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Alternate Source for Steering Box?

Beachbummer

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
4,052
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2,968
Points
352
Location
Houston TX
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
23

Seems to be unique, related to Tilt Steering, with a hole in the shaft that connects it to the tilt steering. My steering is a bit loose, with maybe 5-15 degrees of play.

I'm going to replace the cables as they are getting stiff, BUT I figured if the box is damaged/has extra play, I might as well replace it, so I was hoping to find an alternate non-OEM source for the SeaStar Teleflex part, but I can only find the Teleflex part as part of the whole tilt steering assembly, making it more expensive.

Like this one:

Any ideas on how to get the steering gear box on its own without paying Yamaha $220?

THANKS!
 
I called this place when I was having trouble getting steering cables last year. Ultimately didn’t work out but he was very willing to help try to track down the parts by the Teleflex number since I couldn’t find any through Yamaha.

 
My steering box has an easy 15 degree play in the steering wheel. I have thought about pulling it out to see what is inside that might be loose to tighten it up. I have opened many rack and pinion sets for automobiles but I am not sure what I would find in this little box.

Anyone ever had one open?
 
Not to try to change your mind, or anything, but this is a conversion to the newer style system that I would’ve probably done, had I known about it prior to changing my steering cables. The newer systems reduce the ratio slightly, making the steering a bit easier. Creates a little more travel in the steering, but easier turning. You may very well already know all about it, just figured I’d pass it on. FYI, this is basically just the bullet points from a conversation I had with a guy on Facebook. This was his project, I simply spoke with him.




It uses parts (steering box and cables) from a 242 Limited S. The process is described on Yamaha Jet Boaters forum. Makes the steering nice and light.

IIRC it cost in the neighborhood of $800? The cables are the most expensive part. Totally worth it though

Here's a list of parts for the conversion:

F3F-U1470-00-00 Cable set

F3F-U151A-00-00 Pinion Mechanism Set

F3F-U1400-00-00 Tilt Steering Mount <-- I ended up not needing this, my stock tilt was the same.

One small detail: the cables exit the steering to the right from the rack instead of forward like the stock cables. Not an issue on newer boats since the steering console seems to be molded as one piece with the inner hull, but in my 2005 they ran straight into the side of the console. I had to cut a hole to pass the cables through, IIRC it was around 3". Ended up putting some caulk and a slit rubber tube to make sure moisture wasn't getting into the fiberglass.
 
I thought this was like 4 turns vs. One lock to lock. I really like the fast/short control of the current system, just looking to take the slip away if I can help it
 
I think they all have a good amount of play. Try taking it apart and greasing it to tighten it up. I think the link with pictures is posted above. I agree the flat spot or play in the steering between about 10 and 2 when trying to go strait for ropeless wakesurfing is very frustrating. I usually will favor one side like keeping the wheel solid around 2 o'clock position, but that only works on big open lakes. The bouncing between 10 and 2 can quickly change the wave
And the push behind the boat.
 
I can only find the Teleflex part as part of the whole tilt steering assembly, making it more expensive.

Call Seastar / Teleflex and ask if you can buy it separately. My experience is that they are quite responsive.
 
I might be misunderstanding the problem, but this sounds like it might be related to the fix @Bruce came up with, printing his steering bushings. Dunno if the results are the same with the newer cable setup, or if this is even the solution, just throwing ideas out there.



I ordered those as well, they should be here in a couple of days.

My issue is that you can turn the steering wheel plus or minus 10 degrees or so before the control arm out of the steering rack even begins to move at all. There is a dead zone.

I am going to look at the articulated joint in the tilt wheel mechanism tomorrow to see if that is loose...that just occurred to me.
 
My issue is that you can turn the steering wheel plus or minus 10 degrees or so before the control arm out of the steering rack even begins to move at all. There is a dead zone.


When you turn the wheel does the triangle shaped piece move or dies it also have slack? If it has slack I would think you must have a damaged gear inside the system. If it moves then it seems like the problem would have to be with the cables. Are they tightly connected?
 
It does not move, it could be in the steering box or the universal joint - haven't had time to pull it apart yet. No slack in cables, they are tight.
 
Please share pictures if you disassemble further.
 
My steering moves about 15 degrees before the cables at the helm or the levers in there move at all. Some time ago I replaced my wheel and it was TIGHT on, I just reused the hub, so I am not planning on messing with this until the winter UNLESS something comes up. It has had this play since It was new to me, so it's not like it's urgent, I wish I had attacked last winter, but such is life. The bushings help reduce the lag once the cables are moving, no doubt there, but there is just a large dead spot in the gears at all different points I think.

Wheel turns 270 degrees, but the gear box reduces maybe to 60? 80? so that reduction also amplifies the dead spot due to the gears?

I'll keep looking but getting the wheel off to get started will probably be the hardest hurdle for me.
 
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