• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Guest, we are pleased to announce that Hydrophase Ridesteady is offering an extra $100 off for JETBOATERS.NET members on any Ridesteady for Yamaha Speed Control system purchased through March 7th, 2025. Ridesteady is a speed control system (“cruise control”) that uses GPS satellites or engine RPM to keep your boat at the set speed you choose. On twin engine boats, it will also automatically synchronize your engines.

    Click Here for more information>Ride Steady group buy for JetBoaters.net members only

    You can dismiss this Notice by clicking the "X" in the upper right>>>>>

Scupper Change: 2012 AR240

tdonoughue

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
4,970
Reaction score
4,106
Points
417
Location
The Woodlands, TX 77381
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2012
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
I bought the Attwood 66553-3, like everyone else. Amazon. I steeled myself because this is a notoriously difficult job. I brought my tools:
IMG_20200811_124426.jpg (the thing that looks like a scupper wrench is in the plumbing section--it is used on slip joints, but it looked like it would be helpful here)

Before I started, which I figured would mean pulling off the plate by the cleanout ports, I pulled the little access plate to survey the situation:
IMG_20200811_121639.jpg
OMG! It is right there! I probably don't even need to pull the plate (and, in fact, I did not). Unscrewed the clamp and removed the hose.
IMG_20200811_121903.jpg
Used the slip joint wrench to unscrew the old scupper nut about 1/8 turn. The rest I did by hand. Easy peasy. Had been concerned as the new one was so long...
IMG_20200811_121950.jpg
But, plenty of room there. I test fit the new one to be sure:
IMG_20200811_122029.jpg
Yep, no worries. So I gummed it up with 4200 (not without its fun, the tube I had was a little dried out. there was wet stuff in there, so I improvised to get it out with my Philips head screwdriver--note the hole in the tube)
IMG_20200811_122623.jpg
Had plenty of 4200 on there...
IMG_20200811_122627.jpg
Tightened up with the slip joint wrench. Once the scupper started turning a bit, I used the large channel locks to hold the back side of the scupper while I tightened the nut with the slip joint wrench. Required a little gymnastics crossing hands through the channel lock handles to reach the wrench, but very doable.
Attached the hose and the clamp (getting the clamp tightened again was probably the most difficult part).
IMG_20200811_123942.jpg
I think I was done in 20 minutes.
 
I almost did that one, too, because I knew that my scupper runs laterally (rather than forward-aft), so I was worried about the clearance with the hose, etc. But, as you can see from the pics, there was plenty of room. I think if yours is the same, the short one will work just as well, too.
 
Took her out this morning. Scupper connection is dry as a bone. Success!
 
This is a mod I plan to do in the future as well...while the scupper is above the water line on my boat, if it broke there would be lots of water splashing in from wake waves. Thanks for the info.
:thumbsup:
 
Both next to each other. Basically same price.
 

Attachments

  • 86965D56-BE33-4308-A139-5E9A3BD17BCF.jpeg
    86965D56-BE33-4308-A139-5E9A3BD17BCF.jpeg
    97.4 KB · Views: 23
The scuppers seam to hold up better in the newer models . My theory on the reason they were failing is, the scupper was mounted far below the water line the little flap would allow water to sit in the hose. The hose is a large diameter and not supported with straps the weight of the hose bouncing causes the scupper to fracture then completely sheer off.
 
There was a dire reason to change the scuppers below the water line in the older boats. They would fail and fill the boat with water. Is there really a dire reason to make this change in the newer boats? I thought they were above the water line. I may be mistaken.
 
I will offer: there appeared to be nothing wrong with my old scupper at all. Seemed very solid. Didn't come apart in my hand or anything. I am keeping it as a spare...

So, I don't think on my boat this was probably 'necessary', much in the way a second bilge pump is not 'necessary'. However, both of those improvements provide me a little extra comfort with my boat. I consider them cheap insurance for the peace of mind at least (and at most, perhaps it will save me a flooding event--who knows).
 
I will offer: there appeared to be nothing wrong with my old scupper at all. Seemed very solid. Didn't come apart in my hand or anything. I am keeping it as a spare...

So, I don't think on my boat this was probably 'necessary', much in the way a second bilge pump is not 'necessary'. However, both of those improvements provide me a little extra comfort with my boat. I consider them cheap insurance for the peace of mind at least (and at most, perhaps it will save me a flooding event--who knows).

Same here. Just removed mine and it was solid. My boat is a 2010 and by the look of the silicone I believe it was changes at some point. There was even silicone around the hose. With that, the piece of mind that $60 just brought me is well worth it.
 
Both of those were "newer" boats than ours. The second link was a 2016 242x-E series.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top