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Throttle Dropping? Check here!

biffdotorg

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The whole idea of the tape fix, is it allows the tension screws at the base of the throttles to do their job without adding so much tension as to make the throttles sticky.

You will still want some tension with those two screws. But it was found, that those two forks would add about 500rpm of slop. If your throttles are dropping more than that (sounds like it) then you need to adjust the throttle tension screws as well. Tighten them up so that they hold, but are not stuff to push.

But don't give up yet. The tension screws are not the fix for the 500rpm drop, the tape method is for that.

Good luck!
 

GeauxDeep

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The whole idea of the tape fix, is it allows the tension screws at the base of the throttles to do their job without adding so much tension as to make the throttles sticky.

You will still want some tension with those two screws. But it was found, that those two forks would add about 500rpm of slop. If your throttles are dropping more than that (sounds like it) then you need to adjust the throttle tension screws as well. Tighten them up so that they hold, but are not stuff to push.

But don't give up yet. The tension screws are not the fix for the 500rpm drop, the tape method is for that.

Good luck!
Ok. I’m going to finish up the other side in the morning and then I’ll try some adjustment on the tension screws and see if the combination of the two does the trick. I tried the tension screws a while back but obviously without doing this fix too it didn’t do any good. Thanks!
 

biffdotorg

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Perfect. Take the screwdriver with you to the lake as well. That's when you will notice for sure.

Good luck!
 

Gym

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Ok. I’m going to finish up the other side in the morning and then I’ll try some adjustment on the tension screws and see if the combination of the two does the trick. I tried the tension screws a while back but obviously without doing this fix too it didn’t do any good. Thanks!
When you're done the only thing you'll need to constantly hold is your beer.
 

GeauxDeep

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When you're done the only thing you'll need to constantly hold is your beer.
Sweet! Sounds great to me!!!!
 

Zeusmotorworks

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Sooo drop is fixed... much better! Only issue is that they are not synced by about 700rpm. Will have to figure that out to satisfy my OCD!
 

suke

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For this I tried pushing my metal rods together and they didn't budge. I was giving it the business so hard I was afraid I would either break my pliers OR the shifter. So I took a rubber seal and cut it up, stuffed it down in so it wrapped that fork. I did that to one side and it has been flawless. Need to do the other side as it drops now.....which it didn't previously LOL!
 

mattster

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Well, I’ll let ya know...I used some of my favorite fixes—cable ties! 99718
 

GeauxDeep

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Finished mine Thursday morning and was able to get out Friday and test it. What a difference! Awesome write up, great pictures! The first one probably took me about an hour but the second one only took about 15 minutes. Working great so far. First time in 4 years of owning the boat that i've been able to completely let go of the throttles and not continuously hold them in place. Was even able to let my 14 year old daughter drive for a while. Thanks for the info. Great job!
 

sienaaof

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I did this fix about a month ago and haven't had a chance to post my results but it really has changed how I feel about the boat, for the better! I did the pinch method and then adjusted my tension screws as well (which I am still tweeking) but the drive-ability and ease of control now is so much improved it makes me love this boat even more. It also makes driving it easier for other people who aren't as experienced as I am. I rarely use the no-wake mode anymore as I feel it is a little too slow especially going against the current here on the CT River, but now I can put the throttles right where I want them and maintain whatever speed I want without having my hand glued to the throttles. Thanks so much for this write up, everyone should be doing this mod, can't believe the factory is still putting this faulty product out there.
 

JoseCuervo

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Right on the spot !! 2019 AR210 with 60 hrs I’ve been dealing with this issue even took it to the dealer for throttle adjustment. And pretty much the same and it got worse.
I followed your post and right on it !!! I only need to adjust left side just a hair now but I can call the problem off or nonexistent any more. !!! Great post thank you so much for taking the time to put it on !!!!
My experience was about 25 min per throttle and the most difficult thing was the center C-clip it’s different to the rest.
thanks again
 

Scottintexas

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Right on the spot !! 2019 AR210 with 60 hrs I’ve been dealing with this issue even took it to the dealer for throttle adjustment. And pretty much the same and it got worse.
I followed your post and right on it !!! I only need to adjust left side just a hair now but I can call the problem off or nonexistent any more. !!! Great post thank you so much for taking the time to put it on !!!!
My experience was about 25 min per throttle and the most difficult thing was the center C-clip it’s different to the rest.
thanks again
thanks for sharing your results with us, hopefully it will inspire another member to try to do it,
 

Damsroy

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I did the fix on my 2016 AR240 as well. Only the starboard side need to be addressed.
Easy fix with all the guidance provided here and after a few outings i can confirm it is much much better!
 

mattster

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Well, I’ll let ya know...I used some of my favorite fixes—cable ties! View attachment 99718
My cable ties have worked pretty well, but after a season, I think I'm going to go back in with some small stainless cable clamps, and do both sides. this is very frustrating...
 

washipdog

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First, the link to the YJB thread I did for this:
Yamaha Jet Boaters • View topic - Lets solve the Throttle Drop issue! Solved?

What's Throttle drop? When you have to push the throttle past where you actually want it to go, so it can drop back down to where you want it.
How is it fixed in a nutshell? By opening it up, finding the fingers that hold the tensioner spring with a small tab and pinching it tight or wedging it tight.
Sounds simple enough, but it's actually a large process getting into the throttles.
Mechanically inclined people can do this in about half an hour, the rest of you probably an hour, but it's fairly straight forward.
My pictures will help once I get that all on here as well.

Copied from my other post:
************If you do this, and can water test if it is indeed successful, please let us know!******************
Notes/Tips:
This is to get rid of throttle drop, NOT the little bit of play in the throttle levers themselves. That can wait for now.
Keep rags handy as there is a decent amount of grease in there.
You may want to label Port and Starboard, but locating the tensioner screws can help you get things back together.
I didn't need anything special, or make any custom parts, although, I surely could have.
This could take you as little as 30 minutes to do both sides, but set aside a good couple hours and a couple beers just in case.
Philips screwdriver, Flat head screwdriver, tool to remove c-clips, and electrical tape are all that's needed. I used a cordless drill for the philips screw/bolts and it worked great.

First, the steps in writing:
1. Pop the small cover at the rear of the throttle assembly where the tensioner screws are located.
2. Loosen the tensioner bolts (the flatheaded screws) just until loose.
3. Take the 2 Philips screws out and remove the plastic cover. You may need to push one throttle lever forward to twist it out.
4. Take out the 4 Philips head screws/bolts that hold the assembly into the boat. As you pull the assembly out, be sure to watch for two small plastic pieces under the throttle levers as they can fall off and into the hole of the boat. They aren't all that necessary, just small trim pieces.
5. Unscrew 2 screw/bolts at the top (somewhat hidden by some foam in my pictures) and one bolt and nut at the bottom. These hold the two halves together. (for dual engine boats only)
6. Label Port and Starboard, especially if you plan on doing both outside of the boat at the same time.
7. Optional: Disconnect the wire harness. This is the neutral cut off switch. Be sure to label them if you are taking out both sides at the same time so you don't have them hooked backwards. This needs to be done if you are working on them outside of the boat.
8. Take out the two screws on bottom of the black back panel and remove that panel
9. Take off the C-clip on the gold colored cable (this is your throttle) and pull the cable up out of the assembly.
10. Remove the rubber spacer between the two cables and DON'T lose it. This is required for the cables to be situated in the assembly later.
11. Remove the next C-clip by putting throttles in REVERSE all the way including the reverse throttle. (not just first indent) At this point you can test the slop in your throttle assembly. Put it in forward and put it at various amounts of throttle and watch how the levers actuate and how it drops slightly after you let go. This is what we are CORRECTING TODAY! YAY FOR YOU!
12. Remove 4 bolts holding the top black panel and remove said panel.
13. Remove the C-clip on the metal slide, right in the middle.
14. Remove the slide piece. Mine was stuck with grease and such and I used a flat headed screwdriver to give it a quick pry. This shouldn't take much effort.
15. Pull off the arm with the nylon bushing. You may need to loosen the tensioner some more if you didn't do so previously. This acts as a clamp on this bushing. Also, see if there is any irregularities in the nylon. If so, you may need to find a replacement.
16. Grab the tensioner and clap and pull it out as you are turning it to remove from the assembly. Don't lose the washer!!
a) Where mine had the most problem and success of getting rid of it was with the clamp you just removed between the fork. I wrapped some electrical tape around it about 10 times and it was very tight when I put it back in, to the point of having the tape squish out around the fork. This got rid of any slack, and got rid of the drop, at least in tests in the garage.
b) The shaft that the nylon bushing rides on can be misaligned slightly. I did this with my first one, and it helped some. Loosen the two 10mm bolts but don't take them out. Pry the forked piece away from the assembly housing and re-tighten the bolts. This may or may not be your problem. It did seem to help on one of them for me. If you do this, and it solves your problem, you may want to throw some loc-tight the bolts and put them back in. I really have no explanation as to why there is so much slack in this piece.
17. If you put the tensioner piece back on, the nylon piece with the attached arm, the metal slide, and the top black backing plate, you can test to see if you were successful. If so, wonderful! I'm glad it helped! Now put it back together and enjoy! If not, post it up here so we can help!
18. Be sure to re-tighten your tensioner before you test it and think it's super loose and you broke something.
19. When putting the metal slide back on, be sure you have the BOTTOM slot on the top pin.
20 put the c-clip back on the metal slide, put the cables back on, WITH THE SPACER between them, again, with the bottom one needing to be in reverse to do it.
21. Put the backing plate back on.
22. Do the other side
23. Bolt them back together and put back into the boat.
24. Enjoy/test/rant/rave!
@Speedling thanks for this awesome write up. I performed this on my 2019 FSH and man what a difference. I can now go out to sea without constantly holding the throttles. This has made the boat so much more enjoyable!! Thanks again.
 

biffdotorg

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I am amazed that the mfg of the throttles has not made any changes to these for current model boats. It has to be known to them. I was thinking they had changed them, as I had not heard the issue in the later models. Or people are just living with it. If anyone is listening, do this fix, enjoy your boat again with one hand. (everyone needs a free hand while driving)
 

jgourlie

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I did the fix and it’s been pretty good. I think I might have to loosen the tension screw as I sometimes have an issue giving it just a “little” more throttle. Otherwise it’s a 99% fix
 

scokill

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Just an FYI. This was recommended by Perfect Pass to stop the throttles from dropping. I'm assuming it puts some tension on the cables. I'm going to give it a shot and install at the engine compartment. Teleflex Morse Control Cable Brakes
 

Cleveland Steamer

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I want to try this fix but I’m not sure I understand the process. The photos are blurry and difficult to understand what I need to do..
 
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