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These Kenwood Amps are a fantastic value..

bronze_10 said:
Could i use my negative block for the amp instal? It has 10 gauge wire stright to the negative on the batteries
Click to expand...

You have me there. The safe answer is no. The industry standard is to use the same size wiring for the positive and negative. As the negative wire is typically shorter in automotive applications there is no need for such a large wire on the negative side. So this must be done for appearance.

I may do some testing after hooking up my amps. The question is one of physics. How many electrons are returning to the battery. Our amplifiers are sending current through the speakers. Some of that is converted to electromagic energy (force) another portion is converted to heat but how much flows back to the battery.

In residential AC electrical installations it is an accepted practice to share a neutral (negative) wire between two circuits.
 
The exact same amount of electric current runs through the positive and negative wires on a circuit. That's why it matters that the positive and negative are the same size.
 
That's not correct. The characteristics of the circuit will determine current flow. (Resistance, inductance, capacitance, parallel paths, series paths, etc...) Electrical energy is transformed into sound and heat, but current remains constant throughout the circuit from positive to negative throughout the circuit. If you put an amp clamp on the positive and negative cables near the battery, you'll see the exact same current in an opposite polarity.
 
Amps came via UPS tonight. Opened up the boxes and holy cow they're small. Love how compact they are! Now to plan the install.
 
Gotta go with @Bill D on this one. The amps in definitely equal the amps out. The energy you correctly observe is expended is not spent from the resistance of the circuit in the form of electrons stopping their movement. It is spent in the form of those electrons slowing across the entire path they travel (in and out).

If the amps in do not match the amps out to your battery, then you have leakage somewhere, like to ground. See the ground fault discussion (though that is AC). In those cases, still the total amps in equals total amps out, it is just that some of the amps in are coming from ground (the water) rather than from the neutral pole (the 'negative').
 
@Bill D, @tdonoughue, you guys are right. Sorry about that. I checked with my EE brother and he insists that you are correct.

I was thinking that the dissipation of power was the dissipation of the electrons flowing through the wire when in reality it is the dissipation of the potential energy stored in the battery. The electrons keep marching on the energy loss is the potential not the electrons.
 
Bruce said:
@Bill D, @tdonoughue, you guys are right. Sorry about that. I checked with my EE brother and he insists that you are correct.

I was thinking that the dissipation of power was the dissipation of the electrons flowing through the wire when in reality it is the dissipation of the potential energy stored in the battery. The electrons keep marching on the energy loss is the potential not the electrons.
Click to expand...

Think of it as though voltage is the force (pressure) moving the current. Your wire needs to be specced to carry the amount of amperage you expect you will use total, the electrical code books for any country will specify this and most at least between Canada/US are similar, Check out the attached chart. I will be running a 1/0 Power/Ground as I expect to have 3 amps total, a fish finder and some lighting circuits. Keep in mind this chart takes the assumption that you are using OFC Copper I believe.

This image is from crutchfield. Good read.

Gauge-Chart.jpg

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-xXNbnIsuhrX/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html
 
Ran cables this afternoon, but it got me wondering how did other folks crimp the connectors on the wire for the large gauge wire? Not sure I can get a good crimp from my Motorola crimpers on this 4 gauge.
 
firecap797 said:
Ran cables this afternoon, but it got me wondering how did other folks crimp the connectors on the wire for the large gauge wire? Not sure I can get a good crimp from my Motorola crimpers on this 4 gauge.
Click to expand...

I used vice grips and shrink tubing.
 
firecap797 said:
Ran cables this afternoon, but it got me wondering how did other folks crimp the connectors on the wire for the large gauge wire? Not sure I can get a good crimp from my Motorola crimpers on this 4 gauge.
Click to expand...
I bought a set of hydraulic crimpers that works bad ass up to 00 gauge. Before that I'd smash them with a hammer, then torch solder them. Not pretty, but I never had a failure.
 
So I know many of you have received these by now for those who have installed what is the first impression of them?
 
Wow. I guess I'm calling the local tool rental tomorrow.
 
No, no, no. PM me your address. I will send you mine. A good whack with a hammer on the tool I have and you're set. And you will be regretting ever thinking of buying anything. Tool is stupid simple...
 
Chip F. said:
There are special crimp tools just for this . I was lucky to have access at work . Here is what it looks like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thomas-Bett...w-8-Dies-Case-and-over-200-Lugs-/222488347883
Click to expand...

I have the same tool at home right now borrowed from work lol.

robert843 said:
So I know many of you have received these by now for those who have installed what is the first impression of them?
Click to expand...

I will hopefully have my install done by end of week, i'll let you know.
 
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