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Good info @swatski especially the engine hatch seal find, I was amazed the factory does not fit one but then again, just look at the spray glue they use .
Careful you don't get addicted, that's some figure you mentioned regarding the weight of material that went into your 190!
I know! The noise does bother me tremendously! But -- I THINK I have gotten a lot wiser about the noise abatement scheme and can do just as good with a quarter or fifth of the added weight. Now, I had to stop because of the weather, but will be packing more Ensolite into her comes Spring.
One newbie question. In the engine bay do I need to remove the foam padding before I put in the BXT and the ensolite ? How do I remove the foam? Do I need to cover the ensolite with foam padding again ? If so what do I buy ? Thanks.
Dynamat on the seat back engine lid did not seem to do much of anything. Added plenty of weight...starting to lose hope! Just a noisy boat I guess. At least it's fast!
Dynamat on the seat back engine lid did not seem to do much of anything. Added plenty of weight...starting to lose hope! Just a noisy boat I guess. At least it's fast!
Check out the first post in the thread - with links to @ridinpropless method. I think it may be the best way to do it.
Did you get the seal for the engine hatch? They alone helps a ton, if done right.
You would think yamaha could come up with something reasonably priced to help this...family boat that you cant talk on..lol..may have been the goal all along
Did this last weekend, I can say it made a difference at cruising speed, noticeably quieter. Question is where to put some more for the best bang for buck
Did this last weekend, I can say it made a difference at cruising speed, noticeably quieter. Question is where to put some more for the best bang for buck
for me it was significant reduction in noise. I can actually carry a conversation while under way. without it its bit loud. bit hard to capture on a camera because of the wind noise
Yes. Mine is holding well after half a season of popping the hatch open and closed constantly while doing mods.
Two quick updates - I would change my glue recommendation back to 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray - I must have had an old can or something last time (when I switched to CRC), the 3M 90 will be the best for that seal as well as other things - drooping insulation foam and so on. As always, apply to both surfaces and let them sit and dry up for 5-10min before sticking those together.
The other thing is - (don't have pics - but will update) I have redone the part of the seal going over the lock mechanism, which was bothering me (aesthetically) - I ended up cutting out a couple of nice "V"s to fit and bend the seal better around those curves. Looks and sits nice and flat/tight, lol. I think this really is the best seal for this application (shape and thickness wise).
I'm still looking for someone with a '07-'09 (unmodified) that I can compare. I think the work I have done has made a pretty big difference, but I would like a "real-world" test. Any takers?
Resurrecting an old thread here for opinions. I am awaiting parts for what will be a weekend long project (maybe longer) in the near future to install a ballast system, vhf radio/antenna, inverter, my home made kegerator, built in inflator, improving my existing subwoofer install, and perhaps adding another subwoofer. I will have nearly every speaker removed and everything opened up to do this. I want to add some sound deadening and had a crazy idea when the thought of how much work it would be to do what @swatski did and considering what @gmtech16450yz has done to the water boxes. What if I used 2 part spray on urethane truck bed liner with air compressor power spray gun made for that stuff? I could coat the inner hull and bulkheads quickly. I could protect the anchor locker from normal bumps bruises it gets. I could coat the underside of the fuel hatch and the inside for the ski locker. Lastly I could go crazy in the bilge on the water boxes, resonators, and engine/bilge bulkhead on the bilge side. I would not use in the engine compartment though just on the bulkhead surrounding it from the other side. An added bonus would be small gaps/voids being filled and the extra water proofing around through hulls.
I know this will make some things harder to remove in the future like hose clamps or wires being stuck together but I am ok with that. I also know the off gassing will be bad for maybe a few days in the internal areas. I know enough spray to do three trucks beds ( or what I plan on spaying with it) will weigh about 30 pounds. My concern is in the bilge area. Would the truck bed liner burn off the water boxes? Would it even help? Also if sprayed on the carpeted bulkheads and hull walls would it peel the carpet right off? Is this crazy? What am I not thinking of?
Lastly if you think this would work what color to use as this stuff is comes in many colors and can be tinted any color. Bright red or blue could be cool, black is pretty standard for this stuff and one could tell what it was, but I am leaning towards white since it will be seen a bit in some places.
I really want to try this so please poke all the holes you can before I do something that could be stupid.
Years ago some of the old timers discussed spay foam but I don't know of any one who did it. I have considered it myself but my inexperience in applying gave me pause. Have you considered the combustion issue?
Years ago some of the old timers discussed spay foam but I don't know of any one who did it. I have considered it myself but my inexperience in applying gave me pause. Have you considered the combustion issue?
I am not sure spray foam would have the vibration reducing impact of urethane truck bed liner I am proposing to use. By combustion issue I assume you mean prior to curing. I know this stuff is safe very close to very hot car exhausts as it is popular as an undercoating with the offroad crowd. Is there something I don’t know about a combustion issue?
As for application it is pretty much the same as painting a car with the old tube pickup style guns. I have painted cars with hvlp guns and houses with airless sprayers so I don’t think application would be an issue. Prep is 90 percent of the job. Keep the gun moving steady before during and after the trigger is squeezed. Wear a disposable hooded suit, disposable gloves, googles, and respirator. Let cure.
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