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Springfield Pedestal Adjustment

So, attempted install yesterday. Had not much time, but looked to be simple. Brought my impact wrench, #3 Phillips bit... Old pedestal came out just fine. No issues!

Put the new base in place--and the screw holes didn't match up. Close, but no. So I will need to drill and tap. But that will solve the issue of the groove not facing forward. No time for that yesterday, so just put the old one back.

--to be continued
 
So, attempted install yesterday. Had not much time, but looked to be simple. Brought my impact wrench, #3 Phillips bit... Old pedestal came out just fine. No issues!

Put the new base in place--and the screw holes didn't match up. Close, but no. So I will need to drill and tap. But that will solve the issue of the groove not facing forward. No time for that yesterday, so just put the old one back.

--to be continued
Huh! I thought those were standard placement (bolts), kind of like wheel lags.
Well, at least we will be able to see nice pics of someone tapping that floor plate, right, lol?

--
 
When I was bolting the new pedestal I thought they didn’t line up as well . But I had to back the bolt out so the head was up about 1/4”. They were originally left loose but seated that pushed it off center. Take another look or break out the drill and tap .Drilling a hole was easy to make a new lock out for the pedestal shaft . So now I have the original lock out at 30’ from the wheel and the new one centered on the wheel.
 
Attempting to install my pediatal today. Bolts are being really stubborn. Sprayed with PB Blaster. How do you remove the seat from the post to allow for better access to the 6 bolts?
 
@ThatJeepGuy thanks. I had 3 of the 6 heads break off. Tried to remove the bolts by drilling them out and using a screw extractor. No dice. Guess I am going to be drilling new holes while ensuring the seat is properly aligned.
 
It happens. The only thing else you could have tried was heat..I did..and they still broke, so no telling.
 
Installed my pedestal today. All of the screws came right out with very little effort. That can probably be attributed to extreme lack of humidity here in the west desert. I installed it with the locking channel to the rear and, after trying it out, I'm probably content allowing it to swivel.
 
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That looks very similar to what I installed. Can’t definitely state it’s the same as it has a different name. I happen to still have the box....

Also per the listing the dimensions are similar...

Air Powered Height Adjustment from 14 in. to 20 in. Includes a 2 3/8" Diameter Post,
 

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Thanks VitaminSea. I think I'll give it a shot used(like new) for the price I could always send it back to Amazon.
 
Ok the Pedestal from Amazon ($98 used like new) came in and it is an exact match to what everyone else seems to have received, even came with a note from Springfield. Only problem Is I broke off two screws below gelcoat while taking out the old one. I am probably going to drill new holes and use a 1/4" tap for the new screws. Has anyone done this and if so what tips do you have for someone doing this the first time (tapping new holes)? Thanks
 
I am probably going to drill new holes and use a 1/4" tap for the new screws. Has anyone done this and if so what tips do you have for someone doing this the first time (tapping new holes)?
@tdonoughue ?

--
 
Ok the Pedestal from Amazon ($98 used like new) came in and it is an exact match to what everyone else seems to have received, even came with a note from Springfield. Only problem Is I broke off two screws below gelcoat while taking out the old one. I am probably going to drill new holes and use a 1/4" tap for the new screws. Has anyone done this and if so what tips do you have for someone doing this the first time (tapping new holes)? Thanks

That was exactly my experience. later on this evening I will reply with greater detail regarding my process.
 
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So I will preface this with, this was my first time tapping new holes. Additionally, I owe kudos to my neighbor, retired mechanical engineer who worked on Aircarft for Eastern Airlines and FedEx.

Take your new pedestal to the local hardware store and source the screws/bolts you wish to use, ensuring the fit properly into the base. I believe I sourced 1/4 x 1 #20 stainless bolts. (This might not even be the proper naming convention, but I know the bolts were 1/4 diameter).

Ensure your tap is of the same thread as your screws (that is fine or course).
I ended up using a 7/32nds drill bit.

Back on your boat, before you start, determine if you wish to fill in your old holes before you begin - I had some MarineTex around and filled the holes as I was also patching a spot where the Bimini rubbed on the gunnels while the prior owner was trailering the boat.

Verify in a scrap piece of wood that using the 7/32nds bit, followed by the tap (use manual force, not a drill on the tap), that your screws match the taps tread

Now on your boat, align the pedestal as you wish, and mark 1 screw location (lets say you are starting at 12 o’clock). Slowly drill into the deck, and ensure you are perpendicular to the deck (I was advised that drilling at slow/medium speed is actually more productive than drilling at high speed). The drill should easily cut through the fiberglass, and you will feel the resistance of the metal plate beneight. Here my neighbor suggested I reverse the drill and “clean the debris”, then continue drilling into the metal plate.

Once you are through the plate, its time to use the tap. Ensure the tap is properly aligned/perpendicular, and slowly thread the tap by hand. Once I started getting resistance, my neighbor suggested backing out the tap 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and spraying some WD-40 to help lubricate the process. Continue to turn the tap until you are certain you have threaded a distance equal to the length of your screws/bolts. Back out the tap, align the pedestal, and hand tighten your first screw.

Now alight the pedestal base as you wish, and mark the location of the screw opposite of the first (so this would be 6 o’clock). Repeat drilling and taping the hole. Hand tighten this screw. Then mark the bolt at 10 o’clock, and repeat drilling/tapping. I believe at this point, I marked the balance of the bolts and then continued the process.

I was also hesitant to over torque the screws once I was done, but I tightened them as one would lug nuts in a crisscrossing pattern a few times.

Suggestion, having a shop vac around will be beneficial as you will have lots of aluminum shavings. Sadly I missed a small piece and my daughter stepped on it, exclaiming that I am not good at vacuuming (she’s 5).

I think that’s about it. If you have the tools, its probably a 30min exercise if that. Good luck!

As an aside, I should have followed my neighbor’s instructions instead of the clown at Ace who suggested I did not need a tap and a 1/4 bit would suffice. So the first hole I drilled at 12 o’clock was too large for the bolt to grab... so I had to rotate the base, and I still have a seat that is slightly misaligned! Sigh!! I learned a lesson none the less...
 
I found that my tap and die set was a metric, and I needed SAE. So I ordered one. It arrived, but I have not been able to get out to the boat to try it out yet. So I am as educated by @VitaminSea as everyone else. Nice write up. Thanks!
 
@VitaminSea Thanks! I actually did it last night I guess right when you posted your great guide. After a bunch of Youtube videos on the subject I went to harbor freight and purchased a Tap set for $8 and looked up the original screws and found they were 1/4 - 20 x 1 1/4" Stainless picked em up at Home Depot. Only thing I wasn't sure of was what size drill bit for a 1/4 tap. I found a guide online that said a #7 bit or 13/64. I went slow in drilling and used a small screwdriver to measure I didn't go too deep as I think there are some metal braces that you hit if you go too far.

I also used an oversized bit to use as a counter sink to drill out the fiberglass stopping just at the aluminum, so the tap would just be biting into the metal first not the fiberglass.

All went pretty well which I'm surprised but after about the 4th hole I found it difficult to get the Tap to bite. I ended up having to go to Home Depot and buying a whole other Tap kit $30 because they were sold out of the $6 single 1/4 tap...ugg. But it worked perfectly so Harbor Freight's kit just wore down I guess.. figures...LOL.
Absolutely use a shop vac!! A mess to work with for sure without it. I filled in the old holes with some 5200 and also put some on the screws as well. Figured I was out of locktite and that should do the trick.

I was nervous about doing the job but now I know it's not that difficult. Just go slow, keep the WD-40 going, and like he said always counter rotate 1/4 turn for every half turn to clean out the burs.

It's not hard but you only have one shot at it. Love the new pedestal and can't wait to see how it feels this weekend!!
Thanks guys for this great post about the Pedestal I've been wondering if I could change the height of my seat since I bought the boat.
 
These are great write ups and tips. I finally got the chance to pull my old base.

After hitting all 6 with an impact and big Phillips bit, I sheered 4 of the 6 off. Two flush with the deck, and two just above the deck. Once I realized that none of the holes were going to line up, I was not too heartbroken. It would have been different if I had spent hours trying to drill them out. For me, they are just fillers. As once the new base is in place, you will never know they are there.

Tonight I plan on buying new bolts and a matching tap. For some reason my tap set is not the same pitch as these bolts. That's fine, as a fresh tap will cut nice.

From what I am hearing, you guys are measuring depth and not drilling all the way through that metal plate? I will probably do the same and stick the bit into an existing hole and put some tape on my bit for the 6 new holes.

I did get a chance to try the pedestal out without screwing down, and the height is going to be amazing!! What a nice upgrade.

Wish me luck!
 
Well, I stopped at the hardware store and bought a pack of new bolts and an Irwin Drill bit/Tap set. These sets are great as they not only give you a tap with matched threads to your bolt, a fresh new drill bit. The bolts came in 5-packs, so I had to use one old bolt. I put it to the backside.

As suggested, I hit my marks with a scratch awl to crack the gel coat to start my drilling. I was careful to drill one, and tap it, to help line up the base to get the opposite side started. Tapping aluminum is super easy. A person just needs to take their time. Since I had 4 sheered off, I actually drilled and tapped 6 holes.

I started all 6 with the base on so that the base could center itself. Once tightened up, it looks great. And I am more than thrilled with the seat height all the way down and up. It’s rock solid with these new holes. And all old holes are covered.
 

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After the first outing with the new seat post, I LOVE LOVE LOVE IT!!

So nice being able to adjust, and so nice to have back support instead of sitting on cushions!! I did note that the hydraulics needed a bit of encouragement to raise up, but that is just splitting hairs. It was worth every penny!

I was worried about throttle access, non issue. I was worried about the tilt steering not lining up right, non issue.
 
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