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Battery voltage/charge. Is this normal?

tabbibus

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tabbibus

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This is the back of my solar panel. Looks to be some kind of a controller.
After my battery died few times i decided to test the solar. I only measure .46 volts.
So this is how my solar panel looks as well. No way to remove that and see inside! Ugh
 

jcyamaharider

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After removing the panel and testing i got 0v
Isn't your solar panel upside down? The velcro would face down to connect to the bimini? Or does it matter? I have no clue just spit balling here.
 

jcyamaharider

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So glad mine are hard mounted.
 

tabbibus

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So glad mine are hard mounted.
It is actually quite secure. velcro is pretty heavy duty and it slots in very nicely. If only it FREAKING WORKED!
 

Mohamed Z Sherif

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Finally got a new panel from the dealer.
Measureing the voltage and i get 0v. Now what.
 

Maccam26

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I have a NOCO charger hooked up to both start and house, after being plugged in for 24 hours plus my Connext reads 12.3 V. I don’t know if it reads both batteries on there or combined, but I’d expect after a smart charger optimizes brand new batteries they’d read a bit higher than that. Still cranks really fast and seems ok so idk.
I have the same happening on my 1 yr old battery Deka starting abd its been the same since new. I plug it and it shows only 12.3 on the Connext, at the battery it's 12.6. so it's like there is a loss of strength once it reaches my connext.
 

Summers420us

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What was the resolution here? Did you figure out how to test and diagnose the Solar Panel on a 2018+ Got pics on which wires to test? Does it charge when the batteries are switched in to OFF position?
 

HughSethner

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To the brain trust of jetboaters.net,
A little help please! I have diligently read the posts regarding solar panels and battery voltage. To start I purchase this 2017 to 242X at the end of last season, I have replaced the batteries this year and seem to have a problem with the solar panels. I took my multimeter and checked the voltage coming out of the two panels separately at the leads directly from the solar panels (between them) and they are both producing zero voltage. Further the panels may be fried as there is infinite resistance, Or no circuit between the positive in the negative of each panel.

Is it common that with the known wiring issues of these panels that they fully fry? In many posts it seems that even with reverse polarity that the panels themselves don’t quit very often.

Fearing that their replacement is eminent, does anybody know who is the manufacture of these panels and their replacement cost from the Stealer or preferably from an alternate source. Part number?

Thank you for your time and help. I hope this can further help other boat owners that may be working through these odd electrical issues.
 

Kevin-yyz

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Have you checked the solar panel fuse? My panel wasn’t working wither, I found it difficult to get a read with a multi meter. Turns out the fuse was blown.
 

HughSethner

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Have you checked the solar panel fuse? My panel wasn’t working wither, I found it difficult to get a read with a multi meter. Turns out the fuse was blown.
Thanks for asking, yes I did. Fuse was good. Hence, Why I went to the source to see if the panels were producing power. (Started at the source) since I couldn’t be sure someone hadn’t made some changes to the system. That’s how I discovered no power being produced from either panel. (Which was a surprise, one dead maybe, but both, hmmm.) When I bought the boat the dealer had to replace one of the resistors. (Wish I knew which one it was.)
 

HughSethner

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Any alternate parts locations to source these solar panels?
 

tabbibus

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I gave up on those panels. Just took the off. Not worth my grief
 
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