Detailed 2016 242 LS $1k Audio Upgrade

[Mainah]

If I were to start fresh and stick to a budget upgrade I would still use the same wire and amps. I would skip the 6x9s in favor of the 6.5s in the black panels as @ Julian and others have done instead on that. The db sub did not perform well in that location and I would recommend trying an infinity bass link in the helm as @swatski did and likes or a JL free air where I did.

As for my current set up. I now have a polk mm sub instead of the db and have used some cheap closed cell foam sleeping pads to make it sealed by stuffing them in in between the inner and outer hull (I was going to make a custom rigid box between the hulls but heard that I could cause stress cracking so I did not do that). The foam made big difference but still not what I am looking for. I am going to build a sealed box under the starboard rear seat with another Polk MM mount into the box through the wall. I will then have two 10 inch Polk mms and another JL amp to kill fish with. I have also replaced all of the DBs with MMs. The MMs are louder and do sound better. In particular the 6x9 mms have more low end. If I were to start over with a bigger initial budget I would go all JL audio for the speakers but I can't justify the expense as it does sound good. In fact the DBs did sound good once amplified and I should have stopped there had I gotten the sub choice right but I had the bug.

 

[SierraWhiskey]

Thank you for the info @Mainah. Your write up is outstanding and I pretty much followed it for ordering the parts. I'm waiting on delivery now and will probably end up waiting to install for several weeks due to paranoia of actually cutting holes.

I bought the Rockford Fossgate tower speakers as previously mentioned in other post, new JL MX10IB5 sub, and just ordered (8) Polk MM651UM speakers to replace the stock and and 2 to the helm. I also bought the JL 800/8V2 amp and 400/4. I'm questioning the 400/4 and think I should have purchased the 600/6 so I had a little extra space if I decide to add a second sub in the future.

Due to your walk through, I ordered the 14 gauge Knuconceptz Karma SS speaker wire (200ft), 10 gauge (15ft), as well as 0 gauge power and ground. I also ordered the Audiofile distribution block you recommended. I then purchased the waterproof fuse block with 120amp fuse. For the Audiofile, I got an 80amp fuse for the JL 800/8 and a 40 amp for the 400/4, which is why I got the 120amp main fuse (to be mounted within 14 inches of the battery.

Last big thing I need to get is the marine board for mounting the amps and Audiofile. I can't seem to find anyplace that sells it and the ones on Amazon do not come in the sizes I need. Any suggestions?

Lastly, I'm still considering the Wetsounds WS420 eq so I can adjust 3 zones of volume, but may get individual volume knobs to save money. I can't believe how much I have spent on components and need to get control lol.

 

[Nick Hughes]

Thought I'd chime in here because I did follow @Mainah's design fairly close. What I ended up with:

8 JL Audio MX650
1 JL Audio MX10IB3
150' knuconcepts 14ga speaker (about 15' too much even for all 8 speakers new runs)
25' knuconcepts 4ga black/red power/ground.
15' knuconcepts 12ga speaker
Small knuconcepts inline fuse holder with 150amp
AudioPipe distribution block, 2 fuses each with 100 amp
M800/8v2 powers all boat speakers sans tweeters
M200/2 bridged to MX10IB3
1 remote dial for M200 (doesnt affect it as much as i thought)
Amp board made from 3/4" birch covered in flex seal (had both in the garage)

I still need to dial in the input sensitivity, I have all right at 50% right now, probably lower the bow and raise the platform channels.

Only thing I'm not sure on is the sub, should I have gone with the M10IB5? The IB3 bumps pretty good already, not turning back now.

 

[SierraWhiskey]

Sounds great @Nick Hughes. sounds like our setup will be basically the same other than the tower speakers. Did you leave the tower tweeters hooked up and bridges with the bow speakers (I think it's the bow speakers)?

 

[Nick Hughes]

The only wire I touched on the factory harness was the blue remote lead. I simply cut it and spliced in my new wire that I ran to 1 amp and then jumped that to the other amp. I was under the impression that the tweeters are direct to the factory amp, they do sound better once they get a little more power from the reduced load on that amp.

 

[Markk]

Yet another but distinct audio upgrade so I thought I would share. My self inflicted budget was $1k and I came really close to that. Long and detailed post so I will will lead with the photos and the rest of the detailed info is below.

New Speakers
View attachment 37447
View attachment 37448
View attachment 37449
View attachment 37450
View attachment 37451
View attachment 37452

Amp Board
View attachment 37453

Some of the install remnants
View attachment 37454

Parts

• 2 JL Audio m400/4 amps
• 1 Polk DB 1040 Sub (matches factory Polks and grilles)
• 1 Pair Polk DB 6x9s (matches factory Polks and grilles)
• 20 each feet power and 20 feet ground 0 AWG KnuKoncepts Kolossus Fleks Marine Power Wire (perhaps overkill given 90% efficient class D amps but with a nearly 20 foot run over or near the gas tank I did not think the chance of melting wire at a smaller gauge was somewhere I wanted to cut corners or save money)
• 110 feet 14 AWG KnuKoncepts marine speaker wire (perhaps overkill for the stock speakers but since running no splice runs from the new amps might as well go 14 gauge)
• 10 feet 12 AWG KnuKoncepts marine speaker wire (only needed 5 feet .. recommend 10 gauge for powerful subs or longer runs)
• 1 Knukoncepts large waterproof 0 AWG fuse holder for positive battery switch side of run
• AudioPipe combined power and ground block for amp side
• 5 feet each 4 AWG power and ground cable for fuse and ground block to amps
• KnuKoncepts speaker terminals (they have the tiny ones for the stock Polk DBs), power terminals, fuses
• 10 feet sump pump hose as protection conduit for power and ground wire where ran over gas tank and around engine bay access to batteries and switches
• 1 foot small PVC hose to trim factory cutout in helm compartment where cables run through for protection of wiring
• 1 sheet HDPE (Starboard) 3/4" x 24" x 36"
• Stainless Steel Fasteners picked up from local hardware store to fit everything exactly right
• 25' latex tubing (more than enough)
• No I am not connected to KnuKoncepts in anyway. They simply sell superior craftsmanship and performing wiring products. Note the speaker wire is difficult to strip so be gentle with a sharp blade on the outer casing to score the wire then flex it to pull the outer casing off.

Unique Install Details

• Cut custom 2 inch increased outside diameter backing rings out of the HDPE for all speakers (new and stock) to give a something for the screws to bite into and to help reduced fiberglass deflection. Used counter sunk set screws to hold them in place.
• New holes in fiberglass for the sub and 6x9s were cut very clean by first mounting the backing rings with the set screws and then using a trim router with a bearing straight bit to follow the backing rings as templates. Super clean cutouts this way but HUGE mess. Cleaned up with a shop vac connected to a dust deputy so as not to clog the filter. Respirator and disposable painters suit were worn and are highly recommend by me when cutting fiberglass.
• Ran new speaker wire to everything except rear deck and tower. Zip tied to stock harness for secure wiring install.
• Center compression crimps on all speaker and poor wire terminals that were not a screw connection
• Tinned all wire after stripped and prior to termination by dipping in molten solder inside of a one inch copper pipe end cap
• Added latex tubing drip lines for all mid cabin cupholders and used a cable wall flange and silicone to make a drip line for the small storage tray behind the throttles since it is over my new sub.
• Custom HDPE amp board with through hole wiring management, back of the board zip ties, and all edges and holes front and back round over routed to prevent any sharp edges for anyone reach into the helm or on the wires as they are run through the holes.
• Added digital voltage gauge for the start battery (the red and round led gauge in the photo since the power and ground distribution block I choose had a built in gauge and is of course wired to the house battery. This allows me to check on the start battery since the connext only shows the house.
• The two circuit boards are for my custom push button start system ... https://jetboaters.net/threads/push-button-start-mod-it-works-with-video-and-full-instructions.9371/#post-160607

Wiring Details

• Amp 1 connected to front speaker RCA output from head unit
• Amp 2 connected to pre out from Amp 1
• Rear speakers still connected to stock head unit (note that will have to splice plus and minus on stock rear cabin wiring as the rear deck were run in series from the factory with these)
• Tower tweeters still connected to stock head unit
• Sub connected to bridged channel one and two from amp 1
• Stock 6 inch and new 6x9s each connected to own amp channel from amp 1 or 2
• Main power wire run to house battery switch with line water proof case mounted 150 amp fuse 12 inches from switch
• 2 group 31 AGM batteries (1 start, 1 house)
• NOCO Genius 2 bank 10 amp each bank on board charger

Results

• Huge improvement in sound quality and volume
• Before the upgrade we could barely hear the speakers at cruise except for the tower and now very full range and loud sound at cruise.
• Still some headroom in amps with head unit balance a little to the rear so the rear deck gets the power it needs from the head unit.
• Tower tweeters no longer overwhelm and are actually a benefit with this setup (head unit balanced a little to the rear)
• Stock speakers including the rear deck are much louder and cleaner with full range sound (high pass amp crossover set at 80 hz)
• 6x9s really help out the mid bass (high pass amp crossover set at 50 hz)
• Seems very power efficient so far. Three hours with amps on at various levels yesterday and still plenty of house juice left.
• Should have gone with a better sub and better sub location for better sound. Since the location is already cut I will likely upgrade the sub to the mm um series which will have the same mounting holes and I will be able to use the DB grill. Polk mm um sub also requires less mounting depth
• Sub location (same as 242x but opposite side) causes outer hull deflection and I am going reinforce by epoxy encasing a couple of 24 inch lengths of aluminum flat bar behind the sub to the hull.
• Nice part is can always upgrade to the mm um series for any of the speakers in the future with minimal effort in the future if desired or add another amp, tower cans, and another sub. Think I will enjoy it for now given I have spent more time doing mods than on the water so far.

Hope this post helps someone out with ideas or helps someone looking to attempt their first marine audio upgrade.

Edit- Important fact that I should add for how I mounted the amps and did the wiring. I am one of those annoying lean fitness types that can squeeze in the helm. I face the bow stick my right leg and arm in, squat while squeezing my hips/butt/torso/head through, pull my left leg in while crouched, spin 180 degrees on the balls of my feet, sit on the throwable pfd as a cushion, realize I forgot the tool I needed on the swim deck, curse and repeat.

Thanks for the detailed write up.

I just bought the AudioPipe distribution block. It looked better than the one I previously picked out. Could you help me with finding correct fuses for it? They're not ANL style. Looks like a bigger size of round fuses than I'm used to seeing. Did you buy fuses from Amazon?

If this is in the write up above and I missed it, apologize in advance.

 

[Nick Hughes]

Thanks for the detailed write up.

I just bought the AudioPipe distribution block. It looked better than the one I previously picked out. Could you help me with finding correct fuses for it? They're not ANL style. Looks like a bigger size of round fuses than I'm used to seeing. Did you buy fuses from Amazon?

If this is in the write up above and I missed it, apologize in advance.

These are the ones I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DUKYU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Mainah]

These are the ones I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DUKYU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Same ones I bought except in 50 amp.

 

[SierraWhiskey]

Thanks for the detailed write up.

I just bought the AudioPipe distribution block. It looked better than the one I previously picked out. Could you help me with finding correct fuses for it? They're not ANL style. Looks like a bigger size of round fuses than I'm used to seeing. Did you buy fuses from Amazon?

If this is in the write up above and I missed it, apologize in advance.

@Markk , as @Mainah and @Nick Hughes said, I bought the DBLink fuses also, however check each amp (assuming you have 2 amps or you wouldn't need the audiopipe distribution block) to see what the rating is and buy the size each amp is rated for. As an example, I bought the JL Audio M800/8 (80 amp fuse) and 400/4 amps (40 amp fuse). You should use a main fuse block, such as https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y17SHTE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The main fuse should be mounted within 14 inches of the battery with a fuse rated at the total of both amps, and then the audiopipe outputs to each amp fused at their individual ratings. For me, that would be 80 amps for the 800/8, 40 amps for the 400/4, and main fuse at 120 amps.

 

[SierraWhiskey]

@Mainah , do you remember your final amp board dimensions? I know you bought 36" x 24" hdpe starboard. I don't have the boat at my house at the moment and am thinking my board is too large to fit. Perfect timing to check "after" I mounted the amps.

 

[Markk]

Did anyone successfully tie in their 150amp audio service to the factory dual battery selector switch found on 242ls? I was considering adding an isolated circuit breaker/switch just for audio system, but would rather not add another switch to turn if I can incorporate into factory battery selector.

Looks like I will need to upsize cable from house battery to selector switch if I go this route.

Here is photo of a isolated circuit breaker I might use if I can't use factory.

 

[Markk]

Found in another post. Looks like physically I can connect.

Not sure of Ratings of the DVSR factory switches....

 

[Mainah]

@Mainah , do you remember your final amp board dimensions? I know you bought 36" x 24" hdpe starboard. I don't have the boat at my house at the moment and am thinking my board is too large to fit. Perfect timing to check "after" I mounted the amps.

I don't recall. I do know that I had to cut down what I bought on a table saw. I also did a 1/8 or 1/4 round over on all of the edges and holes on both sides.

 

[Nick Hughes]

I made my board 24x24.

 

[Markk]

Just ordered these plastic speaker rings to try as backer rings. At $7 I figured worth the risk. I'll report back after I try them with my MX650s

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-82-4300-Universal-Speaker-Brackets/dp/B0002BG6QY

 

[Mainah]

So I have had some quality alone time out on the lake and sat in different places in the boat. The best sounding seats in the house are the rear cabin. I am fully convinced that I need add speakers in the recesses like others have done. I likely will not add a second sub as more bass would make the system too bass heavy for my liking. I will update again on my hopefully final configuration when I get it done. and thoughts on the best balanced price/performance upgrade options given my learnings.

 

[scokill]

Nice setup. I just replaced a 7 year old Kicker 5 channel amp with the JL Audio M600/6 and the difference in sound and clarity if staggering. It's also about 1/3 of the size. I have it bridged with 200w going to one tower speaker, 200w in the other tower speaker, and 200w going to my sub enclosure. I can wholeheartedly recommend the JL amps.

 

[Markk]

Just ordered these plastic speaker rings to try as backer rings. At $7 I figured worth the risk. I'll report back after I try them with my MX650s

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-82-4300-Universal-Speaker-Brackets/dp/B0002BG6QY

 

[Markk]

Just ordered these plastic speaker rings to try as backer rings. At $7 I figured worth the risk. I'll report back after I try them with my MX650s

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-82-4300-Universal-Speaker-Brackets/dp/B0002BG6QY

Installed rings and MX650s today. Holes in rings match Polk holes. New JL holes bite into plastic ring securely. I'll be ordering more.

 

[SierraWhiskey]

@Markk , your putting these on backside of the fiberglass, not as a space Ron the frontside? If so, are they difficult to feed through some other opening and hold in place while attaching speaker?