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Maintenance Guide 2016 Chaparel Vortex 243

tommyh916

Well-Known Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
2
Points
52
Boat Make
Chaparral
Year
2016
Boat Model
VRX
Boat Length
24
Hello Everyone,

I want to perform some maintenance on my 2016 Chapparel Vortex 243 with the AF Rotax Powertrains 250 - 440000AFA powertrain
I want to replace the spark plugs, Oil, Oil filter, coolant and I also need to replace an O2 sensor. Could anyone give me some part numbers on the spark plugs, O2 sensors as well as what type of oil, oil filters and coolant I should use? Also, is there a guide anywhere online on the how to replace the oil? Thank you for the help in advance.
 
http://epc.brp.com/ is your friend. Select Rotax JPS from the pull down menu, then your motor year (which is the AF in your AFA, aka 2016 for AF), 250HP, and finally the specific thing you have (probably with a cat converter). You'll find all the BRP related part numbers there.

Just giving random links to what you need. I'm in Canada, I presume you're in the USA. So just find these at whatever stores you prefer. And yes, there are after market options too, I'm trying to keep this simple and BRP specific. Oil change kit comes with everything you need including filter and o-rings.

Spark Plug (3): NGK DCPR8E the E is important since you need to have the removal terminal option where you need to unscrew the very small tip to fit your ignition coils.

Oil change kit for 1500 engine: Amazon.com: Sea-Doo 4T 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil Change Kit for Rotax 1500 cc or more engine: Automotive

Coolant: Amazon.com: BRP Ski-Doo Can-Am Sea-Doo XPS OEM Pre-Mixed Antifreeze Coolant Quart, 779150: Sports & Outdoors

O2 sensor: BRP 0460374 but it was apparently superseded by BRP 0461576, 0461576 O2SENSOR&ORING AY - Johnson/Evinrude, OMC | Crowley Marine

For guides, any Sea-Doo youtube video applies on similar engines. But in essence, warm up the oil (don't run the engine out of water for long.. I recommend about a min EVEN if you have a hose connected. It doesn't cool one critical part, the so called "carbon ring"). Stick suction tube into the oil dip stick down to 18.75", no more, no less (mark it with tape). Pump as much oil as possible out. Put the dip stick back in, run the engine for ~2 sec to get more oil in the pan for you to suck up. Suck more up. Call it a day (yes, you can probably get more oil out but it won't matter, and yes there are ways to crank the engine without running it to get more oil out, but it also won't matter). Pull the filter off with an E10 socket. Replace with the new one including new O rings. When you put it back on, it's normal that the cap of the oil filter doesn't seem to sit "flush". Fill the engine back up with 3 quarts. Close caps and run the engine for a few seconds. Then check your oil level and top up accordingly. Do NOT overfill. Hence don't put all the oil in one shot. Also, make sure your boat is levelled before doing all of this.

Coolant change, open the drain plug on the ride plate with a hex key, drain and dispose of properly. Get a friend to pour the new coolant in the reservoir and as it comes out of the ride plate, put the drain plug back in. This avoid air bubbles in the system. Fill to about the mid point of the min/max on the reservoir. Then close things up and run the engine for 20 seconds. Then check the coolant level again and top up accordingly. Once the coolant has completely cooled down, make sure it sits somewhere in between the min/max marks. I recommend NOT overfilling this either.

I assume you can figure out plugs and O2 sensor.

Again, just remember that these are the same engines in Sea-Doos. So you can search the web for those and you'll find tons of helpful videos.
 
http://epc.brp.com/ is your friend. Select Rotax JPS from the pull down menu, then your motor year (which is the AF in your AFA, aka 2016 for AF), 250HP, and finally the specific thing you have (probably with a cat converter). You'll find all the BRP related part numbers there.

Just giving random links to what you need. I'm in Canada, I presume you're in the USA. So just find these at whatever stores you prefer. And yes, there are after market options too, I'm trying to keep this simple and BRP specific. Oil change kit comes with everything you need including filter and o-rings.

Spark Plug (3): NGK DCPR8E the E is important since you need to have the removal terminal option where you need to unscrew the very small tip to fit your ignition coils.

Oil change kit for 1500 engine: Amazon.com: Sea-Doo 4T 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil Change Kit for Rotax 1500 cc or more engine: Automotive

Coolant: Amazon.com: BRP Ski-Doo Can-Am Sea-Doo XPS OEM Pre-Mixed Antifreeze Coolant Quart, 779150: Sports & Outdoors

O2 sensor: BRP 0460374 but it was apparently superseded by BRP 0461576, 0461576 O2SENSOR&ORING AY - Johnson/Evinrude, OMC | Crowley Marine

For guides, any Sea-Doo youtube video applies on similar engines. But in essence, warm up the oil (don't run the engine out of water for long.. I recommend about a min EVEN if you have a hose connected. It doesn't cool one critical part, the so called "carbon ring"). Stick suction tube into the oil dip stick down to 18.75", no more, no less (mark it with tape). Pump as much oil as possible out. Put the dip stick back in, run the engine for ~2 sec to get more oil in the pan for you to suck up. Suck more up. Call it a day (yes, you can probably get more oil out but it won't matter, and yes there are ways to crank the engine without running it to get more oil out, but it also won't matter). Pull the filter off with an E10 socket. Replace with the new one including new O rings. When you put it back on, it's normal that the cap of the oil filter doesn't seem to sit "flush". Fill the engine back up with 3 quarts. Close caps and run the engine for a few seconds. Then check your oil level and top up accordingly. Do NOT overfill. Hence don't put all the oil in one shot. Also, make sure your boat is levelled before doing all of this.

Coolant change, open the drain plug on the ride plate with a hex key, drain and dispose of properly. Get a friend to pour the new coolant in the reservoir and as it comes out of the ride plate, put the drain plug back in. This avoid air bubbles in the system. Fill to about the mid point of the min/max on the reservoir. Then close things up and run the engine for 20 seconds. Then check the coolant level again and top up accordingly. Once the coolant has completely cooled down, make sure it sits somewhere in between the min/max marks. I recommend NOT overfilling this either.

I assume you can figure out plugs and O2 sensor.

Again, just remember that these are the same engines in Sea-Doos. So you can search the web for those and you'll find tons of helpful videos.
Luc, can’t thank you enough for all the help you have provided me. Happy boating!
 
No problem. Hopefully you have enough there to help you. If you have follow up questions, feel free to post them here or PM me.
 
http://epc.brp.com/ is your friend. Select Rotax JPS from the pull down menu, then your motor year (which is the AF in your AFA, aka 2016 for AF), 250HP, and finally the specific thing you have (probably with a cat converter). You'll find all the BRP related part numbers there.

Just giving random links to what you need. I'm in Canada, I presume you're in the USA. So just find these at whatever stores you prefer. And yes, there are after market options too, I'm trying to keep this simple and BRP specific. Oil change kit comes with everything you need including filter and o-rings.

Spark Plug (3): NGK DCPR8E the E is important since you need to have the removal terminal option where you need to unscrew the very small tip to fit your ignition coils.

Oil change kit for 1500 engine: Amazon.com: Sea-Doo 4T 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil Change Kit for Rotax 1500 cc or more engine: Automotive

Coolant: Amazon.com: BRP Ski-Doo Can-Am Sea-Doo XPS OEM Pre-Mixed Antifreeze Coolant Quart, 779150: Sports & Outdoors

O2 sensor: BRP 0460374 but it was apparently superseded by BRP 0461576, 0461576 O2SENSOR&ORING AY - Johnson/Evinrude, OMC | Crowley Marine

For guides, any Sea-Doo youtube video applies on similar engines. But in essence, warm up the oil (don't run the engine out of water for long.. I recommend about a min EVEN if you have a hose connected. It doesn't cool one critical part, the so called "carbon ring"). Stick suction tube into the oil dip stick down to 18.75", no more, no less (mark it with tape). Pump as much oil as possible out. Put the dip stick back in, run the engine for ~2 sec to get more oil in the pan for you to suck up. Suck more up. Call it a day (yes, you can probably get more oil out but it won't matter, and yes there are ways to crank the engine without running it to get more oil out, but it also won't matter). Pull the filter off with an E10 socket. Replace with the new one including new O rings. When you put it back on, it's normal that the cap of the oil filter doesn't seem to sit "flush". Fill the engine back up with 3 quarts. Close caps and run the engine for a few seconds. Then check your oil level and top up accordingly. Do NOT overfill. Hence don't put all the oil in one shot. Also, make sure your boat is levelled before doing all of this.

Coolant change, open the drain plug on the ride plate with a hex key, drain and dispose of properly. Get a friend to pour the new coolant in the reservoir and as it comes out of the ride plate, put the drain plug back in. This avoid air bubbles in the system. Fill to about the mid point of the min/max on the reservoir. Then close things up and run the engine for 20 seconds. Then check the coolant level again and top up accordingly. Once the coolant has completely cooled down, make sure it sits somewhere in between the min/max marks. I recommend NOT overfilling this either.

I assume you can figure out plugs and O2 sensor.

Again, just remember that these are the same engines in Sea-Doos. So you can search the web for those and you'll find tons of helpful videos.


Great information and thank you for sharing. I have a quick question, on the following items as well.

Ignition coil number?
Engine Air filter number?
Fuel filter?

I have been reading on several threads and can't find anything on the items mentioned.

Thanks!
 
- Ignition coil number is in that parts catalog posted, epc.brp.com but you need to check for your specific engine model number to find the right part numbers. It's under the wire harness section.
- Engine air filter is at the same location under Air Filter Assy.
- Fuel filter, it is built into the fuel sender and there is no need to replace this. It is permanent.
 
- Ignition coil number is in that parts catalog posted, epc.brp.com but you need to check for your specific engine model number to find the right part numbers. It's under the wire harness section.
- Engine air filter is at the same location under Air Filter Assy.
- Fuel filter, it is built into the fuel sender and there is no need to replace this. It is permanent.

Thank you!

I check on the wiring harness, but I could not find the ignition coil plug part number...
 
You don't see part 11? I have no idea what engine you have, this is from one of the many options.

1632958089823.png
 
Ah, can't help you with the brands. I've barely seen anybody needing to replace them up to now. But a quick search for "rotax 4-tec ignition coils" brings up many, including Amazon results. I'd just go based on reviews there. Sorry I can't be of more help.
 
The OE COP is Denso...
The safest advise is to always go OE engine parts only..!!!

The NGK "BRP" part number for the plugs is correctly listed by Luc @ DCPR8E
The same exact NGK plug at "Napa" is part# 4339
The NGK plugs regardless of Napa or BRP numbered will need to be gap checked. I always have to open the gap a hairs distance. .030 If I recall is the correct gap.
 
Last edited:
It is, Denso ignition coil 129700-4410 J0441

But sounds like he's just looking for a "good brand". Not necessarily OEM.... but it's possible I misunderstood.
 
Ah, can't help you with the brands. I've barely seen anybody needing to replace them up to now. But a quick search for "rotax 4-tec ignition coils" brings up many, including Amazon results. I'd just go based on reviews there. Sorry I can't be of more help.

No worries! Thanks!
 
It is, Denso ignition coil 129700-4410 J0441

But sounds like he's just looking for a "good brand". Not necessarily OEM.... but it's possible I misunderstood.

OEM is good, I just didn’t want to get a off brand that would give me more problems…Thanks
 
Everything you need is in the PDF I've attached......
Page 102 of the actual PDF (page 120 where the Adobe viewer is concerned) starts the oil change instructions.
The oil suction pump can be bought at West Marine or similar, best to get the large one pictured in the manual as it holds at least 4 quarts.

WEST MARINE Manual Oil Changer, 6.9 Quart | West Marine
 
Last edited:
Sorry, I had to remove the service manual since it's copyrighted. It can't be shared on this forum... now if it happens to be off this forum.... I can't stop it. ;)
 
Ahh, through private message, or external public link?
Or what about single page snapshots?
 
Thank You! I was able to get a copy ? Just bought a used 2016 243 VRX with 250’s and I want to start fresh.
 
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