Lectrotab Trim Tabs

[fireflymedic]

Do the tabs alow you to plane at a slower speed

 

[Bruce]

Do the tabs alow you to plane at a slower speed

Yes, I can plane as low as 14 using the tabs. I find this useful on busy nights on the lake. I can go slow while maintaining visibility.

Late spring I sucked a large piece of plastic into one of the jets that I was unable to free via the cleanout plug. I had to boat perhaps six miles back to the ramp on one engine. I left the disabled engine at idle and ran the other at full throttle. The boat maxed around 13 mph. When I engaged the trim tabs I was able to plane out and run 18.

 

[steined]

Yes, I can plane as low as 14 using the tabs. I find this useful on busy nights on the lake. I can go slow while maintaining visibility.

Late spring I sucked a large piece of plastic into one of the jets that I was unable to free via the cleanout plug. I had to boat perhaps six miles back to the ramp on one engine. I left the disabled engine at idle and ran the other at full throttle. The boat maxed around 13 mph. When I engaged the trim tabs I was able to plane out and run 18.

I think this might be the piece of information that pushes me into getting a set.

Since you can plane at 14, is the RPM lower or is it at a similar RPM to your normal planing speed?

What I mean is, in my boat, my minimum planing speed is around 24 and it's a little fast for just cruising around. I would love to be around 15-18 but I am wondering if the RPM would be similar to the 24MPH planing speed no tabs.

Thanks!

 

[Bruce]

@squintey, I want to draw your attention to this thread. There are pictures of three different types of trim tabs installed in the earlier pages of this thread.

I made cardboard mock ups then ordered custom sized tabs from @Lectrotab Trim Tabs. You can see pics of those in https://jetboaters.net/threads/lectrotab-offering-for-yamaha-boats.2074/

I used 3M 5200 to seal the screws into the holes. 5200 is permanent so do not use it on anything you would ever want to remove.

 

[Bennie]

@Bruce - I'm talking to Kyle at Lectrotab and he is recommending the 12x9 tabs for my 2015 242. I have a very limited knowledge on tabs... what would be a noticeable performance difference between the 12" wide and 9" wide tabs?

He is suggesting the 12x9 to avoid contact with my transom straps. Thank you for any info - I greatly appreciate it.

 

[Mainah]

If anyone puts these on a 2015 plus 24 footer I would love to know the results. We are a wakeboarding family and have figured out that we need weight in the front to narrow the wake with 65' of line so we don't end up landing in the middle of the wake when trying tricks. I bet these would help us plane better at 20 mph and we could get away with just ballast in the rear and ski locker to keep the pumps lower in the water and still be planed out. Not to mention the lower planned out cruising speed benefit.

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce - I'm talking to Kyle at Lectrotab and he is recommending the 12x9 tabs for my 2015 242. I have a very limited knowledge on tabs... what would be a noticeable performance difference between the 12" wide and 9" wide tabs?

He is suggesting the 12x9 to avoid contact with my transom straps. Thank you for any info - I greatly appreciate it.

I suspect what he is suggesting is 12" wide by 9" long? My tabs stop just at the transom straps.

If you look at the first post in this thread you can see that my tabs started as 12x12 but the outside edges were bent down making them closer to 9" wide at the trailing end.

I made mock ups of the tabs and actuators from cardboard and duct tape. Then I gave the measurements to Lectrotab who built exactly what I wanted. I am not aware of anyone having trim tabs on a 2015+ 240 so I would want to repeat that mock up process to get the best fitting tabs possible.

 

[Mainah]

@Bruce I would mock up but I have no experience with tabs and not sure what placement and overall size / shape will do what I want. I get the principle of what they do but when terms like laminar flow start being thrown around I am out of my design depth. Building and programming and ic or h bridge from scratch to control them on the other hand is right up my alley.

Begining to think I may work on creating a 3.5 inch tft interfaced ic controlled adc and dac board to control ballast pumps, trim tabs, push button start, and perhaps even zone levels for the amps.

 

[Bennie]

I suspect what he is suggesting is 12" wide by 9" long? My tabs stop just at the transom straps.

If you look at the first post in this thread you can see that my tabs started as 12x12 but the outside edges were bent down making them closer to 9" wide at the trailing end.

I made mock ups of the tabs and actuators from cardboard and duct tape. Then I gave the measurements to Lectrotab who built exactly what I wanted. I am not aware of anyone having trim tabs on a 2015+ 240 so I would want to repeat that mock up process to get the best fitting tabs possible.

@ Bruce - below is an excerpt from the email I got from Kyle with Lectrotab:

Thanks for the photos. Attached are photos from a 242 limited. He used a 12X9 (tab length X width) with bent down edges, standard actuators with 23’ cable and Oval LED control.
The price for this kit will be right around $650 or rocker switch knocks off about $100. You can go with a larger tab like a T12X12-9051 but might interfere with your tie downs on your trailer.

I'm with @Mainah - I understand the basic principles on which they work, however I am not fluent enough in the engineering nomenclature to be competent to custom build a set. If they weren't 13 hours away I would just drive there and check them out. Any ideas?

 

[Bennie]

Here are the pics he sent me.

 

[Bruce]

@Bennie, I wonder what year model the 242 in the pictures is? I doubt Lectrotab knows that 2010 to 2014 and 2015+ 240 series boats have different hulls.

I would cut a 12x12 and 12x9 piece of cardboard then hold them to the boat where you plan to mount the tabs and see how they fit. Remember to leave room for the hinges. My hinges are underneath so they take less space.

 

[Bennie]

@Bruce - Will do. I looked through your install and noticed you mention shims but never anything about a brace or support for anything. Using the tabs do you suggest a brace or backing for the tabs or the actuator mount?

 

[Mainah]

That is not a 2015 plus. Clearly no articulating keel.

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce - Will do. I looked through your install and noticed you mention shims but never anything about a brace or support for anything. Using the tabs do you suggest a brace or backing for the tabs or the actuator mount?

I need to look at it again to confirm 100% but I believe when it came time to install I was able to rotate the actuator sufficiently that I did not need shims.

Mine are screwed (not bolted) directly to the hull with 3M 5200 permanently sealing around the screws. Most likely I would need to drill the screw heads off I were to try to remove the tabs.

My experience is that the sides of my 2007 hull are thicker than the 2010 to 2014 series and even more so than the 2015+ series. When you drill a hole for the first screw it would be a good idea to check how thick the hull is in that area. If it is exceptionally thin you may want want to use something to build up the inside. I did not need to do so.

I was able to feel inside the swim deck portion of the my boat and found that I could install actuators into the same reinforced area as the transom strap U Bolts. That area is perhaps 3/4" thick.

 

[Bennie]

I need to look at it again to confirm 100% but I believe when it came time to install I was able to rotate the actuator sufficiently that I did not need shims.

Mine are screwed (not bolted) directly to the hull with 3M 5200 permanently sealing around the screws. Most likely I would need to drill the screw heads off I were to try to remove the tabs.

My experience is that the sides of my 2007 hull are thicker than the 2010 to 2014 series and even more so than the 2015+ series. When you drill a hole for the first screw it would be a good idea to check how thick the hull is in that area. If it is exceptionally thin you may want want to use something to build up the inside. I did not need to do so.

I was able to feel inside the swim deck portion of the my boat and found that I could install actuators into the same reinforced area as the transom strap U Bolts. That area is perhaps 3/4" thick.

Yes sir you did, you stated you rotated the actuators for placement. I am looking to do this as a winter mod and will do a full write up on it, on a 2015 hull

 

[Bruce]

The amazing thing is that I installed the trim tabs three seasons ago. I use them every time I get into the boat, but they have never needed maintenance or any attention after the initial install. They have been exposed to 25 days of salt water and still look like new.

 

[Bruce]

This video is a good example of how trim tabs help in rough water. The forecast was for 2.6' seas which were growing as we approached the port. I believe I was traveling at 30+ MPH catching up with my group at this point. The ride was comfortable at 25 MPH at 50% trim. At 30 MPH it started to get painful so I increased to 75% trim which increased the splashing but took away the pain.

 

[swatski]

Effing awesome!!!

 

[Bruce]

Effing awesome!!!

I thought you would like that!

 

[Bennie]

Dang it.. I watched the video and now I'm hungry and the galley is closed.

Anyone know of a good place to get a cheeseburger in middle of the Gulf of Mexico?