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The handles are the stock ones that come on the newer boats. My boat is a '17 212 Limited S and it has those handles in the boat. That's why I ordered two more of the stock ones when I wanted to add some to the back of the boat.
The handles are the stock ones that come on the newer boats. My boat is a '17 212 Limited S and it has those handles in the boat. That's why I ordered two more of the stock ones when I wanted to add some to the back of the boat.
@gmtech16450yz - I am looking to mount a VHF antenna to my tower cross member similar to the way you did. Did you drill and tap or go all the way through and use a nut on the other side? If you drilled and tapped approximately how thick is the wall of the crossmember (I am assuming it is hollow)? Thanks for sharing all of your great mods.
Hey thank you too Mainah, I've seen plenty of your helpful informative posts on here and appreciate them too!
Those "blocks" in between the tubes are actually solid aluminum. I drilled and tapped them, probably 1/2" deep I'm thinking but I don't remember. I didn't go through and still had plenty of depth for enough threads. I used 1/4-20 bolts. That antenna mount ain't goin nowhere! Have fun!
Let me know if you need more pics of how I mounted it or any other info.
The other mod I did I didn't take any pictures of because it was kind of hidden.
When I was putting the cupholder/rod holders in the front of the boat, I noticed that there was a lot of open area in the bow with big, noisy panels. I walked around the front of the boat and knocked on the fiberglass on the bow. It made a TON of hollow noise. You could actually distort the bow by pushing on the fiberglass in the areas behind and below the tip of the bow. I took the inside trim panels off and looked in the speaker holes towards the front of the boat, there was NO carpet or insulation of any type in the whole front of the boat. All those panels behind the bow and in the anchor compartment are just free to rattle against each other and transmit noise. I don't like noise. lol.
So I cut up a few big chunks of the mattress foam I had. (If you look at my first picture in this thread you can see the foam I put under the floor panel that covers the gas tank.) I stuffed the foam chunks up into the inside of the bow and around the anchor compartment. I also put foam under where the floor compartment meets the step at the front of the boat where the cupholders are. I then filled all the extra voids with spray expanding foam, like 6 or 8 cans worth! So the entire front of the boat is filled with a combination of closed cell type mattress or memory foam and expanding spray foam.
The result? The whole front of the boat feels a TON more solid. If you knock on the outside of the bow, it feels solid as a rock. The upper parts around the anchor compartment feel solid instead of hollow, and the anchor compartment panels themselves are also solid instead of rattling. I also insulated where the anchor itself hangs in the compartment so it doesn't bang on the panels. Will any of this be noticeable when I'm out in the boat? I think it will be. I have heard "noise" from the bow area over choppy water that sounded like hollow fiberglass panels. I have a feeling those noises will be gone. I'll find out this weekend, it's actually going to be nice and sunny so we're thinking about exploring the Delta up to Sacramento.
Thanks again guys, I hope some of these mods encourage you to expand your skill set a little and/or end up enjoying your boat a little more!
I decided over the weekend - I'm definitely doing this. I think that your idea of using a combination of foam pieces and expanding polyurethane is the winner. These foam pieces may get water/moisture logged over time but can be removed and replaced.
Thanks again for sharing, I LOVE reading your posts.
Haha no problem guys, I'm happy to share. I'm almost finished with my latest and probably my last boat mods. I ran the engines today, exhaust sounds super quiet, temp gauges work and all the electrical system changes I made work like they should.
Water pressure gauges didn't move of course since when running on a hose there's plenty of places for the water to flow out of. It will be interesting to see what the pressures show when it's in the water. The reason I did the pressure gauges is I'm hoping it will easily show any problems with water flow through the engines. I've had 2 situations so far where I didn't have water going through the engine and had no way of knowing it until the over temp warning came on. (I'm not going to watch the side of the boat constantly to make sure water is coming out.) Oh and my blower fan re-do works awesome, when the engines are idling and the fans are on low speed you can't even hear them running. So I'll have tons of fresh air moving through the engine compartment whenever they're running.
I mentioned these might be my "last" (lol. not likely.) boat mods. That's because yesterday my wife and I bought a bad@ss brand new Class A motorhome. So that's going to get my attention for a little while. It should be interesting trying to launch a 21 foot boat with a 28 foot motorhome! Yikes.
I'm not too worried about the exhaust system heat, they don't get very hot at all with the water going through them. I put my hand on my cat converter aluminum housings with the engine idling and they were actually cold from the water. I'll put links to the hoses and clamps in my other thread.
So - for anyone with a 190 or 240 - the cleanout plug hatch plastic cover/ opening is about 2-3 inches more NARROW as compared to 212!
Keep that in mind when you are insulating your water boxes, make sure they fit back in before you go crazy.
The "water boxes" are a form of muffler, I believe. No? I'm more used to inboard and I/O boats and those would be considered a waterlock style of wet muffler
@gmtech16450yz not many people have gone the “add on muffler” route and I’m wondering why. It doesn’t seem overly complicated and in my 195 it seems like there’s ample room if I ran the hoses around the clean out tube and it looks as if it would mate back to the resonator for the stock exit. Do the mufflers not make as much of a difference or would a longer exhaust run create other problems?
@gmtech16450yz , can you tell me more about the Moroso mufflers. I think they may be just what I need to quiet my engines but don’t know the part number, cost or if I need to buy more than just the mufflers and clamps. I assume that I can just cut a part of the oem exhaust piping out and replace the cutouts with these mufflers is this correct?
@gmtech16450yz , can you tell me more about the Moroso mufflers. I think they may be just what I need to quiet my engines but don’t know the part number, cost or if I need to buy more than just the mufflers and clamps. I assume that I can just cut a part of the oem exhaust piping out and replace the cutouts with these mufflers is this correct?
Ronnie, @gmtech16450yz did a complete re-route of his exhaust system under the clean out plug tray. So much so that the port engine exhausts out the starboard side and starboard engine exhaust exits out the port exhaust opening. Great mod. but a little more work than just cutting them in.