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Throttle Dropping? Check here!

Special thanks to @Speedling for this write up. Excellent. I modified just a bit. I had my roof replaced and saved the original copper valley pans. I cut small 1/4 inch wide strips couple inches long. I used it to wedge into controls, worked like a charm and I didn’t have to take everything apart to do it. Just the single black cover to expose it. The copper was to thick to put between both sides of the “fork”. I chose to put on the side closest to outside control box. View attachment 70400 View attachment 70401 View attachment 70402 View attachment 70403 However I did remove bucket cables to push oil through them.
See that here. https://jetboaters.net/threads/diy-steering-cable-luber.9755/page-2#post-288159
Great idea
 
So, after season 4 of throttle drop issues being left unfixed by my dealer. . . . .(pretty pissed actually). . . . I realized after this weekend they just kept using the tensioner because now the throttles are "sticky" as hell. Further frustrating me is they still take effort to sync up due to "drop".

Gonna get on this fix as soon as I get the supplies to oil the cables while I am in there. Relying on the dealer to fix this just isn't working.
 
I did mine with the crimp method instead of the tape. 3rd season with +100 hours. Never dropped again
 
So, after season 4 of throttle drop issues being left unfixed by my dealer. . . . .(pretty pissed actually). . . . I realized after this weekend they just kept using the tensioner because now the throttles are "sticky" as hell. Further frustrating me is they still take effort to sync up due to "drop".

Gonna get on this fix as soon as I get the supplies to oil the cables while I am in there. Relying on the dealer to fix this just isn't working.

This is a long term bandaid fix that a dealer would never perform. The fact that it is so easy to do, there is no excuse not to pull them and do it yourself. It looks complicated when looking at this write up. But after you pull the first one apart, you realize how good the write up is and actually how simple the job is. You will kick yourself for not doing it four years ago. Just do it, and stop waiting for lube that you have not missed in four years
 
Lol I guess you guys with the new boats can bring it into the dealer and tell them to look at my thread.

I have. . . . Each year for the last 3 off seasons. . . . and all they do is mess with the tensioner. Finally working on this fix in the a.m.
 
I have. . . . Each year for the last 3 off seasons. . . . and all they do is mess with the tensioner. Finally working on this fix in the a.m.
I hope it goes well for you!
The tl;dr version:
Take apart, look for the fork that locks in the pin on te shifter, pinch tight or wedge tight.
 
I hope it goes well for you!
The tl;dr version:
Take apart, look for the fork that locks in the pin on te shifter, pinch tight or wedge tight.

DONE.

After my last post on the thread I figured I would use the last bit of daylight to get a head start on (what I was going to put off until tomorrow).

@biffdotorg I could KICK MYSELF for not doing this sooner. As soon as I had them out and apart I lost daylight. . . . but it was so easy I FINISHED THE PORT ONE BY MOONLIGHT.

Once I put the port one back together my oldest brought me my headlamp and I quickly did the starboard one, re-assembled them both, and got them both mounted back in the boat.

CAN NOT WAIT to put this to the test in the a.m. . . . .

Would not have had the confidence to pull these apart and mess with this without such a great write up. . . . Thanks again @Speedling
 
Is this still the preferred method for a 2018? My rpms slightly drop when I let go of the throttle in the middle range. Should I mess with the tension screw first?
 
Is this still the preferred method for a 2018? My rpms slightly drop when I let go of the throttle in the middle range. Should I mess with the tension screw first?

What model 2018? If you have an E-series boat I am not certain this will work.
 
DONE.

After my last post on the thread I figured I would use the last bit of daylight to get a head start on (what I was going to put off until tomorrow).

@biffdotorg I could KICK MYSELF for not doing this sooner. As soon as I had them out and apart I lost daylight. . . . but it was so easy I FINISHED THE PORT ONE BY MOONLIGHT.

Once I put the port one back together my oldest brought me my headlamp and I quickly did the starboard one, re-assembled them both, and got them both mounted back in the boat.

CAN NOT WAIT to put this to the test in the a.m. . . . .

Would not have had the confidence to pull these apart and mess with this without such a great write up. . . . Thanks again @Speedling

Forgot to post a follow up. . . . .this fix has been AMAZING. . . . Works BETTER than it did new. Was close to pulling trigger on Hydrophase before I did this . . . . No longer necessary.
 
Is this still the preferred method for a 2018? My rpms slightly drop when I let go of the throttle in the middle range. Should I mess with the tension screw first?
Dont bother with the tension screws, its not the problem. Do the fix, you will like the results
 
Got it. If I just use needle nose pliers to tighten the fork is there any need remove any of the snap rings or bushings??
 
DONE.

After my last post on the thread I figured I would use the last bit of daylight to get a head start on (what I was going to put off until tomorrow).

@biffdotorg I could KICK MYSELF for not doing this sooner. As soon as I had them out and apart I lost daylight. . . . but it was so easy I FINISHED THE PORT ONE BY MOONLIGHT.

Once I put the port one back together my oldest brought me my headlamp and I quickly did the starboard one, re-assembled them both, and got them both mounted back in the boat.

CAN NOT WAIT to put this to the test in the a.m. . . . .

Would not have had the confidence to pull these apart and mess with this without such a great write up. . . . Thanks again @Speedling

Nice work! I to thought this looked very daunting when reading the write up. But after opening the first, the pics were perfect, and it was an easy job. I would have not wanted to do it in the dark.

I’m glad you got it done. It’s a very satisfying fix when it works so well. Nice job!
 
Nice work! I to thought this looked very daunting when reading the write up. But after opening the first, the pics were perfect, and it was an easy job. I would have not wanted to do it in the dark.

I’m glad you got it done. It’s a very satisfying fix when it works so well. Nice job!
Agree its pretty easy. I removed the drivers seat and sat on the floor. It was a great and easy fix
 
Got it. If I just use needle nose pliers to tighten the fork is there any need remove any of the snap rings or bushings??
So for anyone that has done this on a single engine boat by just pinching the tabs, any need to remove the bushings or c-clips? My track record indicates the less I have to mess with stuff the better.
 
So for anyone that has done this on a single engine boat by just pinching the tabs, any need to remove the bushings or c-clips? My track record indicates the less I have to mess with stuff the better.
If u can get to the tabs you can certainly do it. I just documented as i went along my journey. Partially so i could see how it all works and partially so i could put it back together.
 
Finally tackled this...it was straightforward as everyone said. I just closed the gap in the fork with pliers. Now that it is all back together, any suggestions how to set the tension? I don’t seem to feel big difference in resistance based upon screw tightness but I haven’t tried to really tighten it much. I saw something that mentioned loosening the screw four turns and then tightening until snug.
 
Awww heck. I have been living with one throttle dropping forever. This is pretty much a zero dollar mod. Why am I still hesitating to pull the throttles?
 
Awww heck. I have been living with one throttle dropping forever. This is pretty much a zero dollar mod. Why am I still hesitating to pull the throttles?

4 seasons wasted for me. . . . .best fix yet. Just Do It.
 
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