @100W/ch mains and 2 x 10" 4 ohm kicker Subs @200W/ch (well as soon as the second sub gets here from creative audio this non symmetrical thing was bothering me )
one last mod will be to remount the amps on a hinged board to allow them to swing from vertical to the horizontal to improve adjustment and service down in the hole on a LS/LX/AR210 that is the port console
I've got a question in regards to this statement. I'm planning to reuse the yamaha supplied Polk 5000.5 amp in tandem with another 4 channel amp to liven up the factory system with as minimum cost impact as possible. By "tuned to 8 ohms per connection" do you basically mean wired speakers in series, or is the amp actually different from a standard 5000.5? Right now I'm planning on wiring two speakers in parallel to each channel to load it at 2 ohms.
The factory speakers are wired in series (see diagram) which equals 8 ohm per 4 of 5 channels. The factory Subwoofer was 4 ohm, which I replaced the subwoofer to 2 ohm to get 400 watts RMS. I ran new speaker wire to each speaker for the purpose of upgrading to a higher gauge wire, minus the sound bar (kept at 8 ohms).
I'm about to install all of this after I go pick up an RCA splitter 1 female to 2 male. (2 pack). Can I run the remote wire from the new amp to the same input on the back of the HU as the first amp? Will that work?
I'm about to install all of this after I go pick up an RCA splitter 1 female to 2 male. (2 pack). Can I run the remote wire from the new amp to the same input on the back of the HU as the first amp? Will that work?
That's right...the remote wire is merely a low current 12v trigger so running a couple of amps off the remote line from the head unit shouldn't be an issue. If you decide to add more amps down the road, then you should install a 12v relay to trigger the amps.
That's right...the remote wire is merely a low current 12v trigger so running a couple of amps off the remote line from the head unit shouldn't be an issue. If you decide to add more amps down the road, then you should install a 12v relay to trigger the amps.
Quick question. Do I really need RCAs for every set of speakers? Not sure what it is up with this, if so I'm fucked. I bought 2 pairs of 1 female to 2 males adapters, but I obviously had to use one set for my tower speaker amp. And now I only have 1 set left...lol. amateur hour over here
Depends if you want to fade front/rear or not. If you don't need it, you can set the amp to 2/3 channel mode and you only need one set of RCA's going to the "front" inputs and you can power all the speakers. The amp comes with a little manual that shows connection options and how to do it with switches on the amp.
Depends if you want to fade front/rear or not. If you don't need it, you can set the amp to 2/3 channel mode and you only need one set of RCA's going to the "front" inputs and you can power all the speakers. The amp comes with a little manual that shows connection options and how to do it with switches on the amp.
Thank you I guess I will just attach to the front and see of it works. I still have the factory HU so I'm not going to need to fade anything. I've read the manual maybe I missed it. TBH I'm not even sure what you mean if I need to "fade" anything. So all 4 of my cabin speakers and the sub will work with just the "front" RCAs connected to the amp?
Thank you so much man!! Sounds like I'm good then. I don't plan on having "zones" or needing to fade with this setup. My towers are on a different amp. I'm getting there, ran out of speaker wire running the cabin speakers back to the amp that were in the HU. Sent the wife to get me more...lol. should only have a few hours left, I'm pumped to hear it
ok so it depends on the amp and head config... have you set the head unit to sent the signals out the line outs? and even tuned on the sub channels?
I have F L/R R L/R and sub L/R outputs enabled off my head unit... front L/R goes to a 4 channel amp #1 with a 2-4 RCA splitter cable that is the L and R RCA cables are Spilt into 4 RCA cables at the amp end and that powers my 4 x 4 ohm cabin speakers, Rear L/R does the same thing to 4 channel amp #2 and powers my rear bench seat speakers and my tower speakers. this allows met to set the input gain on 4 channels and adjust the volume with front/read fader if i want the level inside the boat different than the outside... the sub L/r goes to 2 channel amp #3 and powers the 2 subs in the cabin... the JVC head unit acts as the crossover network and allows some signal processing features as well.
each amp is 400W Peak total 2x 4x100W/ch and 2x200 for the subs)
ok so it depends on the amp and head config... have you set the head unit to sent the signals out the line outs? and even tuned on the sub channels?
I have F L/R R L/R and sub L/R outputs enabled off my head unit... front L/R goes to a 4 channel amp #1 with a 2-4 RCA splitter cable that is the L and R RCA cables are Spilt into 4 RCA cables at the amp end and that powers my 4 x 4 ohm cabin speakers, Rear L/R does the same thing to 4 channel amp #2 and powers my rear bench seat speakers and my tower speakers. this allows met to set the input gain on 4 channels and adjust the volume with front/read fader if i want the level inside the boat different than the outside... the sub L/r goes to 2 channel amp #3 and powers the 2 subs in the cabin... the JVC head unit acts as the crossover network and allows some signal processing features as well.
each amp is 400W Peak total 2x 4xim 100W/ch and 2x200 for the subs)
Your talking another language, I don't even know what any of this means . I'm still using the factory HU. I'm desperate been in here for like 6 hours. Guess I bit off more than I can chew, super fucking frustrated...lol
ok its a matter of configuring your inputs and outputs. what's coming out of your factory head unit? and where's it going? and then how are the amps configured. somewhere a device called a crossover network sends the proper frequency signals to the proper device... you can also do this with band pass filters at the amp if it supports it....
did you read the manual on the components?
oh i looked at your drawing are you using RCA/ Line level outs or speaker wires out of the head unit? the amp will need to know this ether via config or input ports
ok its a matter of configuring your inputs and outputs. what's coming out of your factory head unit? and where's it going? and then how are the amps configured. somewhere a device called a crossover network sends the proper frequency signals to the proper device... you can also do this with band pass filters at the amp if it supports it....
did you read the manual on the components?
I read the manual like 10 times now. I only have 1 RCA out on the back of my HU. I have 2 Amps, thinking I only needed 1 set of RCAs for both amps, I bought a splitter to provide 1 set to each amp. I wired up the 4 cabins and the subwoofer to the amp, powered on fine and all that (both amps) I ran a remote from the first amp to the second all good there. I obviously have no fucking clue what I'm doing, even when I move the RCAs to the sub input on the back of the amp, it won't play. Idk at this point
