Before winter or in the spring ? And why?

[Adubbs76]

Unfortunately, I need to pull the boat next weekend because I am traveling overseas. I won’t return until after they start to draw the water down in the lake. I was wondering if you think I should change the oil now or in the spring and specifically what the reasoning is. Along those lines I am kicking around the idea of having the boat washed and waxed after I pull it. I will be storing it with the shipping cover. Do you think I should do that now? Or wait until the spring?

 

[haknslash]

Up to you and it won't hurt either way. If you do it now your boat will be all ready to go first warm day in the spring. I like to do mine at the end of the season so all I gotta do in the spring is roll it out of the garage and hit the road.

 

[Bruce]

I change the oil and spark plugs after a few outings in the spring. Many will disagree but the Mobil One in the engine would last much longer than the time and hours I use it for.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

oil never goes bad it just gets dirty so why change it now unless it is really nasty , oil filters do go bad sitting They rust so best to have a fresh filter and oil when you start using the boat again.

 

[2kwik4u]

I change the oil and spark plugs after a few outings in the spring. Many will disagree but the Mobil One in the engine would last much longer than the time and hours I use it for.

Same here.

Reasoning is, I don't like to change things then let them sit without a test drive to verify the work was done properly. I knew it worked properly in the fall, and I haven't changed anything, should work in the spring. Once that is verified, then I make changes. Even though oil, filter and plugs should have no effect on operation, it's a change from what was there before. Easier to troubleshoot any potential issues in the spring.

 

[Gym]

The theory behind changing the oil in the fall before storage is that oil builds up dirt and acids while in use. These acids, over time can pit some engine componets and dirt can accumulate into sludge. So, in an engine that allows a complete oil change that would be the preferred method. Whereas our engines only allow a partial oil change there is no big difference when you do it.

 

[2kwik4u]

Is there a drain plug on the bottom of the motor/pan? If so, I wonder what it would take to put a valve down there with a hose barb on it, and suck the oil out through the bottom?

 

[props2you]

Here are a couple FAQ's for ya that may be useful!

https://jetboaters.net/faq/how-do-i-winterize-my-jet-boat.64/

https://jetboaters.net/faq/how-do-i-change-the-oil-in-my-yamaha-jet-boat.4/

The short answer is Preference, no damage either way, it's whatever helps you sleep at night. Are you anal, are you lax, that will be your determining factor. Not sure I've ever seen hard evidence either side as to or not to, just speculation and preference. Jeff @Cobra Jet Steering LLC does have a good point, in my opinion fresh is best, oil and filter!

 

[MidnightRider]

Well the engine doesn't really care if you do it fall or spring, however, if you do find something wrong during maintenance you'd much rather discover it in the fall and have the whole winter to let it sit in the shop or work on it then discover it in the spring and waste boating time as it sits in a busy shop during the spring. Lets say you changed the oil and discovered that there is something off like milky oil indicating water or something - you don't want to discover this in the spring when you want to get out on the water. That's one reason why I do maintenance and go over the whole boat in the fall before I put it away. Spark plugs I leave alone though and change after 1 or 2 outings in the spring giving some time to burn the fogging oil off.

Having said that, this is my first winter with a Yamaha - who fogs their engines? I've always fogged my boat engines as part of winterization - any reason not to fog these engines?

 

[bumpy]

I fog ours in the fall, change oil in the spring on the trailer, and do plugs after a few days of running in the spring.

 

[seadude]

I'll be the contrarian and say you always want to store an engine with clean oil.
Given all the people who don't with no ill affects, it probably doesn't really make much difference!

 

[zipper]

The theory behind changing the oil in the fall before storage is that oil builds up dirt and acids while in use. These acids, over time can pit some engine componets and dirt can accumulate into sludge. So, in an engine that allows a complete oil change that would be the preferred method. Whereas our engines only allow a partial oil change there is no big difference when you do it.

There is a method to do a complete oil change, on an MR-1. It is a little more difficult and potentially messy. I have done it and only lost a few drops into the engine compartment. It is hard to get to the oil cooler drain bolt, even using a mirror. https://jetboaters.net/threads/oil-change-on-mr-1-how-to-perform-a-complete-drain.3805/
One down and one to go. This was my first oil change after purchasing the boat. I have never done an oil change on a 1.8l. I do all my oil/plug changes in the April.

 

[MIKEP]

Why all the spark plug changes? I’ve never changed my plugs out on either my 2012 Yamaha VXR waverunner or my 2015 AR240 boat. Should I?

 

[bumpy]

Yep, I know what you mean. I didn't for 2 years until I joined the other forum. I had no problems either, but it is a very easy and cheap performance assurance.

 

[JBehrens]

Always service in the fall and fog before storing for the winter. I like knowing that everything is good to go as soon as I want to take it out in the spring. It is also nice if you don't know when your first day in the spring will be.

 

[viper15]

Why all the spark plug changes? I’ve never changed my plugs out on either my 2012 Yamaha VXR waverunner or my 2015 AR240 boat. Should I?

I think it mostly has to do with the act of fogging the engine. The plugs get coated with oil when fogging, and have a higher chance of then fouling. I'm a 'change the oil in the spring' guy. And since I live in the tundra of Wisconsin like you, I don't fog the engine either. The boat is stored in such dry conditions with super low humidity that I don't bother with the fogging. And therefore, I don't change the plugs either. This method has worked well for me over the past few boats I've owned. Others may have different methods and/or results.

This same oil change discussion happens with the Yamaha snowmobile group. Different part of the year, but "do I change before or after the season?" Similar to my boat, I change the oil just before the season. It's part of my routine maintenance to prepare for the season when I take the time to make sure everything is done properly and everything is in check.

 

[2kwik4u]

I also haven't changed the plugs on my Yamaha. My 3.0L Mercruiser with a carb was super sensitive to ignition components. I would change them at the beginning of every season (plugs, wires, cap, rotor), and then carry a spare set onboard at all times. Typically ended up changing it on the water at least once a season. No idea why that boat was so finicky about it?!?!

I also never fog the engine. I think that is more of a "long term storage in harsh conditions" prevention. I typically have the boat stored for less then 5 mo out of the year. I checked the old Mercruiser with a bore scope after a 6.5mo storage one year and could see no signs of corrosion on the interior of the cylinders or tops of the pistons. That validated the lack of need for me. I would asses this based on climate where it's stored, and how long between runs it might see. If I was stored for several years in a high humidity or corrosive environment (right on the ocean up north maybe) then I would consider fogging. Inland with reasonably short and dry storage, I don't bother.

 

[Gym]

To you guys who don't change your plugs or don't change them annually or at least biennially don't worry about it. After all breaking down on the water is no big deal as long as you have plenty of cold beer on board. If you're on the trailer and do decide to change your plugs...a rusted plug that snaps off in your engine head is also no big deal because, hey, you're not on the water.

In all seriousness. Regular maintenance on any vehicle is a good idea, saves money and aggravation and is recommended by the manufacturer. You can ignore this in your car/ truck and call AAA. You can ignore this in your boat and call SeaTow. You can ignore this in your plane and call God for an early reservation.

 

[MIKEP]

Okay but realistically how often do they say to change your plugs? Are we being over anal here?? Boats and jet ski milage is super low. How could plugs go bad in a couple year time period?

 

[Seadeals]

Plug condition is a very easy way to tell if something is changing or different between cylinders. By changing regularly, you get to inspect them and trend monitor your engine for any developing issues like a sticking valve or a crack that might be allowing water into the cylinder (eventual milkshake scenario). Excess oil on the plug or corrosion are easy to spot. I have been amazed at how smoothly a four cylinder engine can operate on three cylinders after compression goes bad on one. Sometimes hard to hear or see on the speedo and tach; but the plugs will give you an indication something is going on. Perhaps a better way of thinking about it is you know that everything is nominal and operating as it should. That’s just the way I prefer to hit the water, especially when leaving your trailer four hours behind in a different state.