Another Stoltz Roller Post

[RobbieO]

So the same story. After one trip to the lake, my bow is gouged AF (not marred) from the POS shorelandr bow roller we have all be talking about. I was going to install the 3.5" Stoltz roller that fits the shorelandr trailer, but the contour is not right for a 2021, and it's out of stock everywhere. After hours of research and forum comments, I decided to go with the RP-446 roller which is designed for a Semi-V bow, such as mine. As luck would have it, it's back ordered everywhere. Was able to find one in Tennessee, and order the end rollers (RP-325) from Amazon. Come to find out most of the rollers are 4", the bracket on my trailer is 3 5/8". Looks like I'm going to have to McGyver this damn trailer somehow. Just an FYI. There have been a lot of complaints about the rollers not rolling. If your roller is the correct size and is not forced into the bracket, don't overtighten the mounting bolt. The nylock nut is there for a reason. Just tighten down enough to let the rollers spin, don't squeeze down the bracket. That is my preference.

 

[HangOutdoors]

4 inch works fine for our trailers unless the changed them in 2021
When i load my boat it snugs fine. My roller never turns when i load and unload.

 

[RobbieO]

4 inch works fine for our trailers unless the changed them in 2021
When i load my boat it snugs fine. My roller never turns when i load and unload.

When you're driving down the road and the bow bounces, the rollers should roll with the bow. They are essentially bearings. That keeps the bow from marring. they move in unison when necessary. If they are able to move, then the bow just slides along, and you get marring. Gouging is a hole other issue. My 2021 shorelandr bracket is 3 5/8", and there is only one correct roller for it, but the contour is just as bad as the one that is on there now. I decided to go with your recommendation, but I will have to spread the bracket open a bit.

 

[HangOutdoors]

No way for that to really happen. Eye is upto bow roller snug. Boat shouldnt shift on trailer. At least mine doesnt. Winch post is tightened additionally, and i snug the boat after re trieval with 5mph stop. I have seen people who dont snug their bow and watched their boats shift when they hit the brakes on the road. Not good.

I have seen other boats not use a roller but a V as well.

If you are just winching it tight, it may not be tight enough upbagainst post

 

[suke]

Yeah that stoltz 3.5" bow roller marketed for yamaha jet boats doesn't work for crap. Maybe on the old style of boats? I ordered a RP444, instead of the 446. The 444 has somewhat of a V, but not as deep as the 3.5". It's 3 7/8", so it should fit just fine. I ordered the 3" round ends as well. Ifcthat doesn't work I'll rig up something to shave down the bells to they fit the contour better. The stoltz has jacked up my boat too, so it's def not "perfect". Hoping this new set will do the trick.

 

[haknslash]

The 3.5 roller is intended for the 19’ boat hull contour and even then I don’t care for how it sits. Get the 4“ and be done. The Stoltz can leave some residue that you may have to clean from time to time (no biggie) but it’s not going to scratch or gouge into the gel coat like the stock hard plastic one does. To fit a 4” you either bend the tabs out a little or trim a little off each side, either is a simple adjustment to et it to fit.

 

[RobbieO]

Conclusion...Since my bracket is 3 5/8", and neither the 4", or 3" rollers will fit, I ordered the RP-446 and will cut it down to fit. I also ordered the 4 1/4" end bells to replace the 5 1/4" bells that are on there now. I also have the RP-325 end rollers to try. So I should be able to come up with the perfect fit with these options. Doesn't make sense to spend all this $$ because Shorelandr decided to be different. In addition, I found these Semi-V rollers that are on backorder, but I ordered a few anyway. This is basically what I am going to do in the meantime.

Stoltz 3.5 " Custom - Drewcraft LLC

Stoltz 3.5 " This is a custom modified RP-446 cut down to fit a 3.5" bracket Comes with RP-325 bottle cap ends, bolt, nut and washers available with different caps or without bolt upon request

drewcraft.com

 

[drewkaree]

@RobbieO I am not 100% certain this is what I got, but I have posted somewhere around here about what the exact Stoltz numbers are for my setup - *actual order info shows that I have the RP-446* top of my head says I have the RP-444 center roller and the RP-325 bell ends.

Boat's dirty, just got it out of storage yesterday, so no cleanup and "beauty" shot for you, but here's how it looks on my 2019 AR210:




The 446 spins, as can be seen by the marring of my roller moving from the bow eye to where you see it now. It doesn't spin "freely", but enough that I'm satisfied with it, and likely won't take it off anytime soon to shave more off.

If you can find my info, well, hope it helps you.

 

[suke]

@RobbieO I am not 100% certain this is what I got, but I have posted somewhere around here about what the exact Stoltz numbers are for my setup - top of my head says I have the RP-444 center roller and the RP-325 bell ends.

Boat's dirty, just got it out of storage yesterday, so no cleanup and "beauty" shot for you, but here's how it looks on my 2019 AR210:

View attachment 146709


The 444 spins, as can be seen by the marring of my roller moving from the bow eye to where you see it now. It doesn't spin "freely", but enough that I'm satisfied with it, and likely won't take it off anytime soon to shave more off.

If you can find my info, well, hope it helps you.

Nice! I ordered the 444 and 325 ends. They came in today. Eager to get them on my boat, granted it'll probably be another week or so until I get my boat out again to get it ready for the season.

 

[212s]

When you're driving down the road and the bow bounces,

The boat is not snugged up to the winch roller if it bounces. You need to put the trailer in a few inches deeper to be able to crank it all the way on. Or you can do the 3mph stop to slide the boat up to the winch tower, but I find putting the trailer in a bit deeper solves the problem.

When loading with dock lines, I back in to dunk the bunks and then pull forward to get the tops of the fenders just out of the water. This way the bunks help guide the boat on the trailer and I can pull the winch strap out about 6 feet, hook on then winch up about a foot or so from the tower. Then I back the trailer in a bit deeper to float the weight and then crank all the way to the tower. This centers the boat perfectly every time and it's all the way on the trailer. Once out of the water, the boat is perfectly even with the bunks at the transom to carry the weight fully and I can put the straps on without issue.

 

[RobbieO]

The boat is not snugged up to the winch roller if it bounces. You need to put the trailer in a few inches deeper to be able to crank it all the way on. Or you can do the 3mph stop to slide the boat up to the winch tower, but I find putting the trailer in a bit deeper solves the problem.

When loading with dock lines, I back in to dunk the bunks and then pull forward to get the tops of the fenders just out of the water. This way the bunks help guide the boat on the trailer and I can pull the winch strap out about 6 feet, hook on then winch up about a foot or so from the tower. Then I back the trailer in a bit deeper to float the weight and then crank all the way to the tower. This centers the boat perfectly every time and it's all the way on the trailer. Once out of the water, the boat is perfectly even with the bunks at the transom to carry the weight fully and I can put the straps on without issue.

I'm going to try this method today. My boat is not perfectly centered in the rear at the sten. About 2" off center. Thanks!

 

[TN_seamonkey]

When loading with dock lines, I back in to dunk the bunks and then pull forward to get the tops of the fenders just out of the water. This way the bunks help guide the boat on the trailer and I can pull the winch strap out about 6 feet, hook on then winch up about a foot or so from the tower. Then I back the trailer in a bit deeper to float the weight and then crank all the way to the tower. This centers the boat perfectly every time and it's all the way on the trailer. Once out of the water, the boat is perfectly even with the bunks at the transom to carry the weight fully and I can put the straps on without issue.

Man, I wish the guy who owned my boat before me followed that procedure. He just powered it all the way up to the roller, so the boat new has massive scrapes and scratches on the bow. :-( I wish there was an easy way to get those out.

 

[tonypetro]

I have an AR250 on order and will need to trailer it home about 1200 miles when it finally comes in. As such, have been looking for roller replacements which have been completely out of stock everywhere! I just noticed today Sturdy Built Trailer has them back in stock for the 250 (or at least I think these are the right ones?!): 4 Inch Stoltz Semi-V Bow Roller Kit-25430-K It's the RP-446 and bells (doesn't list the bell specifically). Hope that helps.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Put the trailer in and winch to the bow. I do not drive it all the way in. I keep it a couple few feet from the roller, then hop off and crank it the rest of the way which allows it to naturally settle. Also you can shift the bow to the right or left by hand a bit while cranking to center the transom.

Coming out of the water, while the bunks are wet, i do about 5 mph, then hit the brakes abruptly and the boat will slide up a bit and snug tight. Then go crank your winch AT THIS TIME, tight. If you wait you have a chance of hitting a bump or two and your boat will slide back a bit. I also recommend making sure your winch post is tight. Mine was not from dealer/factory. Otherwise it will start pushing it forward. I realized this when the Admiral stopped and I watch the boat slide up a few inches and the post moved/rocked.

Make sure you now put in your chain as well before you tow up ramp, if winch strap/clip breaks with wet bunks your boat can slide off, causing damage or sever injury/death.

 

[drewkaree]

I have an AR250 on order and will need to trailer it home about 1200 miles when it finally comes in. As such, have been looking for roller replacements which have been completely out of stock everywhere! I just noticed today Sturdy Built Trailer has them back in stock for the 250 (or at least I think these are the right ones?!): 4 Inch Stoltz Semi-V Bow Roller Kit-25430-K It's the RP-446 and bells (doesn't list the bell specifically). Hope that helps.

This was the place I bought my bow roller from, and I got the 325 end bells from Amazon. I was able to look at my order detail thanks to the link from @tonypetro to this vendor, and it turns out, I bought the RP-446 for my 2019 AR210, picture of how it fits and follows the shape of the bow is posted above. Sorry for the erroneous info on the RP-444 above. I'll edit my post with what exactly I got so as to avoid confusion.

Man, I wish the guy who owned my boat before me followed that procedure. He just powered it all the way up to the roller, so the boat new has massive scrapes and scratches on the bow. :-( I wish there was an easy way to get those out.
View attachment 146765

I can't tell from those pics, but to me, it looks like you might be able to bring that back into shape with a buffer and some work. Far more experienced people on this forum can guide you, and some better pics will help us help you. For certain, I'd be taking that bow roller setup off and replacing it if that's the damage it did. The power loading isn't the only thing that caused that damage if that's the OEM roller.

 

[TN_seamonkey]

I can't tell from those pics, but to me, it looks like you might be able to bring that back into shape with a buffer and some work. Far more experienced people on this forum can guide you, and some better pics will help us help you. For certain, I'd be taking that bow roller setup off and replacing it if that's the damage it did. The power loading isn't the only thing that caused that damage if that's the OEM roller.

Ah, man, if I can clean that up with some polish and an orbital or something, that would be awesome. I'll scour through the info here and see if I can figure out which roller parts I need for my SX195. I'll also post a better photo of the damage.

Thanks!

 

[drewkaree]

Ah, man, if I can clean that up with some polish and an orbital or something, that would be awesome. I'll scour through the info here and see if I can figure out which roller parts I need for my SX195. I'll also post a better photo of the damage.

Thanks!

I can't remember who does stuff like this, but I know I recall @suke is a detailing fiend and.... @mrcleanr6 ? I know the fingernail question is an indicator (does your fingernail catch on any of those scratches), but beyond that, I'd be in the same situation as you, reading, learning and putting in some work to see what I could do.

Unrelated, but you're the spitting image of my dad's uncle! He passed away 10+ years ago, and seeing your pic...perfect doppleganger! Cheers to you for reminding me of good old memories!

 

[TN_seamonkey]

Ah, that's cool! You're not the first person that's said that about me. I guess I just have a common ol' noggin'... Ha!

Here are a couple of more detailed photos with the cover off. I don't think any of them are large enough to catch my fingernail on.

I'll keep diggin'

 

[suke]

Yeah that largely looks like it can be polished out, if nothing else you could make it damn near invisible. It's gonna take some work, though. If you're not comfortable/experienced wetsanding and with a rotary it may be better left to the pros. It shouldn't take but 30 mins tops for a pro to knock that out. Might be worth finding someone that details boats, and give them a holler. You'd likely spend more in equipment than it would cost to have someone knock it out for ya.


IF you are brave and/or have experience get some wetsand paper. I try not to go anything lower than 1000 grit as most things can be taken care of with that. Start with 1k, 1500, 2k, and then 3k. Look up some wetsanding vids on youtube. Get a rotary polisher with a wool pad, and some 3m heavy cut polish, and finesse it II, as well as a large throw orbital polisher. I recommend the Griots G21. Great polisher for the price. Use the 3m heavy cut with the rotary and wool pad to clean up the wetsanding marks. Come back over that with a large throw orbital and microfiber(I like meguiars microfiber pads) pad with finesse it II. Then step down to a foam polishing pad with some cut (lake country hybrid pads are good for this). Use that and some finesse it II to go over it. Bingo! All fixed! Granted that's likely about $400-500 worth of stuff. Make sure to top it off with a good gelcoat sealant.

 

[TN_seamonkey]

Thank you @suke for that info! I think I'll look around for a pro to do it. I just don't have the patience myself. I'm super stoked to find out it's repairable!

Now, to replace that roller thing...