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Adding amp to cabin speakers

depends on what the speakers on that amp freq response is... the LOW Full HIGH switch is a (frequency) band pass filter and I always screw this up... LOW passes low freq and attenuated high freq (this would be correct for a subwoofer) Full passes everything (for cabins and towers and no sub) HIGH passes the high freqs and filters (mutes or attenuates) the lows... for cabins and towers where your already running a SUB... now there are exceptions but this is the general case...
 
check your amp specs i assume this is on the Line in side of the amp and effects the front and rear channels.. more advanced amps have a filter setting for each amp channel.
 
check your amp specs i assume this is on the Line in side of the amp and effects the front and rear channels.. more advanced amps have a filter setting for each amp channel.
I just mean the gain and frequency, is that what you are talking about!?! Lol
 
I just mean the gain and frequency, is that what you are talking about!?! Lol
You have a sub so set the x-over frequency at 80hz. If there's a x-over setting on the sub amp, set it at 80hz too.
The gain needs to be set for maximum volume levels without clipping, which you can do by ear if you don't have the tools or experience to tune it properly.
 
You have a sub so set the x-over frequency at 80hz. If there's a x-over setting on the sub amp, set it at 80hz too.
The gain needs to be set for maximum volume levels without clipping, which you can do by ear if you don't have the tools or experience to tune it properly.
Ok I got you. So I would do the gain on the Sub and cabin speakers independently obviously. Frequency set to 80HZ on the sub? And also 80 on the cabins? Sorry I know I'm a pain in the ass...lol. Just don't want to blow my shit up, but want to make sure I am getting the most power out of my amp safely
 
Very possibly I am just over thinking it...I tend to do that???
 
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I didn’t do a good job capturing everything, but another amp was added to allow future mods and flexibility. Used rca y cable to split the signal. Ran new speaker cables and installed a fan near the amps to help keep them cool. Yamaha tuned the original Polk Audio amp to 8 ohms per connection. Underrating the amp allows it to last longer and less heat, but doesn’t provide the watts needed. I went mostly with DS18 speakers and 8” in the cabin. Went with LED speakers with a DS18 bluetooth controller. The sub was changed from 4 ohm to 2 ohm dual voice channel, putting it to 400 watts on the factory Polk Audio amp. The sub is generic and probably should have went with WS, but it got excellent reviews on Amazon. It sounds great and i can easily enjoy the music at top speed. Love the highs, mids, and lows. i hope this gives you some options.
You got 8” speakers to fit in the front and in the cabin? Did you change the rear swim deck speakers?
 
Quick question for those who have already installed amps to their Yamaha boats. Where are you connecting your power for the amp? Direct to the battery or is there a convenient place to tap into the 12v after the master switch?
 
I ran a seperate 4 gauge pair with a disconnect directly off the house battery string to a set of bus bars and then the audio components are all separately fused off that. if the house batteries go flat... i have the start battery that will get me home and power all my comms and boat systems off resettable circuit breakers on 2 x 20A busses.. I also have the house battery's and start battery on a battery master to allow A, B, A&B, and Off..
 
Quick question for those who have already installed amps to their Yamaha boats. Where are you connecting your power for the amp? Direct to the battery or is there a convenient place to tap into the 12v after the master switch?
Directly to a 2nd house battery..
 
Quick question for those who have already installed amps to their Yamaha boats. Where are you connecting your power for the amp? Direct to the battery or is there a convenient place to tap into the 12v after the master switch?
Through a marine rated battery switch and fuse to the house battery. The switch allows me to turn amps off so there's no power drain from them at all.
 
Through a marine rated battery switch and fuse to the house battery. The switch allows me to turn amps off so there's no power drain from them at all.
That's what I ended up doing. I pulled the switch and added it to there. I don't run a house battery since I am not running a big amp. I do carry a battery booster with me in the event I run the power down or someone else does and needs assistance. My biggest challenge was installing the thing. It is on the aft wall of the port seat. I had to remove the seat and get down in there to mount it, run the wires through and connect to the battery switch. Correction, that was the 2nd biggest challenge. The biggest was trying to get out of there once I was done. Felt like I was laying on my side in a coffin.
 
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