Scupper

[jcyamaharider]

Good points Gym!

 

[Suchawittygal]

That is the scupper valve. See how it's plastic; they are describing swapping it out for a better metal one...

Ahh..I see. Thanks!

 

[txav8r]

On page one of this thread, I posted a picture of the scupper valve on a '07-'09 230 of any variety and '08-'09 232 L or LS. Because of this indentation, you must grind the 3 and 9 oclock positions as Gym said...at a minimum. Some would turn the flange to make it uniform and pretty, but only reducing the clearance to make it set flush is necessary...lock at page one...oh what the hell, we have bandwidth and hardrive space at this point! I will post it again since this post has made it to 4 pages!
Also, here is a shot of the white drain hose from the cockpit drain to the scupper valve in the engine compartment...

 

[txav8r]

Cheryl, the stainless version has a wider flange, so it will sit up in the curve of the narrow recess, and you must grind down the edges of it so it sits flush...or it will leak. And you want to keep the sealant off the threads as mentioned, and be sure to use either 3M 4200 or Lifecaulk...both of those are polyurethane based, and much better for below the waterline applications than plain marine grade silicones. The 3M 5200 mentioned is a permanent cement...stay away from that except where you will Never, and I mean NEVER...want to change or modify that component. This applies to that.

 

[CDENsomnia]

Alright, so I remember seeing a lot of talk about the scupper. In looking at the boats everyone on this thread has they are almost all the older style boats like the 230. Is this something I should do on a 2012 AR240? I would go look at mine right now but I can't easily get to the back of the boat.

 

[Gym]

Alright, so I remember seeing a lot of talk about the scupper. In looking at the boats everyone on this thread has they are almost all the older style boats like the 230. Is this something I should do on a 2012 AR240? I would go look at mine right now but I can't easily get to the back of the boat.

The older boats had the scupper valve below the water level. I believe your boat has an above water scupper valve.

Gym

 

[Murf'n'surf]

3M 5200 is not permanent. Only in a few applications is it permanent like bonding plywood to plywood and other structural bonds. I use 5200 a lot on below and above the waterline applications. It remains slightly flexible but water tight.

 

[Gym]

3M 5200 is not permanent. Only in a few applications is it permanent like bonding plywood to plywood and other structural bonds. I use 5200 a lot on below and above the waterline applications. It remains slightly flexible but water tight.

You can remove 5200 but with a lot of difficulty and possibly damage to the bonded surfaces. 3M states "Recommended Usage: Permanent bonding, above and below water. Extremely strong & flexible." Whereas 4200 3M states "approximately half the strength of 3M's 5200, which allows for eventual dissasembly of parts." So if you ever want to replace a scupper or other fitting you may want to consider the 4200 or Life caulk.

Gym

 

[itsdgm]

Here's what mine looked like before I replaced it with a stainless one. It was less than 2 years old and split about 3/4 of the way around. I would have never thought to check it if I hadn't been alerted by the guys on this forum.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

It has arrived!!

 

[leeatmg]

It has arrived!!
View attachment 1140

Man, that is one sexy drain!

 

[PEARCE]

Do you have the tools and the skills to make that bad boy fit right? I'm afraid to touch mine since I don't have the tools and I'm not sure about the skills yet.

 

[itsdgm]

Do you have the tools and the skills to make that bad boy fit right? I'm afraid to touch mine since I don't have the tools and I'm not sure about the skills yet.

There's got to be a fellow member near you in that great big state of yours that could lend a hand!!!

 

[Murf'n'surf]

I do! I just don't have the time like I used to.

 

[PEARCE]

I do actually have several that are within an hour or so of a drive including the world famous @txav8r!

 

[Gym]

Do you have the tools and the skills to make that bad boy fit right? I'm afraid to touch mine since I don't have the tools and I'm not sure about the skills yet.

Pearce, Non of us had the skills before we tackled this job. It's just a matter of taking things one step at a time. It's really not rocket science. The most difficult and time consuming part of the whole job is removing the clean out tray to access the lower bilge and removing the starboard water box (muffler). It's not technical just time consuming.

Once that part is complete, you need a screw driver to remove the white corrugated hose from the old scupper valve. Next a medium size pair of channel lock pliers to remove the large plastic nut from the old scupper. next remove the old scupper valve. You may need to hit it a few times from the bilge side to break the seal of the old silicone. Clean off any old silicone inside and out.

I have the same boat as you so you WILL need to grind about 1/16 of an inch off of the 3 o'clock and the 9 o'clock position of the large outer flange. You will see why if you dry fit the new scupper valve to the hole. The new scupper flange is larger than the old so it won't sit flush in the recessed space. Once you have a good flush fit you can apply a generous bead of Life Caulk to the flange that mates up to the fiberglass. Inside the bilge put another generous bead where the threaded valve comes through the hull. You will have to use your finger to spread this around the valve. Thread the large stainless steel nut onto the scupper valve and make it up as far as you can by hand. Then tighten snugly using the channel lock pliers. Then attach your white corrugated drain hose. I used two stainless steel clamps on this.

While you're in the lower bilge inspect ALL of your stainless steel hose clamps for corrosion or breakage. You actually want to put a socket on these and try to tighten them very slightly. I found two broken ones this way. Also check the black plastic nuts on the top side of your kill switches. I found both of mine cracked allowing the switches to be pushed down out of adjustment. It never killed my engines but would have had I not caught it.

An easier way to do this job is to call your neighbor @txav8r

 

[PEARCE]

The only part of the job that I'm concerned about is the grinding. I may check with a neighbor or two to see about how they could help me do that. However, it would be a good excuse to have a beer or two with Mel. He does need a boat to tinker with.

 

[Gym]

You couldn't find better help.

 

[Rigger]

Crappy pic but here's what it look's like finished - slightly oval!

 

[DCB-270]

Crappy pic but here's what it look's like finished - slightly oval!

View attachment 1187

Nice job and peace of mind knowing it's good.