The throttle/shifter Yamaha SHOULD have put on our boats...

[swatski]

I was referring to just buying the e series throttles alone as a replacement for the aps on the non eseries. The aps is just a 2 channel 5v ref potentiometer for each engine. The e series throttles are exactly that as well prior to plugging into the BCU computer (the wiring diagram confirms this). From there a custom controller and servos would be cheaper for the buckets as a replacment for the bcu and e series bucket servos.

Got it! I knew you know what the hell you are talking about! LOL.

But this is still hardly comforting, as I keep thinking of a nightmare scenario that would go something like this:
you plug all these parts, control boxes, the ECUs, BCUs, and what not
power it all up and...
it all just all goes to hell as the electronics don't communicate...
Then what...

There is enough gremlins in a strait out-of-factory E-boats...

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[Mainah]

Got it! I knew you know what the hell you are talking about! LOL.

But this is still hardly comforting, as I keep thinking of a nightmare scenario that would go something like this:
you plug all these parts, the ECUs and what not
power it all up and...
it all just all goes to hell as the electronics don't communicate...
Then what...

There is enough gremlins in a strait out-of-factory E-boats...

--

Agreed but this would be stand alone and mostly analog. The only digital piece added would the the ADC to convert the analog 5v signal into pwm for the servos and that would be a custom stand alone part. Like I said earlier more work than I think it is worth. Candidly it like any electronic piece would prone to failure at the most inopportune time. Wait electrical and mechanical parts made by Yamaha already do that. Ha.

 

[Mainah]

Absolutely! Although I'm not sure how durable it would be, certainly not as durable as aluminum.

My son is a Mechanical Engineer and has access to a really expensive 3D printer at his work. My problem is I'm old school and don't like numbers. haha. I don't even have a DRO (digital read out) on my mill or lathe because I do better just eyeballing things. I literally make parts like this without any plans or exact measurements. I just come up with an idea in my head and it comes out of my hands. lol. You can't do that with a 3D printer. So I don't have one and probably never will. I'll leave those ideas to my son!

Hang on and wear a life jacket if you try the following... buckets full up (foward), throttle to top speed, then in rapid motions, drop throttles all the way, wheel hard over to port, nail the throttles. This is one of those moves that works best when you can leave the buckets up.

 

[zipper]

Very nice! Another high quality mod. out of @gmtech16450yz 's shop. The detail in your work is admirable. That TPS cam is nice.

 

[gmtech16450yz]

Hang on and wear a life jacket if you try the following... buckets full up (foward), throttle to top speed, then in rapid motions, drop throttles all the way, wheel hard over to port, nail the throttles. This is one of those moves that works best when you can leave the buckets up.

Exactly! When I actually "mapped" the stock throttle and bucket movements and realized the bucket isn't open all the way until the engine throttle is at around 1/3 throttle, I realized how inefficient that is. If I'm going fast, yeah I'm gonna want those buckets to stay wide open. But even for trolling or no wake speeds, I'd much rather have the buckets open than to overcome the partial bucket restriction by having to use more throttle.

 

[Speedling]

This is awesome

 

[swatski]

Exactly! When I actually "mapped" the stock throttle and bucket movements and realized the bucket isn't open all the way until the engine throttle is at around 1/3 throttle, I realized how inefficient that is. If I'm going fast, yeah I'm gonna want those buckets to stay wide open. But even for trolling or no wake speeds, I'd much rather have the buckets open than to overcome the partial bucket restriction by having to use more throttle.

You are gonna need to run with that lanyard clipped on!

BTW - I don’t think I ever posted on it, I love those intake grate mods of yours, I think those help quite a bit in turns.

—

 

[gmtech16450yz]

Screw that stupid lanyard! It's messed me up twice already. Didn't realize somebody took it out and it took me awhile to realize why the engines wouldn't start! I think I might actually take it out and jump the wires.

I also think that minor mod to the grates made a noticeable difference. I still haven't taken my boat out since I did V 2.0 of the intake tunnels and the nozzle/pump/rudders work I did either. By the time I take it out there's gonna be a dozen mods to try out.

 

[swatski]

Screw that stupid lanyard! It's messed me up twice already. Didn't realize somebody took it out and it took me awhile to realize why the engines wouldn't start! I think I might actually take it out and jump the wires.

I also think that minor mod to the grates made a noticeable difference. I still haven't taken my boat out since I did V 2.0 of the intake tunnels and the nozzle/pump/rudders work I did either. By the time I take it out there's gonna be a dozen mods to try out.

Well, with the right performance mods, these boats can become very, very quick. In fact, they can be so quick - let's just say - I would strongly recommend clipping on the lanyard when riding aggressively. Saved my a$$ recently. That's all I'm going to say, here.
(more - someday, over a beer or coffee!)

--

 

[bronze_10]

Damn ..this thread got way over my head quick!

 

[Beachbummer]

.... Saved my a$$ recently. That's all I'm going to say, here.
(more - someday, over a beer or coffee!)

--

There's a story right there!!!!,,,

(According to my phone, that's beer and coffee)

 

[gmtech16450yz]

Well I took the boat out in the SF Bay today. ALL mods working perfectly!!! The throttles are amazing. Having the bucket control separate from the throttles is the way it should be set up from the factory. It's SO much easier to dock and so much easier just driving around. I can go a little more than 3mph at idle/throttles closed with the buckets wide open, something you can't actually do with the stock setup.

The rpm/throttle control is amazing. The fact that the resolution is so much better with the increased lever range means the engines stay synced much easier. I never once had to fudge one or the other lever up or down to have both engines running at the exact same rpm. As much time as I spent trying to get the mechanical part of my stock throttle levers/cables and APS's in sync, the problem is there's really no way to keep them exact at every throttle angle. These Morse/Teleflex throttles and my pulley modifications are exactly matched all the way through the range from idle to wot. And they stay exactly where you put them! I'm thrilled with the change and the time spent was well worth it.

The other mods I finally got a chance to test out was I added a bilge pump at the very back of the hull that runs when the blowers run. It works great for keeping that last bit of water out of the back that the main pump doesn't trigger on. I also switched the blowers from being wired in parallel to running is series so they don't sound like there's a giant leaf blower loose in the back of the boat. I did a bunch of sound deadening in the rear compartment, and also wrapped the water traps/mufflers with insulation. The larger exhaust outlets I made and the exhaust re-route and insulation ended up with the sound out the back of the boat being a little louder (fine with me) and the sound in the boat being WAY quieter. Really noticeable at slow speeds and idling. You can't hear much of anything coming from the engine or rear compartments, just the occasional exhaust outlet sound when it's out of the water in waves.

 

[swatski]

Well I took the boat out in the SF Bay today. ALL mods working perfectly!!! The throttles are amazing. Having the bucket control separate from the throttles is the way it should be set up from the factory. It's SO much easier to dock and so much easier just driving around. I can go a little more than 3mph at idle/throttles closed with the buckets wide open, something you can't actually do with the stock setup.

The rpm/throttle control is amazing. The fact that the resolution is so much better with the increased lever range means the engines stay synced much easier. I never once had to fudge one or the other lever up or down to have both engines running at the exact same rpm. As much time as I spent trying to get the mechanical part of my stock throttle levers/cables and APS's in sync, the problem is there's really no way to keep them exact at every throttle angle. These Morse/Teleflex throttles and my pulley modifications are exactly matched all the way through the range from idle to wot. And they stay exactly where you put them! I'm thrilled with the change and the time spent was well worth it.

The other mods I finally got a chance to test out was I added a bilge pump at the very back of the hull that runs when the blowers run. It works great for keeping that last bit of water out of the back that the main pump doesn't trigger on. I also switched the blowers from being wired in parallel to running is series so they don't sound like there's a giant leaf blower loose in the back of the boat. I did a bunch of sound deadening in the rear compartment, and also wrapped the water traps/mufflers with insulation. The larger exhaust outlets I made and the exhaust re-route and insulation ended up with the sound out the back of the boat being a little louder (fine with me) and the sound in the boat being WAY quieter. Really noticeable at slow speeds and idling. You can't hear much of anything coming from the engine or rear compartments, just the occasional exhaust outlet sound when it's out of the water in waves.

That's fantastic! I am thinking about these aftermarket throttles, this makes so much sense.
Are you still considering the MEGAs, with the double MEGA FANGs and those new Morse or Livosi throttle levers - these boats would be just awesome.

When you did the water box insulation - where you able to fit the boxes back in? I would like to do that but remember struggling to put the water box back in when I insulated it heavily (in my 190) - ended up needing to remove most of it to get it back in.

Did you use any other acoustic foam in the bilge compartment? - I'm debating that, installing some of those acoustic foam wedges there.

--

 

[gmtech16450yz]

That's fantastic! I am thinking about these aftermarket throttles, this makes so much sense.
Are you still considering the MEGAs, with the double MEGA FANGs and those new Morse or Livosi throttle levers - these boats would be just awesome.

When you did the water box insulation - where you able to fit the boxes back in? I would like to do that but remember struggling to put the water box back in when I insulated it heavily (in my 190) - ended up needing to remove most of it to get it back in.

Did you use any other acoustic foam in the bilge compartment? - I'm debating that, installing some of those acoustic foam wedges there.

--

On the water boxes, I wrapped them very tightly with motorcycle muffler packing fiberglass, then wrapped safety wire around that, then wrapped foil tape around the entire thing. They're not that much bigger than without, but obviously wrapping basically empty aluminum cans with anything is going to deaden the sound a ton. I just ran the engines to flush out the salt water and I literally put my ear to the rear cleanout door and couldn't hear a thing! I also listened for "escaping" engine noise from the main engine compartment and it's totally silent everywhere. So when the engines are running, the only thing you hear is the exhaust out the back. I do love these Yamaha engines!

I did use foam insulation in the rear bilge compartment and it the engine compartment. I made sure the front area of the engine compartment was insulated sound wise and it made a pretty noticeable difference. I'm done with soundproofing it, there's not much more to be gained.

I did do one more mod, I'll take pics tomorrow. I made a larger storage compartment and drink holder next to the drivers seat. My Hydroflask won't fit in any of the cupholders and that little plastic tray was worthless! I did leave the lanyard switch though, and just for you, when the wind picked up and the SF Bay was getting rough I actually clipped in on my inflatable life vest!

 

[swatski]

On the water boxes, I wrapped them very tightly with motorcycle muffler packing fiberglass, then wrapped safety wire around that, then wrapped foil tape around the entire thing. They're not that much bigger than without, but obviously wrapping basically empty aluminum cans with anything is going to deaden the sound a ton. I just ran the engines to flush out the salt water and I literally put my ear to the rear cleanout door and couldn't hear a thing! I also listened for "escaping" engine noise from the main engine compartment and it's totally silent everywhere. So when the engines are running, the only thing you hear is the exhaust out the back. I do love these Yamaha engines!

I did use foam insulation in the rear bilge compartment and it the engine compartment. I made sure the front area of the engine compartment was insulated sound wise and it made a pretty noticeable difference. I'm done with soundproofing it, there's not much more to be gained.

I did do one more mod, I'll take pics tomorrow. I made a larger storage compartment and drink holder next to the drivers seat. My Hydroflask won't fit in any of the cupholders and that little plastic tray was worthless! I did leave the lanyard switch though, and just for you, when the wind picked up and the SF Bay was getting rough I actually clipped in on my inflatable life vest!

View attachment 66556 View attachment 66557 View attachment 66558 View attachment 66559
View attachment 66560

John, I'm just smiling - this is so fan-tas-tic.

You are gonna make me love Yamaha again, LOL.

So, I can't tell, did you cut out a larger opening in that wet compartment tray/bottom? That would totally make sense. And - of course - would make all the bilge/stern mods including trim tabs, ballast intake and pumps, bilge pump, etc etc so much easier, too, LOL.

--

 

[swatski]

I did leave the lanyard switch though, and just for you, when the wind picked up and the SF Bay was getting rough I actually clipped in on my inflatable life vest!

That's funny. But I do think those intake mods make a substantial difference in pump loading, especially in turns. So, along with the fins, it is not difficult to go flying across the cockpit.
Don't ask me.

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[zipper]

That's funny. But I do think those intake mods make a substantial difference in pump loading, especially in turns. So, along with the fins, it is not difficult to go flying across the cockpit.
Don't ask me.

--

Rumor has it, it is a zig-zag manuver first to the left and back to the right while holding a camera in one hand that causes one to fly around the cockpit.

 

[gmtech16450yz]

So, I can't tell, did you cut out a larger opening in that wet compartment tray/bottom?


Nope, that's just with the larger access panel removed.

And how come nobody noticed that those water traps look like giant Ho Ho's now?

 

[swatski]

Rumor has it, it is a zig-zag manuver first to the left and back to the right while holding a camera in one hand that causes one to fly around the cockpit.

No way. Who would possibly be so dumb to even attempt such a maneuver..?

—

 

[gmtech16450yz]

Oh wait... I just realized most of you guys weren't around when Ho Ho's and Ding Dong's were wrapped in foil!