Battery Fuse at fuse block

[Beachbummer]

Humble suggestions for troubleshooting...

1)Turn battery switch to off, and insert multi-meter prongs where the fuse goes... Check Ohm measurement....Should be open/pretty high.... Then go crazy jigging wiring near and around trying to replicate the possible short. When the Ohms reduce greatly, go to zero, BAM, there's your short.

2)If you want to diagnose without the rectifier you can disconnect it and run the engine briefly (similar to car with no alternator...not a long term fix, but 10 minutes with a well charged battery should be no problem whatsoever), Engine will be draining battery and not charging, but it will take the "rectifier current" off the equation, if everything else fails and it doesn't blow the fuse with the rectifier disconnected, there's a good chance it's to blame.

If it was me, to troubleshoot, I might rig a 12v 30 amp breaker with 2 leads and use it in place of your breaker so you can reset with push button vs replacing fuses while you figure this out.
(Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GGONYM/ and rig 2 wires/leads and insert on each side where the fuse goes now, to make you a "resettable" fuse)


These are a bit wild but not overly so. Try at your own risk, you mileage may vary

EDIT: changed "voltmeter prongs" to "multi-meter prongs" to make it more accurate.

 

[Rakkaone187]

It did. I just purchased the rectifier/regulator. I’ll start there and see if that fixes the battery fuse blowing. This gremlin can hide, but it’ll be eventually will run out of places to hide. Or I’ll run out of money searching for it. Either way, I’ll find a way to get out on the water. Haha.

 

[Rakkaone187]

Humble suggestions for troubleshooting...

1)Turn battery switch to off, and insert multi-meter prongs where the fuse goes... Check Ohm measurement....Should be open/pretty high.... Then go crazy jigging wiring near and around trying to replicate the possible short. When the Ohms reduce greatly, go to zero, BAM, there's your short.

2)If you want to diagnose without the rectifier you can disconnect it and run the engine briefly (similar to car with no alternator...not a long term fix, but 10 minutes with a well charged battery should be no problem whatsoever), Engine will be draining battery and not charging, but it will take the "rectifier current" off the equation, if everything else fails and it doesn't blow the fuse with the rectifier disconnected, there's a good chance it's to blame.

If it was me, to troubleshoot, I might rig a 12v 30 amp breaker with 2 leads and use it in place of your breaker so you can reset with push button vs replacing fuses while you figure this out.
(Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GGONYM/ and rig 2 wires/leads and insert on each side where the fuse goes now, to make you a "resettable" fuse)


These are a bit wild but not overly so. Try at your own risk, you mileage may vary

EDIT: changed "voltmeter prongs" to "multi-meter prongs" to make it more accurate.

Thank you for your advice. I bought the rectifier/regulator. While I wait for it to ship, I’ll try your ohm test of the empty fuse slot to replicate a possible short. Then follow up on this post with my results. I really appreciate everybody’s feedback. I’m learning a lot which makes this experience a positive one, despite not being able to use the boat.
EDIT: what setting do I set the ohms to? 200, 2000, 20k, 200k

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Keep at it! I feel for you… intermittent electrical problems are a son of a gun to fix.

 

[Julian]

It died again. On the water, idling. Drove around 15 minutes, went variable speeds 4-20mph. Fuse box is good. I took it apart and inspected it. The wiring harnesses looks good. No signs of burning or melted rubber. Got a warning check engine bring to Yamaha dealer.

So when it died, did you hit a wake/wave anything to jolt the boat....or just smooth cruising?

 

[Rakkaone187]

So when it died, did you hit a wake/wave anything to jolt the boat....or just smooth cruising?

Smooth cruising. When it died it was instant power off.

 

[Rakkaone187]

Thank you for your advice. I bought the rectifier/regulator. While I wait for it to ship, I’ll try your ohm test of the empty fuse slot to replicate a possible short. Then follow up on this post with my results. I really appreciate everybody’s feedback. I’m learning a lot which makes this experience a positive one, despite not being able to use the boat.

Here’s inside the battery compartment and engine bay.

 

[Rakkaone187]

Now I’m throwing a CEL. I began taking out the jet pump housing and impellar. I might as well grease it and check the SS impellar housing. My throttle also is really bogged down. I thought it was a piece of debrief jammed but it’s there’s nothing there. Maybe intermediate housing needs grease?? I’m going to run the engine very briefly without the impellar and see how it sounds. Is it possible the rectifier/regulator can cause the engine to bog down?

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

How are you making out?

 

[Rakkaone187]

How are you making out?

CEL. Pressed options icon 3 seconds. Displayed OBD code 521310. Check ETV relay for continuity. Also seems like the water that flows through engine is smelling almost like exhaust. Instead of running smooth it’s a rough idle. Maybe rich fuel mixture? Any ideas?

 

[Rakkaone187]

CEL. Pressed options icon 3 seconds. Displayed OBD code 521310. Check ETV relay for continuity. Also seems like the water that flows through engine is smelling almost like exhaust. Instead of running smooth it’s a rough idle.

What does the ETV actually do?

 

[Rakkaone187]

I replaced the Rectifier/Regulator. I’ll check the ETV relay to make sure there’s a good connection. But this CEL still won’t go away. This is frustrating having to sit by and wait for an appointment to get this boat serviced. One issue following another. Hopefully this fixes my boat.

 

[marcham]

Does the 30a fuse still blow with the new regulator?

 

[Rakkaone187]

Does the 30a fuse still blow with the new regulator?

Haven’t tried it on the water with the new rec/reg because of my OBD2 code being thrown at me.

 

[Rakkaone187]

Just reinstalled the fuse box, made sure screw holding fuse box panel together was tight. Pushed the stupid square fuse in and cranked the engine! Purred like a kitten.
Warning=0xC1,
CheckEngine=Ob01,
YDIS Code= 1,
OBD=SPN 0
Next warm day I am going to bring it out into the water for a test run. Hopefully all is fixed.
N

 

[Rakkaone187]

Got it fixed and running. And during this process tightened down several screws that were loose and added locktite per service manual. I am so glad I got it out in the water today.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Got it fixed and running. And during this process tightened down several screws that were loose and added locktite per service manual. I am so glad I got it out in the water today.

Awesomeness! Good to go for the summer!

 

[Rakkaone187]

Yes! And I learned a lot during this process. It was a positive experience and the credit certainly goes to this forum and it’s members that have contributed to my learning.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Right on.. do you have any idea what was causing that fuse to blow?

 

[Rakkaone187]

Right on.. do you have any idea what was causing that fuse to blow?

Good question. It was the rectifier/regulator that was toast. The diodes in the rec/reg were damaged, which caused an overcharge at the battery fuse. So the fusebox did it’s job protecting the battery and electrical system. Kudos to Yamaha! I’ve been able to fire it up and run at low speed or idle all day and not kill the engine.