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Springfield Pedestal Adjustment

Yes, thanks everyone for your input & for sharing your solutions. Order one today as well.
 
I just got a UPS notification, that mine will be delivered tomorrow! And it's coming from Springfield marine directly. I guess Cascade is their outlet storefront.
 
Yes, thanks everyone for your input & for sharing your solutions. Order one today as well.
I just got a UPS notification, that mine will be delivered tomorrow! And it's coming from Springfield marine directly. I guess Cascade is their outlet storefront.
I'll be upset if either of you get a better free gift than me... not that I'm complaining. I didn't know I was getting a gift at all.
 
Ok, ok, ok... I went and ordered one, too. Now 3 left at that site, if you believe their counter.
 
So quick question for you guys. The drivers seat sits extremely low and the passenger seat sits extremely high. I hate this! Would it be possible to just unscrew both and switch them? I’d be happy as can be if it were only that easy.
 
There would be no real reason not. All you would have to do is either measure the screw holes to see if they matched. Or better yet, get out the tools and try.

You really can't hurt anything for trying. Just inspect the bolts/screws that you pull out to see if there was any sort of thread locker on them. My guess is there is a light thread locker of some sort that should be replaced. Be careful to start them by hand as not to cross thread them. Another guess is the plate below deck is probably aluminum and will strip easily.

So don't go get crazy with that new DeWalt impact some may be itching to use!! HA!

I'm excited for this upgrade. This is one of these sleeper upgrades that you may appreciate each and every day, but not think much of it once installed.
 
On my old boat I only got half the screws out, the other half had to be drilled...but I learned a heat gun can do wonders to help a stuck fastener. Because your boat is much newer the bolts will probably all come out easily, but if they don't consider some gentle heat from a heat gun to help, if the penetrating oil is not enough. Impact driver is very helpful too. just use good quality bits, or they will break apart (I thought my small impact was wimpy, but then the bits start shedding to pieces...can't blame impact driver anymore)
 
Swapped it out 4 of the Phillips heads stripped out even after applying heat I'm not sure if they were galled or they used lock tite. They were very tight the whole way out, two were high enough to grab with vise grips when the head gave out. The other two were drilled pedestal removed reheated and clamped with a vice grip and twisted out. While the seat was out the springs and metal on the bottom of the seat were coated with fluid film to prevent rusting. Home depot had everbilt Stainless 1/4in -20 x 1 1/4 in stock for replacements

My free gift was a guy flounder fishing

drilled a hole for the lock out to center on the steering wheel
 
Grr Phillips head. Why or why. Well, this sounds like a good use for a torch and impact. I just bought some solid impact ready phillips bits. So hopefully I can get mine out without too much issue. I guess it would not be the first time with a drill and tap either.
 
Mine were so bad I rotated and drilled all new holes. I'm hoping my bad luck averages out so that nobody else has the same situation!
 
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Got my pedestal today. But no free gift. :( Guess I am not gifted.
 
What about using a manual impact screwdriver? Given the problems stated, I'd personally be leery to start with a powered impact unless I knew there was no thread locker used on those screws. Not sure if there's enough room for this, but I would start with something like this, if possible


Hand-held impact driver
 
With what's being described it makes me wonder... If the backing plate under the floor as previously mentioned is aluminum and the screws being used to mount the base are stainless, what many be causing the stuck or corroded screws could be the results of a galvanic reaction between the dissimilar metals...? This could be made worse over time in the presence oi f moisture and more specifically salt water.
 
Yes, same for the bolts holding the fuel tank hatch in older models. With time and salt these things are pretty well fused with no chance of extraction without some destruction.
 
Got my pedestal today. But no free gift. :( Guess I am not gifted.

Mine arrived on Thursday. Felt like a kid rumminging through a Cracker Jack box, looking for the gift. In the same boat as you, I came up empty handed.

Appreciate everyone’s feedback on the install. Hoping to tackle it this weekend. Good to know a trip to HD might be necessary.
 
Sorry to hear some of you having issues. The dissimilar metal explanation makes sense. Luckily, on my 2014, the screws on the base came right out using an impact driver and a P3 bit.

The screws on the seat base were another matter. One of the hex heads was stripped from the factory (!!) and had to be drilled out. Not a big deal.

I’ve only used the boat about an hour since installing and am already loving the added height. It’s also great being able to swivel 180 degrees. Can’t beat the price.

Next up I’m considering removing the flip up bolster which is just in the way now. Does anyone have instructions on how to do that? Looks like some of the fabric would need to be installed to reach a few screws...is there an easier way?

DB22B2B5-A13C-4489-B9DB-EE6AB7049C5F.jpeg5DF9F375-144B-4705-B901-4B7F31E7BCF8.jpeg57EC5654-78EE-4C9A-B78E-7F314C7E45C8.jpeg75C8CEEA-037D-4B53-89E8-1A7C91F12822.jpegF80459DD-CB2A-4D73-A89A-427237F01703.jpeg489BE793-1806-4926-B8ED-3BDBD2FF4D00.jpeg134CD899-9BAB-4AA4-929B-2CD7A60DF2DB.jpeg
 
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With what's being described it makes me wonder... If the backing plate under the floor as previously mentioned is aluminum and the screws being used to mount the base are stainless, what many be causing the stuck or corroded screws could be the results of a galvanic reaction between the dissimilar metals...? This could be made worse over time in the presence oi f moisture and more specifically salt water.
Yes, same for the bolts holding the fuel tank hatch in older models. With time and salt these things are pretty well fused with no chance of extraction without some destruction.

If this is indeed what is happening (both for the pedestal base and the fuel tank hatch), according to this link, if I'm reading it right, then swapping out the bolts/screws to galvanized should solve the problem. Am I understanding this correctly? Would coating each fastener with something like dielectric grease be a solution as well?
 
The aluminum plate under these seats is substantial. See below
 

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Next up I’m considering removing the flip up bolster which is just in the way now.
Actually, that is sounds like a pretty good idea...
Let us know if you decide to tackle that.

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