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Hehe I would have if I didn't blow a dang main fuse to my system out there. Pushed my subs too hard and fuse was not big enough. It cut my day short. First time I've ever gone out without my tower speakers too. But the interiors held their own I suppose.
Lol Show off. Hahaha. You better than me right now. I just wish I could hit 7700 rpm. That would probably get me the speed I'm looking for. False advertising from Yamaha lol.
What's the best way to connect the 12v power for the lectrotab trim tabs? Are there openings on the factory fuse box to tie into or do I need to install a new fuse box?
What's the best way to connect the 12v power for the lectrotab trim tabs? Are there openings on the factory fuse box to tie into or do I need to install a new fuse box?
I believe running everything behind the helm is the best route. Since the power and ground are all into one big cable end of the actuator, you would not want to cut and split it up like that. You wouldn't have enough cable for the mother box cords to the displays if you do not install behind the helm. But don't quote me as they might longer cables.
I believe running everything behind the helm is the best route. Since the power and ground are all into one big cable end of the actuator, you would not want to cut and split it up like that. You wouldn't have enough cable for the mother box cords to the displays if you do not install behind the helm. But don't quote me as they might longer cables.
The installation instructions say to use 14ga wire for the input power. But what am I tapping into for that power? Are people connecting directly to the battery then running that 14ga wire to the helm where the actuator wires connect to the controller? Or is there a positive and negative wire behind the helm I can use? My boat is in storage so I can't look at it right now but I'm trying to think this through.
The factory wiring behind the helm is 16 awg and already has a load so new wire (positive and ground) from the batteries will need to be run. Given the length of run 10 awg would be a safe bet.
Many folks have already run 0 or 4 awg backbones from the batteries to helm for audio amp distribution and run distribution off of that for other stuff.
If it were me and I did not have high current distribution at the helm already with no future possibility of needing it the future then I would buy one 50’ roll of 10 awg tinned marine wire and a circuit breaker to mount at the batteries. Just tape and label the ends of the wire so that only the one color needs to be ordered but can be discerned for what they are and positive or negative.
The factory wiring behind the helm is 16 awg and already has a load so new wire (positive and ground) from the batteries will need to be run. Given the length of run 10 awg would be a safe bet.
Many folks have already run 0 or 4 awg backbones from the batteries to helm for audio amp distribution and run distribution off of that for other stuff.
If it were me and I did not have high current distribution at the helm already with no future possibility of needing it the future then I would buy one 50’ roll of 10 awg tinned marine wire and a circuit breaker to mount at the batteries. Just tape and label the ends of the wire so that only the one color needs to be ordered but can be discerned for what they are and positive or negative.
The installation instructions say to use 14ga wire for the input power. But what am I tapping into for that power? Are people connecting directly to the battery then running that 14ga wire to the helm where the actuator wires connect to the controller? Or is there a positive and negative wire behind the helm I can use? My boat is in storage so I can't look at it right now but I'm trying to think this through.
Sorry about that. I just ran new 14 awg to the back of the helm. I wanted to make sure that it ran off my start batteries. The distribution block route is usually coming off the house battery. Atleast in my case.
To be honest you don't need to do that. I find it better to have it's own wiring so you can plug and play. Especially if you have the auto controller. Now when I start the engines, the auto controller does everything for me. When I turn off the engines, no need to ever worry about the tabs as it auto retracts and auto shut off the controller too. One great reason I love the tabs.
My 0.02 -
Running some bigger wire for helm distribution (w/fuse or breaker close to the battery) is usually the best/most convenient way to power all the add-on electronics.
As far as trim tabs, just to be clear - there is no need for the full-auto controller for the Lectrotabs to auto-retract, those auto-retract even with the basic or the "semi-auto" controller.
I would recommend using the engine on or key on wire as the trigger for auto retract.
I may have already posted this in this thread but here is an example of helm distribution from my boat. This is more than most folks will do but asyou can see once you get some big wire to the helm amperage draw and how to connect things is much less of a limit.
Yes this should be a concern and with the larger tabs you should let people know they are back there. This is a member of this forums wife's foot after a run in with the trim tabs on the back of their boat. Not my wife and I have never showed her this pic as she would probably make me take mine off.