Engine Hatch Foam Replacement

[vxooxv]

@Trevor Shipman what did you end up going with? @Seadeals what garage sealer do you reference, i can't find a link to it in this thread. I'm about to start replacing my foam / seal on my '06 210.

 

[Trevor Shipman]

I went with a 3” self sticking foam from Amazon, it’s held up great and WOW what an improvement. Highly highly suggest!

 

[vxooxv]

I went with a 3” self sticking foam from Amazon, it’s held up great and WOW what an improvement. Highly highly suggest!

The same stuff you linked? What about the rubber seals on the edge?

 

[Trevor Shipman]

Yes the same link. For the rubber seal I just grabbed something at lowes by the garage door sealers

 

[Seadeals]

I bought a garage door seal too; but have preferred to use the soft dark gray pipe insulation with adhesive on the edges for the 210 contours. It eventually fell down along the top after several seasons of heat; but I just didn’t feel I would be able to get the garage seal to stick. I had matching gray duct tape to cover the splice that wasn’t in a corner.

 

[Jeff L]

I have been very happy two layers of something like this

Noico Green 170 mil 36 sqft Сar Waterproof Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell PE Foam Deadening Material (1/6'' Thick Sound Deadener) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYLM47D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4XRNCb3ZD5DV7

The two layers combined add up to something similar to @Beachbummer ’s product.

I removed the hood and used paint scrapers and stiff scrubbing brushes to remove the old foam.

Bruce,
I'm considering replacing my foam this year (2017 212ls). Are you happy with this product? Thanks. Jeff

 

[Bruce]

Bruce,
I'm considering replacing my foam this year (2017 212ls). Are you happy with this product? Thanks. Jeff

Three years later it is still holding on and reducing decibels.

 

[Cap Ray]

I ordered this foam to replace my engine hatch foam which is not in good shape. 54 inches by 54 and 2 inches thick. I have plenty to replace all of the hatch area that is falling off, and I might apply to the side walls of the bilge area that is currently carpeted. This piece is huge, sold by McMaster-Carr.

In the pic, I propped it up against the door frame to give some perspective. I ordered w/o adhesive
View attachment 155280View attachment 155281

Wow!! I just posted a similar situation..... with my 2006 FourWinns 224. I wish I would have stumbled on this thread earlier. You're were in the same egg crate situation that I'm currently in! I'm trying to figure out what to use spray adhesive or insulation hangers in regards to my engine hatch underside. How is this holding up so far? My post is HERE I'm going to read on! Thanks.

 

[VitaminSea]

Saw this thread back at the top…
Just wanted to add a data point, I followed @Seadeals post above, and installed the Fatmat and Foam. Almost 3 year later (installed in April 2020), it seems to be holding up well (hopefully I didn’t jinx myself).

https://jetboaters.net/threads/engine-hatch-foam-replacement.21359/post-364207

 

[granpachuck]

Wow!! I just posted a similar situation..... with my 2006 FourWinns 224. I wish I would have stumbled on this thread earlier. You're were in the same egg crate situation that I'm currently in! I'm trying to figure out what to use spray adhesive or insulation hangers in regards to my engine hatch underside. How is this holding up so far? My post is HERE I'm going to read on! Thanks.

Holding up great. I used this loctite spray, professional version. Heat resistant so the glue won't melt . Good luck. BTW, I loved my fourwinns horizon, came close to getting a 23 footer. Solid boats.

 

[Cap Ray]

Holding up great. I used this loctite spray, professional version. Heat resistant so the glue won't melt . Good luck. BTW, I loved my fourwinns horizon, came close to getting a 23 footer. Solid boats.

Thanks.... That's Awesome! Good to know that the Loctite Professional is holding up. Worst thing about this job will be a ton of masking off everything for spraying. I have a couple questions if you don't mind?
1) Did the Loctite grab good enough to where it didn't need to be held in place by pressure?
2) How many coats did you need to put on eack side? The underside of my hatch is fiberglass/gelcoat.
I really love my 2006 FourWinns 224 Funship deckboat. It's been a great boat for all these years and still looks like new. Thanks again, appreciate your input on this. Ray

 

[Cap Ray]

Saw this thread back at the top…
Just wanted to add a data point, I followed @Seadeals post above, and installed the Fatmat and Foam. Almost 3 year later (installed in April 2020), it seems to be holding up well (hopefully I didn’t jinx myself).

https://jetboaters.net/threads/engine-hatch-foam-replacement.21359/post-364207

Awesome!!

 

[granpachuck]

Thanks.... That's Awesome! Good to know that the Loctite Professional is holding up. Worst thing about this job will be a ton of masking off everything for spraying. I have a couple questions if you don't mind?
1) Did the Loctite grab good enough to where it didn't need to be held in place by pressure?
2) How many coats did you need to put on eack side? The underside of my hatch is fiberglass/gelcoat.
I really love my 2006 FourWinns 224 Funship deckboat. It's been a great boat for all these years and still looks like new. Thanks again, appreciate your input on this. Ray

The loctite does grab without much pressure, but I held it in place by hand and some straps for a few minutes. Its awkward to hold it against the hatch unless your remove it. It even held against the Kilmat I used as the first layer against the fiberglass. Kilmat is more for vibration, the foam is sound absorbing. I think I put on decent coat on each surface, just followed the instructions on the can.
The masking is a good idea, and I had some acetone and rags handy for cleanup. I had some wide blue painters tape, and it wasn't as messy as I thought it might be.

 

[Cap Ray]

Thanks..... Good to know that it has good grab. Holding it in place would be fairly awkward for sure. My hatch is so dog gone heavy, if it wasn't for that I would definitely remove it. Also good to hear that it's less messy than one would think. I guess in my mind, I see nothing but overspray being an issue. I'm just thinking of using plenty of visqueen along with the painters tape along with removing everything that's not tied down. Kilmat looks to be a great dampener for sure. Thanks for your input, appreciate it, Ray

 

[Seadeals]

Update on mine: hatch foam is still doing great. I have replaced the pipe insulation as the foam started to move down with repeated cycles of the adhesive getting hot - mostly just coming off at the walkthrough dip. Biggest pain was cleaning up all the old adhesive to get a good fresh bond.

 

[Cap Ray]

Update on mine: hatch foam is still doing great. I have replaced the pipe insulation as the foam started to move down with repeated cycles of the adhesive getting hot - mostly just coming off at the walkthrough dip. Biggest pain was cleaning up all the old adhesive to get a good fresh bond.

Thanks! Good to hear that the hatch foam is holding up! High heat and adhesive would be extremely hard to control. I bet it was a P.I.A. to clean up but, you did it right by doing so. I'm not sure yet how bad my foam adhesive on the underside of my hatch is going to be to clean. Half of my foam has already come loose and surface looks pretty clean. With that being said, I will make sure I clean it well anyway. As you know, prep is usually the worst part of the job and takes the longest. By the way, what did yu use for adhesive on your egg crate foam? Thanks again, appreciate your feedback! Ray

 

[Seadeals]

I used a 3M spray contact adhesive for that. Not sure exactly which one but remember spraying both surfaces, letting it dry a while and then sticking it down onto the fatmat.

 

[Cap Ray]

I used a 3M spray contact adhesive for that. Not sure exactly which one but remember spraying both surfaces, letting it dry a while and then sticking it down onto the fatmat.

Thanks.... 3M does make some awesome adhesives. They have soooo many, it's hard to make a choice. All they recommended to me was the 08090 Super Trim Adhesive which has very good tack & heat resistance. I found it online anywhere from $28.00 to $42.00 for a 19oz. can. 3M states that my application calls for three coats per surface. With that being said, I would need around 14 cans coming in at approx. $400.00... WoW!! HOLY MOLY!! I would think that they would have more that just that one that would work. Granpachuck here, had great luck so far with Loctite Professional holding up which comes in with a much lesser price tag and uses less. Great to know that 3M is holding up as well. Thanks again, appreciate the help. Ray