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I just replaced both my ignition switches due to my port switch having a cracked shaft resulting in it not staying in place after being tightened, similar issue to what @Kevin M experienced. The ignition switch functioned properly once held in place. I could not find a single switch, they come as a match pair from Yamanha, also could not find an aftermarket direct replacement, that is why I replaced both switches.
I kept the good switch and if you want it I would be willing to sell it to you for $50 delivered, it will come with 4 keys. From the parts diagrams it looks like the 2005 and the 2007 use the same switches.
For any others facing the same issue, I was on the phone a few times with Yamaha and their "solution" was to use the newer part (which contains two key switches and a new wiring harness which does not fit the existing - 2007 in my case - AR 230 wiring harness), take the new switches and remove them from the assembly then splice them into the existing 5 conductor molded plug using bullet type connections. I have attached pictures below of the new switch assembly which I removed by carefully cutting the clear insulation around the bullet connectors, disconnecting the bullet connections, cutting the failed keyswitch from the 5 conductor molded connector which DOES fit into my existing wire harness. I have ordered a set of bullet connectors to crimp onto the wires of the existing 5 conductor molded plug and will then connect the new keyswitch to the old molded plug and likely put heatshrink tubing over the connections then mount it back into the bulkhead in my boat. The primary reason for using bullet connectors and not simply cutting the existing bullet connectors off and directly splicing the new keyswitch to the old plug is so that I could remove the new keyswitch at some point in the future and restore the entire assembly to the configuration in which it was received from Yamaha. I would like to find a way to leverage the notch at the 12 o'clock position of the keyswitch assembly from inside the bulkhead to keep the assembly from rotating but haven't figured out how do that yet, I may use a simple split lockwasher.