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Throttle Dropping? Check here!

@DBamaC mine had a ton lots of grease in it. There was no need add any. Hopefully yours will be the same.
 
I have to bring in the old girl for some warranty repair at the end of the season. . . . Is it unreasonable to expect the dealer to fix the throttle drop issue with this method, and NOT by using the tensioner at the end of the cable?
 
They won't do this typically.
 
They won't do this typically.

So I have heard. . . .but the question is more one for measuring the forums opinion on the subject.

Is it unreasonable to believe the dealer/Yamaha should fix the issue it came with from the factory on a $50k+ new boat under warranty?
 
Most would say they should but then they would probably order a new part or something no? Problem is the parts from thecompany making the throttles made them with some slack.
 
I'm planning to do this mod this weekend. I have a couple of questions. Has anyone with a single engine completed this mod yet and if so, were there any differences of consequence in the throttle assembly? Also, when reassembling, is there any need to re-lubricate the mechanism and if there is, what lubricant would be recommended? I see that it is pumped full of grease so additional lubricant isn't needed, but I wanted to be sure so I'd have everything I need when I start.

Hopefully this will fix what has been my #1 frustration with my new ride.
I got out on the lake today and my throttle drop issue is gone. I did, however, have an issue with now not reaching full rpms. That was not an issue before. I'm going to check my throttle stop sometime the next few days and make sure it's fully opening.

Anyone experienced this issue after making this fix?
 
It could be, but it would be whatever amount it was dropping. You can adjust the stops and the cable obviously.
If it was more than that, say over 1000 rpm difference, something is stuck or wrong in there.
 
It is less than <500 rpms. Thanks!
 
Does anyone know if the $150 throttle synch fixes this issue?
 
Throttle syncs do not eliminate but can reduce the effects from supporting each other.
 
Speedling, thanks for this awesome walk thru. I will be tackling this project this weekend as I to have a throttle drop problem. I do have a couple of questions:

1. In the second to last pic you instruct to l"oosen 10mm nuts and and move closer to center of unit." Can you elaborate.

2. I only have a port problem, should I do the starboard also?

3. Is electric tape still the way to go?


A million thanks!
 
1. I believe I meant to rotate it slightly in order to access things. Don't recall exactly as it was a good while ago.
2. Might as well! Or at least look for differences between the two. You will see the "slop" in the whole thing when it's apart.
3. LOL probably not, but it's still working for me! Use at your own risk. Some people have been able to bend the metal "fork" to be tighter which should work as well, but I was scared of breaking something.
 
so glad I ran into this thread- might save me a ton from buying new. My hand will be grateful for not having to hold up the throttle
 
so glad I ran into this thread- might save me a ton from buying new. My hand will be grateful for not having to hold up the throttle
Awesome!
I will say, try pinching the tabs together. Mine with just tape is starting to experience some slack again.
 
thank you - will post what the issue is and fix - assuming I don't break anything.
 
I completed this a couple of weeks ago. I crimped the fork to the point where I had to force the nib of the tension loop in. Works great ! Losened the throttle lever tension to where I don't have that jerky behavior when throttling down and still no throttle drop! Thanks @Speedling
 
I just did this today... Wow, what a difference! thanks @Speedling !! I can set the throttles where I want them and they don't budge, no longer have to keep my hand on the throttles when cruising. So excited about something that shouldn't be an issue, was my only gripe so far with my 2013/60 hr boat
 
Big thanks to @Speedling
Another happy customer here!
I did this fix this past weekend on my port throttle and the results are like night and day.
 
Special thanks to @Speedling for this write up. Excellent. I modified just a bit. I had my roof replaced and saved the original copper valley pans. I cut small 1/4 inch wide strips couple inches long. I used it to wedge into controls, worked like a charm and I didn’t have to take everything apart to do it. Just the single black cover to expose it. The copper was to thick to put between both sides of the “fork”. I chose to put on the side closest to outside control box. AFB387AE-2FDC-4671-94BA-6C91041D1C18.jpeg E29833AF-F648-43E2-A51B-C1E6DD4ACD86.jpeg 3518D129-8595-45D8-A77E-EE16BC9338B6.jpeg 1D46A2EF-B3D6-4C54-87A5-321789101552.jpeg However I did remove bucket cables to push oil through them.
See that here. https://jetboaters.net/threads/diy-steering-cable-luber.9755/page-2#post-288159
 
I didnt add anything all i did was recrimp the assembly and it worked perfect. No need for extra parts

Loved your cable luber!
 
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