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I’m concerned about space as well but should be able to bend the metal mounting straps to make the assembly fit.
I tried to test it this morning before it got too hot (forecast calls for an high of 99 today that feels like 105, by 9a it’s too hot to be doing work outside) and found I wired it wrong. Each horn needs its own positive and negative leads. If the horns are daisy chained like I did neither will work.
I’m concerned about space as well but should be able to bend the metal mounting straps to make the assembly fit.
I tried to test it this morning before it got too hot (forecast calls for an high of 99 today that feels like 105, by 9a it’s too hot to be doing work outside) and found I wired it wrong. Each horn needs its own positive and negative leads. If the horns are daisy chained like I did neither will work.
I finally completed and quasi (driveway) tested the wireless rear view camera system. The real test will be on Sunday when I trailer the boat to a nearby lake.
So the camera system worked perfectly on my first long distance boat trailering trip of the year but I do need to mount the camera so it doesn’t shake and move out of position so much.
The transmission range is a lot longer than I expected in that even after I launched the boat and parked the tow vehicle and trailer I could still clearly see image from the camera over 30 yards away. The camera never over heated and with the included harness I could leave the camera in place and use the display to see what’s going on with the people I’m towing behind the boat without looking over my shoulder (something I can do with the rear view mirror already but still it’s nice to have options).
I added two additional mounts for the camera. The rear one will be easier to use because of the way the power cable will be routed (first under the Bimini boot before passing under the side of the boat’s cover) but overall I am very happy with this system, so far.
Replaced the handle that was about to break and created two templates for some seadek I will purchase which will cover up the mounting holes from the original window frame.
That's a great idea for creating templates if someone is going the DIY route for SeaDek! The clear plastic allows you to see exactly what's going on in that area you're working on, and if you want to transfer it to something thicker to use when cutting (like masonite/hardboard or whatever else), it can just be stuck to that thicker template material with some spray adhesive or something similar. Nice to see this idea
@drewkaree all the credit on the templates goes to jetboatpilot. For these small parts I did not need to make templates but JBP insisted and understandably so, once the seadek is cut you own it. Anyway the entire process took over a month most of which was taken up by transit time. First you call jBP, next they send you uncut Mylar to draw on, after you send it back jBP sends some thicker but still rollable plasitc cut out templates, once you verify they fit jBP emails a quote over. It takes at least a week, closer to two, after the order is placed and paid, to get the parts delivered to the front door.