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Maintenance Guide 2016 Chaparel Vortex 243

BRP Parts Catalogs is your friend. Select Rotax JPS from the pull down menu, then your motor year (which is the AF in your AFA, aka 2016 for AF), 250HP, and finally the specific thing you have (probably with a cat converter). You'll find all the BRP related part numbers there.

Just giving random links to what you need. I'm in Canada, I presume you're in the USA. So just find these at whatever stores you prefer. And yes, there are after market options too, I'm trying to keep this simple and BRP specific. Oil change kit comes with everything you need including filter and o-rings.

Spark Plug (3): NGK DCPR8E the E is important since you need to have the removal terminal option where you need to unscrew the very small tip to fit your ignition coils.

Oil change kit for 1500 engine: Amazon.com: Sea-Doo 4T 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil Change Kit for Rotax 1500 cc or more engine: Automotive

Coolant: Amazon.com: BRP Ski-Doo Can-Am Sea-Doo XPS OEM Pre-Mixed Antifreeze Coolant Quart, 779150: Sports & Outdoors

O2 sensor: BRP 0460374 but it was apparently superseded by BRP 0461576, 0461576 O2SENSOR&ORING AY - Johnson/Evinrude, OMC | Crowley Marine

For guides, any Sea-Doo youtube video applies on similar engines. But in essence, warm up the oil (don't run the engine out of water for long.. I recommend about a min EVEN if you have a hose connected. It doesn't cool one critical part, the so called "carbon ring"). Stick suction tube into the oil dip stick down to 18.75", no more, no less (mark it with tape). Pump as much oil as possible out. Put the dip stick back in, run the engine for ~2 sec to get more oil in the pan for you to suck up. Suck more up. Call it a day (yes, you can probably get more oil out but it won't matter, and yes there are ways to crank the engine without running it to get more oil out, but it also won't matter). Pull the filter off with an E10 socket. Replace with the new one including new O rings. When you put it back on, it's normal that the cap of the oil filter doesn't seem to sit "flush". Fill the engine back up with 3 quarts. Close caps and run the engine for a few seconds. Then check your oil level and top up accordingly. Do NOT overfill. Hence don't put all the oil in one shot. Also, make sure your boat is levelled before doing all of this.

Coolant change, open the drain plug on the ride plate with a hex key, drain and dispose of properly. Get a friend to pour the new coolant in the reservoir and as it comes out of the ride plate, put the drain plug back in. This avoid air bubbles in the system. Fill to about the mid point of the min/max on the reservoir. Then close things up and run the engine for 20 seconds. Then check the coolant level again and top up accordingly. Once the coolant has completely cooled down, make sure it sits somewhere in between the min/max marks. I recommend NOT overfilling this either.

I assume you can figure out plugs and O2 sensor.

Again, just remember that these are the same engines in Sea-Doos. So you can search the web for those and you'll find tons of helpful videos.
Ive read all the great information and want to make sure I'm understanding the information .
My 2016 Glastron GTS207 with Bombardier Rotax 4 stroke engine was losing power this weekend.
I want to change my spark plugs and air filter. not sure how many spark plugs to buy and correct air filter.
Is the fuel filter permanent and doesnt need changed?
 
Sorry, I was out away from all civilization for the last 5 days. Catching up on things.

The air filter pretty much never needs to be replaced unless you did something odd like get oil/dust in it. So I wouldn't bother unless you have such a reason.
You need 3 spark plugs. DCPR8E with the SILVER terminal (4339). The silver one is removable which you need to do (it unscrews) on your engine.
The fuel filter is also permanent and does not need to be changed unless you have a really good reason.

Start with the spark plugs. Make sure the ignition coils are well seated.

No error codes/check engine light?
 
Thanks for the response. We have not hooked it up to the machine that shows the codes but i did order the correct spark plugs from Amazon and were going to start with replacing those. The last time we took it out on the way to the beach area on the lake it would only run 30mph and on the way back it in that evening would only run 20mph.
 
If there's an active error code, you should see a check engine orange light. If so, it is often accessible in the settings menu (not always). If there is no check engine light, your issue is less likely to be spark plugs... generally bad plugs give a check engine light. But cheap to replace, so yes, do it.

What could explain this is a bad pump. Have you inspected it? Note, do NOT remove the intake grate for this. It is NOT removable. You can cause a leak in your boat which is very difficult to fix since you need to go under the engine. But if you look through the intake grate with a flashlight, look around the entire perimeter of the wear ring. If you can, take photos and post them here. But we need to see details. Clear photos. You're looking for gauges in the plastic wear ring, or damage to the impeller blades and the gap between the impeller and the wear ring.

What you're describing sounds more like the pump. I'm assuming your RPMs are good?
 
I'm not sure if this is what you were asking for. This is a learn as you go for my husband and I. Also, I seen the title for this thread is
Chaparel Vortex 243, We have a 2016 Glastron GTS207.
 

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Not quite. You need pictures from the other side. Not from the nozzle side. Under the boat is an intake grate. Stick the camera in between, have good lighting, take nice clear photos there without taking off the intake grate.
 
If there's an active error code, you should see a check engine orange light. If so, it is often accessible in the settings menu (not always). If there is no check engine light, your issue is less likely to be spark plugs... generally bad plugs give a check engine light. But cheap to replace, so yes, do it.

What could explain this is a bad pump. Have you inspected it? Note, do NOT remove the intake grate for this. It is NOT removable. You can cause a leak in your boat which is very difficult to fix since you need to go under the engine. But if you look through the intake grate with a flashlight, look around the entire perimeter of the wear ring. If you can, take photos and post them here. But we need to see details. Clear photos. You're looking for gauges in the plastic wear ring, or damage to the impeller blades and the gap between the impeller and the wear ring.

What you're describing sounds more like the pump. I'm assuming your RPMs are good?
How do I find information on what fuel pump I need and where to buy it?
 
The pump I'm talking about is the JET pump. Not the fuel pump. You need to get photos from the other side... as described in my previous post.
 
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