Impeller/pump removal on a 2019 AR195 different than just the 4 14mm bolts?

[Sean R]

No mine must be different if my boat was here i would take a picture. I had a 2017 Ar190 and all I had to do was remove 4 bolts and the pump, impeller and shift would pull straight out. On my 2020 212S its 5 bolt (four big and one small) I remove those and had to pry the pump housing from the transom plate. The only reason you need to pry off is because of sealant. Then the pump, cone, impeller, shaft all pulls out in one big assy. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[Sean R]

one more thing my 15yr old son was helping me and when he was tighten the small bolt on the port side it broke off. I ordered a set of LH drill bits to get it out this winter. I didn't kill him, he was more upset than I was, so I let it slide.

 

[mwalker4]

You took off the entire thing off all the way to the transom? You didn’t just take off the outer most bolts exposing the cone then pulled the impeller/shaft out like the older boats?

Now I understand. Yes, I have removed the four bolts + 1 small one that go into the transom. I've tried to pull it off put haven't been successful so I plan on prying the whole unit off the back using a pry bar with a 90 deg angle.

 

[steve0617]

OK so it's what I thought. The four you removed on your AR190 then allowed you to remove the impeller/shaft, thus a two piece pump. But on your 212S, removing those same 4 wouldn't do any good, so you had to remove the five bolts all the way against the transom and then remove the entire unit - pump, impeller, shaft, cone, water intake. All of it. So a one piece pump and harder to remove in the parking lot if I snagged a stick.

Thanks for the explanation.

 

[mwalker4]

Yep, the level of complexity of pump removal for a 2019+ boat with CJS Fins is significantly higher than a pre keel boat. Probably not a boat launch parking lot activity for me. Maybe if it was going to ruin a vacation.
1. Shift and steering disconnect. Seem to require partial removal of CJS system to remove steering bolt.
2. Disconnect AK from nozzle
3. Nozzle Removal: Remove 4 bolts and pry off (might get away with keeping on, seems cumbersome)
4. Pump removal: Remove 4 bolts and 1 small bolt and pry off transom and pull pump
5. Clean parts and mating surfaces
6. Reassemble using Loctite 518 gasket maker for sealing. Loctite 572 on big bolts and 242 on others.

Some simplifications for emergency removal: Removing whole unit at transom keeping nozzle on pump. Seems possible. If I turned the steering bolt upside down I could eliminate CJS Removal. This seems risky since losing the nut underway then causes the bolt to drop and steering loss. Maybe keep extra bolt and nut on boat for insurance.

 

[Mike Cardillo]

Had my first stick stuck today. Took about two hours to remove impeller and put it all back. I’m sure it will be easier next time (this was my first) but the 9 bolts vs 4 really sucks.

 

[Sean R]

Did you have sealant all over the mating surfaces? The first time I removed mine it was a bitch. I had to use a heat gun so the sealant would loosen up.

 

[Mike Cardillo]

Yes there was sealant but once the bolts were removed it was not too difficult to pry/release parts. The difficulty was the first turn of each bolt. I'm pretty sure there was lock tite on there - very difficult to get that first turn. Smashed my knuckles a few times. Also had to go buy a 10inch extension for ratchet once I realized the 5 deeper bolts. Basically just NOT FUN.