Need some help: Another Reverse Gate question

[dscable]

OK guys. I had to replace the reverse gate cable about a month ago. Boat is running fine, but feel like I lost a little bit of speed and "hole shot" power ever since. Took some time to look at the reverse gate again today, and notice that at WOT it doesn't appear to clear the whole nozzle (see pics). That doesn't seem right to me, shouldn't the gate be completely up? If so, I have maxed out the adjustment, and the lock nut is all the way up the threads so no more adjustment space.

Now - I noticed on the parts diag (see pic) that part 42, called a collar, is missing on my setup. I assume that those collars allow that bracket to "swing" in it's connection points. Could this be my problem? Mine is tightened down tight and doesn't spin at all. To test, I loosened the bolts a bit to allow for the freedom of movement, but it didn't APPEAR to make that much of a difference.

Any ideas??

 

[dscable]

bump....anyone?

 

[GTBRMC]

I believe @Cobra Jet Steering LLC has vast knowledge on this adjustment - fairly sure he has answered this kind of question before (going from memory, so not 100% certain).

 

[Bogus]

OK guys. I had to replace the reverse gate cable about a month ago. Boat is running fine, but feel like I lost a little bit of speed and "hole shot" power ever since. Took some time to look at the reverse gate again today, and notice that at WOT it doesn't appear to clear the whole nozzle (see pics). That doesn't seem right to me, shouldn't the gate be completely up? If so, I have maxed out the adjustment, and the lock nut is all the way up the threads so no more adjustment space.

Now - I noticed on the parts diag (see pic) that part 42, called a collar, is missing on my setup. I assume that those collars allow that bracket to "swing" in it's connection points. Could this be my problem? Mine is tightened down tight and doesn't spin at all. To test, I loosened the bolts a bit to allow for the freedom of movement, but it didn't APPEAR to make that much of a difference.

Any ideas??

I have changed the cable on port engine today because of electro corrosion. I can definatly say that you need to make the gate open fully at forward. So you need to fix it.

 

[dscable]

I have changed the cable on port engine today because of electro corrosion. I can definatly say that you need to make the gate open fully at forward. So you need to fix it.

Thanks for the reply.

Was hoping based on the pictures someone might be able to tell me if the position is way off compared to theirs or others.

 

[Zizzou 192]

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2012-ar240-starboard-side-pump-vibration-snaps-steering-cable.26235/#post-439069

Yours is hanging about 1/2” lower than mine.

 

[tdonoughue]

The adjustment is to screw part 37 up closer on the new cable. Use care or you will snap your new cable tightening the bolts (ask me how I know).

If your 42 collar is really missing, that will cause extra play in the gate (you will be able to lift it up and down and see it flopping about until it contacts the cable end). However, if I recall correctly from replacing mine the collars usually stick inside the gate. So it may be there and just never have come out for you to notice it...

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

You must adjust the cable to get the entire reverse gate clear of the water exiting the nozzle I am surprised you don't feel some serious vibration in the controls when you are on plane, also you must have the collars in the reverse gates so the bolts can be tightened properly without binding up the reverse.

 

[dscable]

You must adjust the cable to get the entire reverse gate clear of the water exiting the nozzle I am surprised you don't feel some serious vibration in the controls when you are on plane, also you must have the collars in the reverse gates so the bolts can be tightened properly without binding up the reverse.

Thanks guys. The problem is there is no adjustment left in the cable. I am at the top of the threads on the treaded rod from the cable if that makes sense. I do have play in the gate, and do not have any vibration while I'm on plane, so maybe the force of the nozzle is enough to push the gate up clear even though it doesn't appear to go up all the way when on dry land (makes sense in my head anyway lol) I ordered the collars from partzilla, ill see if that makes any difference. Otherwise, I'm not sure how to adjust the bucket any higher.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

That is common you should have more threads left to use but the cable has bottomed out in the cable connector so if you have a 1/4 inch of cable threads left just shorten the threaded end of the cable that much and it will allow you to move the end forward a bit more and get the bucket out of the way the jet thrust will not move the gate out of the way it will just interfere with it. The small standoffs may get the bucket further up so do that first .

 

[dscable]

That is common you should have more threads left to use but the cable has bottomed out in the cable connector so if you have a 1/4 inch of cable threads left just shorten the threaded end of the cable that much and it will allow you to move the end forward a bit more and get the bucket out of the way the jet thrust will not move the gate out of the way it will just interfere with it. The small standoffs may get the bucket further up so do that first .

Thanks! I had thought about cutting the threads down in case I was bottoming out, but was trying to check all of my other options first ? I'll wait for the parts, and if those don't help, I'll pull out the cut-off wheel. Thanks as always guys.

 

[Chewiem16]

hey, reviving an old post. just replaced my cables as well on my 2010. At first, I had terrible vibration after replacing the cables too. I set up the neutral opening to where it was originally working great for keeping my "absolute neutral." took it on the water and it vibrated on plane like a beast. I screwed back the spring collar on the cable to have it open all the way, but it still doesn't completely clear the nozzle. took that for a ride and noticed that the vibration is mostly gone but showed its ugly head on plane, albeit less intense. I'm definitely going to have to cut some threads off the end of the cable, especially knowing that the cable will stretch over time. my problem is that the opening went from 28mm to 37mm at neutral and will get larger after chopping off the threads.

I wonder if there is any way to increase the THROW of the control lever. that will keep neutral where it's supposed to be, while letting forward clear the nozzle. you could even use the reverse gate stop screw on the controller to prevent it from slamming too far.

any thoughts?

 

[Neutron]

hey, reviving an old post. just replaced my cables as well on my 2010. At first, I had terrible vibration after replacing the cables too. I set up the neutral opening to where it was originally working great for keeping my "absolute neutral." took it on the water and it vibrated on plane like a beast. I screwed back the spring collar on the cable to have it open all the way, but it still doesn't completely clear the nozzle. took that for a ride and noticed that the vibration is mostly gone but showed its ugly head on plane, albeit less intense. I'm definitely going to have to cut some threads off the end of the cable, especially knowing that the cable will stretch over time. my problem is that the opening went from 28mm to 37mm at neutral and will get larger after chopping off the threads.

I wonder if there is any way to increase the THROW of the control lever. that will keep neutral where it's supposed to be, while letting forward clear the nozzle. you could even use the reverse gate stop screw on the controller to prevent it from slamming too far.

any thoughts?

I have seen some aftermarket cables that dont match up to the oem ones where the adjustment was way off.
Sent a few back now i only get oem or high quality a/m from the manufacturer

 

[Chewiem16]

That’s what’s crazy. I specifically bought the OEM cable to avoid things like this from happening.

 

[Neutron]

Then you are missing something, either you have the wrong amount of threads at the binacle or it isn't sitting in its correct spots.
I usually match the amount of threads from the old one to the new one at the binnacle

 

[Chewiem16]

Then you are missing something, either you have the wrong amount of threads at the binacle or it isn't sitting in its correct spots.
I usually match the amount of threads from the old one to the new one at the binnacle

The cables can only mount in one spot. They have grooves at the ends where it sits in the control housing and the fitting through the hull. I also replaced that fitting as well, so I know it’s sitting right. The threads at the controls were threaded all the way in, and I matched the measurement of the opening at neutral at the nozzle with a caliper. Either way, the jacket position shouldn’t matter, as it’s the cable inside that moves. The amount of threads exposed at the cable isn’t going to change the rate at which the bucket opens. When I cut off the threads, sure, I’ll definitely be able to screw the collar tighter so that the bucket certainly clears the nozzle. But neutral position, the bucket will sit higher, and now always creep forward when the throttle is set at that position.

 

[Neutron]

Take a picture of the cable end where it attaches to the nozzle

 

[Chewiem16]

The coupling is screwed all the way in.