Fix for Connext Battery Voltage Issue - Confirmed

[Mainah]

@BBottoms is correct. The gateway needs the power wires as the input.

 

[swatski]

You've got it backwards. The SPU needs to have the voltage input at that terminal, not to the wire. The SYS wire already has voltage from the Auxillary battert. You'll have to cut the wire and splice into the SPU side or somehow put the temp wire from the system battery into the plug at the SPU.

@BBottoms is correct. The gateway needs the power wires as the input.

Thanks guys! I figured I was doing something moronic, but I was loosing daylight. Wanted to make sure I splice it the right way.
Take two tomorrow.

BTW - I also cut the DVSR loop, so I can "smart" charge the batteries, I'm happy.
Didn't install a switch yet, but just cutting the loop takes the DVSR out, as you have been saying. Re-closing the loop (while charging) pops the DVSR right back on. I will be darned.

 

[Mainah]

@swatski - You may know this but with the red wire cut you won't charge with the eninges running until you hook up to the engine on wire or install a switch. Would suck for your stereo to cut out during a long day on the water.

In the photos of your batteries on the previous page I see what appear to leads with inline glass fuse holders off the battery posts. If you can avoid using glass fuses in those spring loaded holders and use waterproof mini ato instead that is something that I recommend. Are those leads for your charger? If so what brand is it? I can tell yout that my NOCO has waterproof ato inlines.

I do have glass fuses in my boat but those are snapped into my amp distribution block where all of the contacts are gold plated press fit, the fuse ends are gold plated, and the block is vibration protected and mounted firmly.

I also carry a spare for every fuse in the boat.

On the connext voltage thing I recommend running wires from both batteries into the corresponding connector on the gateway. This will ensure accurate readings without the spu interfering with either. You can buy barrel terminals online that will fit into that wire harness connector if you dont want to cut and splice.

Thanks for taking photos and sharing.

 

[swatski]

@swatski - You may know this but with the red wire cut you won't charge with the eninges running until you hook up to the engine on wire or install a switch. Would suck for your stereo to cut out during a long day on the water.

In the photos of your batteries on the previous page I see what appear to leads with inline glass fuse holders off the battery posts. If you can avoid using glass fuses in those spring loaded holders and use waterproof mini ato instead that is something that I recommend. Are those leads for your charger? If so what brand is it? I can tell yout that my NOCO has waterproof ato inlines.

I do have glass fuses in my boat but those are snapped into my amp distribution block where all of the contacts are gold plated press fit, the fuse ends are gold plated, and the block is vibration protected and mounted firmly.

I also carry a spare for every fuse in the boat.

On the connext voltage thing I recommend running wires from both batteries into the corresponding connector on the gateway. This will ensure accurate readings without the spu interfering with either. You can buy barrel terminals online that will fit into that wire harness connector if you dont want to cut and splice.

Thanks for taking photos and sharing.

Re: charger, ProMariner 2-bank, yes the fuses are factory. I did not even think of it -- thank you again for awesome advice! Oh, will definitely do the swap!


Re: DVSR loop, yes I am aware the batteries are not going to charge while running. I will be installing a switch, just wanted to get it disconnected while on a shore charger over the winter. I see the Engine on purple wire, but wasn't sure, again, which side to splice, or do I just T-splice into it?

Re: C0nnext -- just to confirm -- I will NOT be T-splicing into the red SYS Batt wire, correct?

Thank you so much for taking the time to give advice here, much appreciated!

 

[Mainah]

DVSR- test which side of the red loop has +12vdc with batteries connected. Cap off that side (I used marine heat shrink). T splice into the engine on wire (i used a silicone filled quick splice) and butt splice to remaining red loop end (I did a twist and knot splice with marine heat shrink as a insulator). Marine heat shrink has a hotglue layer on the inside so when you heat it the glue melts as the tubing shrinks.

Connext- Cut input wires and cap off side from SPU. Butt splice wires directly from batteries on remaining inputs into the gateway. Alternatively buy correct crimp on pins for the connector. Remove and cap original input wire going into the connector. Crimp pins onto new wires direct from batteries and insert into the connector.

Charger glass inline fuses- May not ever bother as is so more of something to be aware of down the road and replace if needed. Just avoid using that type where you can. If someone is debating NOCO vs. promariner here is a minus for the pro mariner. I think the NOCO lead wire guage is barley adequate as a minus for the NOCO.

Good luck. Feel free to PM if you get stuck.

 

[swatski]

Connext- Cut input wires and cap off side from SPU. Butt splice wires directly from batteries on remaining inputs into the gateway. Alternatively buy correct crimp on pins for the connector. Remove and cap original input wire going into the connector. Crimp pins onto new wires direct from batteries and insert into the connector.

I think it worked!
I guess what had me confused was I was thinking of the gateway as a SPU...
But think I got it right this time. I soldered and heat shrinked with a bit of silicon (since I am old fashioned and low tech, as you know, LOL).


Looked good (playing with connection on bat terminals: sys connection off, aux off, both off, both on, and both on after few hours of blasting my stereo w/o charging):

 

[swatski]

Charger glass inline fuses- May not ever bother as is so more of something to be aware of down the road and replace if needed. Just avoid using that type where you can. If someone is debating NOCO vs. promariner here is a minus for the pro mariner. I think the NOCO lead wire guage is barley adequate as a minus for the NOCO.

I broke two glass fuses on one battery connections just trying to open the inline holders to check them out...
Those are definitely getting replaced with mini blades. Thanks again for heads up!

--

 

[swatski]

DVSR- test which side of the red loop has +12vdc with batteries connected. Cap off that side (I used marine heat shrink). T splice into the engine on wire (i used a silicone filled quick splice) and butt splice to remaining red loop end (I did a twist and knot splice with marine heat shrink as a insulator). Marine heat shrink has a hotglue layer on the inside so when you heat it the glue melts as the tubing shrinks.

I think I also fixed that (post #30):
https://jetboaters.net/threads/installing-3-bank-charger-on-2016-e-series.11830/page-2#post-203516

 

[Bill D]

@swatski X2 on the in-line glass fuse holders. I had the one that came on my 12V Acc outlet fall apart this summer at Shelbyville. Those things are beyond cheap.

 

[Mainah]

Nice! It works! As far as I know you are the first person who has completed this mod and shown proof. Unfortunately it is buried it this thread. I will update the start of the thread.

I would make sure to fuse the battery side of the two wires you ran for connext 3-12 inches from the battery terminal. Having that new wire get cut somehow and short out without a fuse would be a bad thing. Might as well hit up amazon for a multi pack of inline waterproof mini ato fuse holders and fuses.

 

[Mainah]

Two more things. I would label the battery side of those wire so that get hooked back up to the correct ones if disconnected. I would be interested to see what readings emergency combine produces when first turned on and ten minutes later (engines not running) as well as readings with engines running in the water and emergency combine off with DVSR on.

 

[OperationROL]

Nice! It works! As far as I know you are the first person who has completed this mod and shown proof. Unfortunately it is buried it this thread. I will update the start of the thread.

I would make sure to fuse the battery side of the two wires you ran for connext 3-12 inches from the battery terminal. Having that new wire get cut somehow and short out without a fuse would be a bad thing. Might as well hit up amazon for a multi pack of inline waterproof mini ato fuse holders and fuses.

What size fuse are you suggesting?

 

[OperationROL]

I think it worked!
I guess what had me confused was I was thinking of the gateway as a SPU...
But think I got it right this time. I soldered and heat shrinked with a bit of silicon (since I am old fashioned and low tech, as you know, LOL).
View attachment 48539

Looked good (playing with connection on bat terminals: sys connection off, aux off, both off, both on, and both on after few hours of blasting my stereo w/o charging):
View attachment 48540View attachment 48541
View attachment 48542View attachment 48543
View attachment 48544

This is awesome!!!!

 

[swatski]

Nice! It works! As far as I know you are the first person who has completed this mod and shown proof. Unfortunately it is buried it this thread. I will update the start of the thread.

I would make sure to fuse the battery side of the two wires you ran for connext 3-12 inches from the battery terminal. Having that new wire get cut somehow and short out without a fuse would be a bad thing. Might as well hit up amazon for a multi pack of inline waterproof mini ato fuse holders and fuses.

Two more things. I would label the battery side of those wire so that get hooked back up to the correct ones if disconnected. I would be interested to see what readings emergency combine produces when first turned on and ten minutes later (engines not running) as well as readings with engines running in the water and emergency combine off with DVSR on.

Excellent points! Don't know why I did not think of it myself, LOL.

I used my trusty 16 AWG speaker wire, which I admit I have been using a lot for LED cockpit lighting and such, and one of the wires has that white strip so I can follow it from end to end. BUT, down the road things tend to get messy, and I think it is indeed IMPERATIVE to label and fuse those things.

Thanks again for excellent, excellent advice here. That has me hooked on this site.

--

 

[Scottintexas]

added to the FAQ,
having a 2007 boat I have not kept up with all the new technology or read all the posts,
if you ever feel a topic needs to be added just email me or the admins and we will be glad to include it,

 

[buckbuck]

Will someone please call Yamaha and tell them @Mainah fixed their boats?

 

[Mainah]

What size fuse are you suggesting?

2 or 3 amp should do. The draw should be very low so really just protecting against shorts.

 

[elcue]

This was like reading Chinese for me. Great work guys that you fixed something. I don't know what it was but sounds great haha.

 

[Mainah]

I have gotten a few questions on how to do this pertaining where to cut, where to connect, and where to cap off . I just made a quick and dead simple graphic at the start of the thread that should clear that up which is how @swatiski did his. There are other ways to make the connections but this will satisfy 95% of those looking to do this. For the more advanced folks out there familiar with crimping on new pins and inserting into the pack I am sure you can figure it out.

 

[ADSA95]

I just bought a 2017 242X E-series should I expect to have this problem? If so I would think that it would be something the dealer should be fixing. Any guidance on how to check for this prior to me taking delivery of the boat in the spring? Thanks