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Fixing the screws on the cleanout tray...

tdonoughue

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
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Location
The Woodlands, TX 77381
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2012
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
One of today's projects was addressing the screws around the perimeter of the cleanout tray:
PXL_20220806_163332067.jpg
after I learned about rivet nuts existing here on the board. The screws are mostly stripped. Some aren't even holding anything. So I acquired:

I pulled off the tray, redrilled some of the holes around the perimeter to the right size so the rivet nut would just fit:
PXL_20220806_164215005.jpg
Fixed up the tool, put it in the rivet, squeezed hard and PING. Um, it came out.
PXL_20220806_164516251.jpg
So, obviously these are made to grab something much thinner than the fiberglass here (I suspected that--hadn't measured before I ordered, but thought, it's not more than 2mm, right? um, wrong).

And, the holes at the forward side of the hatch were not drillable...
PXL_20220806_164951126.jpg
So things were not going completely swimmingly. I readjusted the tool, squeezed less, and was able to get the rivet nuts to basically expand in the middle of the drilled hole and hold fast. So I drilled the rest of the holes I could and...
PXL_20220806_165513019.jpg
Put the tray back and...
PXL_20220806_170236271.jpg
Was very excited to be able to tighten most of the new bolts down solidly. Tray is much better than it was, but not perfect yet.

A couple of learnings:
- Probably needed more like a 1" bolt rather than the 1/2" I got. A couple of the aft bolts weren't long enough to grab.
- Since there was not enough material to drill the forward ones, I had to leave the screws there (not that they are doing much). But that now means I need two tools to open the tray. So, those new 1" bolts I will get? Will get them phillips heads...
- Considering a blind nut or something for the forward few. Maybe epoxy them on the inside or something. Still working on that (and open to ideas).
 
put a fender washer on the bottom side of the rivet nut before you pull it up.
 
put a fender washer on the bottom side of the rivet nut before you pull it up.
Good idea. But look at the space on the photo up there. I think the crimp is happening in the middle of the fiberglass. I don't think it will even grab a fender washer. But keep those ideas coming...
 
jacknut should work but you may not find them in stainless
 
Yeah... That is why I was excited over the rivnuts. Did find a jacknut in stainless, but it was a 10 size and poorly rated. I'm gonna keep looking, tho.
 
Someone else used speed nuts - that might solve your issue along the backside where the hole is so close to the edge (and somewhat help keep that damaged area together). They don't look like the fit and finish is as nice as those rivet nuts (@diehard those look to be an awesome suggestion you had), but I don't know what else would work, without doing some repair work on that fiberglass.

@tdonoughue I really like the way your tray looks, not sure if that's inset, but any other water leaking in back there looks like adding sealant or a gasket would finish it off. A riser for the inspection hatch might be the only other thing, but nothing wrong with testing it and adding as needed until you're satisfied.

DId you add a sealant to the cleanout port tubes when you reinstalled the tray? I know I had some on my tubes when I removed mine, and it was a bear to get off before I figured out that it was on there, and ran a radiator hose removal tool around it as best I could.
 
I actually have a thin weatherstripping around the perimeter of the tray already. That and some other fit and finish took care of most of my water intrusion issues. Most of the time I pull the plug it is dry. The tray is inset a little, removed all the sealant there. And never have put sealant on the cleanout ports or the drain tube--just re-tighten the band clamps.

But the screws were actually coming up out of the tray, so that is why I undertook this task. Don't have water coming in, but equally don't want it to start...
 
That tray Inspection port and drain is such a poor design and is the number one reason when you pull your drain plug and water comes out. Crank your tongue jack up, if it’s on a negative grade but some wood under it get the bow up so water can drain out the transom plug. Put a cork in the clean out tray fill the tray with water and watch how fast it drains into the bilge the inspection port looks like it seals but does nothing. The drain does the opposite while doing a lot of stop and go for water sports the water from pressure fills the tray. Ever wonder why you go to pull your clean out plugs at the end of the day and they have water sitting on them. When the water backs into the tray it finds the low points and weeps into the bilge the low points are the clean out tray seam. I will post up how to seal it and the one way spa valve that was used.
 
Added a neoprene gassket under the clean out tray and inspection port pre drilled and had tighten the screws so they dont strip


first attempt.jpeg


sealing it.jpg

added a one way valve

20210601_184119.jpg
 
Yeah... That is why I was excited over the rivnuts. Did find a jacknut in stainless, but it was a 10 size and poorly rated. I'm gonna keep looking, tho.
Try Fastenal. I may have to do something similar for my head unit. Unit isn't level, top right hole is at the edge of the cut out. Would like to reinforce it.
 
Yeah, didn't find the right size (and they are all zinc) at Fastenal. Not saying I wouldn't put zinc on my boat, but not *there* of all places. Ordered some stainless blind nuts. Figure I can at the very least epoxy them... Plus 1" bolts.
 
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