Scupper

[txav8r]

I have not heard of one that fits perfectly without at least grinding the two sides down to 2.75" across. It isn't hard at all, and any machine shop could do it easily for you!

 

[txav8r]

A machine shop will have a lathe, a spindle that holds the work to spin at a slow rate, to use a tool to trim or modify to desired shape and size. This won't be too expensive...but you could just use a grinder and secure the scupper in a vise to do it. Get good thick work gloves...it gets to glowing and that is HOT!

 

[jcyamaharider]

Sounds like I need to find out what a Lathe is..

Boatski if you cannot find a local machine shop to do it I would be more then happy to turn that down. Mels idea works as well I have done this a time or two on a couple of larger jobs that went through our shop.

 

[txav8r]

Same bat time, same bat channel...oh wait, different channel! But same friendly member support and offers to help! You have to absolutely love the jetboaters member!

 

[DawgDaze]

OK I learned something new today!

 

[DCB-270]

Same bat time, same bat channel...oh wait, different channel! But same friendly member support and offers to help! You have to absolutely love the jetboaters member!

Loving this new site.

 

[BoatSki]

Boatski if you cannot find a local machine shop to do it I would be more then happy to turn that down. Mels idea works as well I have done this a time or two on a couple of larger jobs that went through our shop.

I appreciate the offer thanks!

 

[Suchawittygal]

Okay...please pardon my ignorance, but what the heck is a scupper and what does it do?? Come on now, go easy on me, I'm a rookie here. LOL

 

[Murf'n'surf]

If you take a wave over the bow or do a sub move the water on your deck with flow into the rear drain hole on deck and exit the scupper which is in the middle of the stern near the water line. The white hose that runs between your motors is running to the scupper.

 

[leeatmg]

The scupper is a drain below the waterline, usually with a rubber flap, that lets water drain out of the boat from the lowest point of the boat. The rubber flap is designed to be one way, so that the water goes out but the flap closes when water tries to come in. It's the little drain, located at the bottom of the transom (that squarish section of the boat between the two jets.). On our boats, the scupper fitting is plastic and on some boats prone to cracking, which if it happens can at a minimum leak into the lower parts of the boat, and at worst could in theory sink the boat if it happened while the boat was in the water unattended.

If you search this or the "other" forum, you will find a picture of the scupper drain. If you look at my signature picture, you will see the scupper at the bottom center of the picture - the little black circle.

 

[Jim Robeson]

I'm glad you asked that question Suchawittygal, I thought I had a pretty good idea but wasn't exactly sure. I will definitely will check mine out this spring. Thanks for all the info!!

 

[jawsf16]

It is an easy cheap replacement to give piece of mind, the alternative is potential failure with a GIANT hole in the boat.

 

[colt45]

Alright. Where do I get one?

 

[jawsf16]

Google attwood stainless steel scupper 665533 and find the best price.

 

[colt45]

Thanks

 

[flyin_dutchman]

Is that part # universal, or specific to the 230 models only?
All this talk of grinding, putting on lathe, trimming to fit....? Really? This is the best we got? Harrumph

 

[jawsf16]

210 models are easy, same part, but no grinding. I did this on my 210 and it's pretty easy.

 

[flyin_dutchman]

Okay...please pardon my ignorance, but what the heck is a scupper and what does it do?? Come on now, go easy on me, I'm a rookie here. LOL

That is the scupper valve. See how it's plastic; they are describing swapping it out for a better metal one...

 

[Gym]

This part is fairly easy to install. The prep work is where you'll go through most of the beers for this project. Here is a google on the part #665533. https://www.google.com/#q=scupper 665533 Just find the price & shipping that works best for you.

The easiest way to make the part fit is to grind the 3 oclock & 9 oclock position of the round flange about 1/16th of an inch on each side. Then dry fit it to make sure it fits flush. If the slight bevel on the fiberglass keeps it from sitting flush just grind a tiny bit more. I used a mid size pair of channel lock pliers to turn the nut inside the bilge. I found it easier to remove the starboard water box (muffler) which allowed me to swing the wrench better. Practice that maneuver before you apply the caulking. Make absolutely sure the rubber flapper on the scupper is facing perfectly down before you finish the job. Having someone outside the boat holding the scupper in the correct position while you tighten the large nut helps.

I used Life Caulk from West Marine to seal the scupper inside and out. Life Caulk gives you more working time and can be removed if necessary whereas 5200 requires a jack hammer if you need to remove it. The 4200 fast cure caulk has too short a working time to complete this before it starts to set up so if the 4200 gets on the threads you're in trouble.

It's not IF your scupper has failed or is leaking but WHEN. Why risk it. I also discovered two broken exhaust clamps while I was in the lower bilge doing this project so it was a good win win for me. Take some pics when you do your project. I think they will be easy to post on this site.

Gym

 

[jawsf16]

No grinding for 210 otherwise, exactly what gym said.