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Yamaha 212x Stereo

jacoviii

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Hoyt

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Looking at my '18 242x they only use 2 sets of the RCAs the 3rd sub out is not part of the harness. So adjusting the sub on the Hu will not do anything.
That sucks. Rewire that for sure
 

jacoviii

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Sorry for the bad info. The Hu does indeed use the sub out
 

31BVeteran

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Just spoke to a local wet sounds audio installer and told him I wanted to add 2 Rev 10’s to the tower. He recommended I remove the sound bar as it won’t provide any use with 2 Rev 10’s installed and it’s basically aesthetic at that point. I’m not audio inclined, but thoughts on that? Why does the 242x come with a sound bar and 2 tower speakers if that’s the case? Wasteful money?
 

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The sound bar is loud and clear sounding it will not put sound out as far as a set of Rev10's but for the little it will cost to power it I do not see a reason to ditch it. You could point it forward or point it down to fill the dead spot at the captions chairs.
 

JDRacing

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I can't speak to the Soundbar with Rev 10's, but I'm running Rev 8's with 300 W/Channel and the Soundbar with 100 W/Channel. I've listened to it extensively from the behind the boat with each one separately and both together, and the sound clearly has more punch and projection with both, with better defined highs (in particular). I'm a big fan of WetSounds and their customer service, but unless they've tried it both ways, I'm not sure I'd take their comment as the final word.

You're in a unique position to be able to try it both ways as well, if you're intending to add the Rev 10's and another amp regardless of whether you keep the Soundbar in place. Why not make your decision based on that?

IMG_20190719_152143.jpg
IMG_20190730_194053.jpg


Jeff
 

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I can't speak to the Soundbar with Rev 10's, but I'm running Rev 8's with 300 W/Channel and the Soundbar with 100 W/Channel. I've listened to it extensively from the behind the boat with each one separately and both together, and the sound clearly has more punch and projection with both, with better defined highs (in particular). I'm a big fan of WetSounds and their customer service, but unless they've tried it both ways, I'm not sure I'd take their comment as the final word.

You're in a unique position to be able to try it both ways as well, if you're intending to add the Rev 10's and another amp regardless of whether you keep the Soundbar in place. Why not make your decision based on that?

View attachment 114309
View attachment 114311


Jeff
What amp are you using to push the tower speakers? I want to add a pair so we can hear some music while wakeboarding.
 

JDRacing

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What amp are you using to push the tower speakers? I want to add a pair so we can hear some music while wakeboarding.
I'm using a Wet Sounds HTX-4, bridged to 2 channels (300W RMS per channel). I would seriously consider the Syn-DX4 (bridged) if you're going to run the Rev 10's. The Rev series are great speakers, IMO, but they suck power.

Here's a link to the Rev 8 portion of my build from last Summer. Couldn't be happier with the system for the money spent.

 

31BVeteran

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@JDRacing what did you use to mount the amp to the ballast board? I’d be terrified to drill holes anywhere on the boat. Can you show me the back of that board? Also, liked how matched the amp on the starboard storage.
 

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I'm using a Wet Sounds HTX-4, bridged to 2 channels (300W RMS per channel). I would seriously consider the Syn-DX4 (bridged) if you're going to run the Rev 10's. The Rev series are great speakers, IMO, but they suck power.

Here's a link to the Rev 8 portion of my build from last Summer. Couldn't be happier with the system for the money spent.

Looks like you have a really nice setup. I want to replace the 4 6.5’a with the revo’s, add a set of tower speakers, and one more sub to the stock stereo. I did not end up messing with it last year. Would you suggest the rev 8 or rev 10?
Also is there a way to tell if my speakers are parallel or series without tracing all of the wires?
Is there a reason you ran each speaker to its own channel vs two speakers per channel to run at 2 ohms?
 

31BVeteran

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Looks like you have a really nice setup. I want to replace the 4 6.5’a with the revo’s, add a set of tower speakers, and one more sub to the stock stereo. I did not end up messing with it last year. Would you suggest the rev 8 or rev 10?
Also is there a way to tell if my speakers are parallel or series without tracing all of the wires?
Is there a reason you ran each speaker to its own channel vs two speakers per channel to run at 2 ohms?
The 2019 212x are wired in series
 

Buckeye Boater 79

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The 2019 212x are wired in series
Is there a reason for this since the amp says it can run at 2 ohms? Couldn’t I wore the 4 cabin speakers in parallel to the 1 and 2 channels, the rear speakers and sound bar in parallel to channels 3 and 4, then run the sub bridged on one of the remaining channels?
 

31BVeteran

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Is there a reason for this since the amp says it can run at 2 ohms? Couldn’t I wore the 4 cabin speakers in parallel to the 1 and 2 channels, the rear speakers and sound bar in parallel to channels 3 and 4, then run the sub bridged on one of the remaining channels?
im going off what another 2019 212x owner informed me of a couple days ago when he rewired his system and added a second amp.
 

JDRacing

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@JDRacing what did you use to mount the amp to the ballast board? I’d be terrified to drill holes anywhere on the boat. Can you show me the back of that board? Also, liked how matched the amp on the starboard storage.
Just used the mounting screws which came with the amp. Pulled the ballast board off so I could work on it on the table. Didn't drill it at all. Unfortunately, removing the ballast board now involves emptying the compartment, disconnecting the amp, and moving the wiring out of the way. The back of it looks like the front, in the pictures.

Really, it's pretty straightforward to mount it that way once you have removed the board.
 
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31BVeteran

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Just used the mounting screws which came with the amp. Pulled the ballast board off so I could work on it on the table. Didn't drill it at all. Unfortunately, removing the ballast board now involves emptying the compartment, disconnection the amp, moving the wiring out of the way. The back of it looks like the front, in the pictures.

Really, it's pretty straightforward to mount it that way once you have removed the board.
Do you think it would be possible to mount it back there with heavy duty Velcro?
 

JDRacing

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Is there a reason for this since the amp says it can run at 2 ohms? Couldn’t I wore the 4 cabin speakers in parallel to the 1 and 2 channels, the rear speakers and sound bar in parallel to channels 3 and 4, then run the sub bridged on one of the remaining channels?
There appears to be no rhyme or reason to Yamaha's audio wiring, nor limitation on their ability to screw it up. Please take a look at the following thread, particularly post 6. It will give you an idea of how hard Yamaha biffed the factory wiring on my 212X in 2018. I spent a LOT of time trying to straighten it out just to make it sound like it should from the factory.


I know at least one late year 2018 242X owner whose speakers were wired in parallel, an indication that Yamaha was starting to get its act together on how to hook this stuff up.

As far as figuring out how your setup is wired, I think that's a good place to start this project. You can tell if you're in parallel or series by pulling one of the wires off the back of one of the bow speakers when you remove it. If another speaker stops playing (like the same side cockpit speaker), the bow speaker is wired in series with it. If not, either the bow speaker has its own dedicated channel or is wired in parallel with another speaker. Think of old school Christmas tree lights where, if one light is unscrewed or burns out, the entire string no longer lights. That's series wiring. If you can remove one light and the rest stay light, they are wired in parallel. Same thing with these speakers.

As far as how I wired my setup, I was adding an extra amp anyway (I've now added two extra amps), and I had enough channels to give each speaker its own. If I ever decide to add more speaker, I can easily double up two sets to free up some channels. But bear in mind, wiring them in parallel provides 150 W/channel to two speakers, whereas wiring them on their own channel provides 100 W/channel available per speaker.

Also, bear in mind that your amp is an HTX-6 DSP--which does not use the traditional RCA inputs or single wire output lugs. It also does not have user-accessible tuning controls. Instead, it uses proprietary connectors and all adjustments are made via firmware. So, it's not as simple as moving wires around. You will see when you take a closer look at your amp. If you are OK with how your system sounds now and want to simply add more speakers and another amp, you might try to do that independent of messing with the OEM amp. I ended up swapping mine out for the non-DSP version of the amp, but that was due, in part, to the fact that the Yamaha had completely failed in their attempt to wire my system together at the factory. I pretty much needed to start from scratch. Here's another thread, which, in addition to discussing adding mid cabin speakers, goes into some detail about what I was dealing with with Yamaha's OEM wiring (that part is further down in the thread).


We picked the Rev 8's rather than the Rev 10's based on balancing sound and space considerations. We tried to figure out what would best fit in the space, without worrying about hitting our heads on it or otherwise being in our way. Combined with the soundbar, the Rev 8's seemed to be the best way to go for our application. But I could easily see choosing the Rev 10's instead.

Jeff
 
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Buckeye Boater 79

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There appears to be no rhyme or reason to Yamaha's audio wiring, nor limitation on their ability to screw it up. Please take a look at the following thread, particularly post 6. It will give you an idea of how hard Yamaha biffed the factory wiring on my 212X in 2018. I spent a LOT of time trying to straighten it out just to make it sound like it should from the factory.


I know at least one late year 2018 242X owner whose speakers were wired in parallel, and indication that Yamaha was starting to get its act together on how to hook this stuff up.

As far as figuring out how your setup is wired, I think that's a good place to start this project. You can tell if you're in parallel or series by pulling one of the wires off the back of one of the bow speakers when you remove it. If another speaker stops playing (like the same side cockpit speaker), the bow speaker is wired in series with it. If not, either the bow speaker has its own dedicated channel or is wired in parallel with another channel. Think of old school Christmas tree lights where, if one light is unscrewed or burns out, the entire string no longer lights. That's series wiring. If you can remove one light and the rest stay light, they are wired in parallel. Same thing with these speakers.

As far as how I wired my setup, I was adding an extra amp anyway (I've now added two extra amps), and I had enough channels to give each speaker its own. If I ever decide to add more speaker, I can easily double up two sets to free up some channels. But bear in mind, wiring them in parallel provides 150 W/channel to two speakers, whereas wiring them on their own channel provides 100 W/channel available per speaker.

Also, bear in mind that your amp is an HTX-6 DSP--which does not use the traditional RCA inputs or single wire output lugs. It also does not have user-accessible tuning controls. Instead, it uses proprietary connectors and all adjustments are made via firmware. So, it's not as simple as moving wires around. You will see when you take a closer look at your amp. If you are OK with how your system sounds now and want to simply add more speakers and another amp, you might try to do that independent of messing with the OEM amp. I ended up swapping mine out for the non-DSP version of the amp, but that was due, in part, to the fact that the Yamaha had completely failed in their attempt to wire my system together at the factory. I pretty much needed to start from scratch. Here's another thread, which, in addition to discussing adding mid cabin speakers, goes into some detail about what I was dealing with with Yamaha's OEM wiring (that part is further down in the thread).


We picked the Rev 8's rather than the Rev 10's based on balancing sound and space considerations. We tried to figure out what would best fit in the space, without worrying about hitting our heads on it or otherwise being in our way. Combined with the soundbar, the Rev 8's seemed to be the best way to go for our application. But I could easily see choosing the Rev 10's instead.

Jeff
Thanks for all of the info. I did not know you could test series wiring like that, but it does make sense.
I was thinking about replacing the amp all together as well. I just hate to basically throw a 600 dollar amp I’m the trash. I have a new 5 channel 1000 JL marine amp I may use, but I will need to figure out a second JL amp to use for the tower speakers. Or I may just buy two new wetsounds amps sell my JL amp.
 

JDRacing

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Thanks for all of the info. I did not know you could test series wiring like that, but it does make sense.
I was thinking about replacing the amp all together as well. I just hate to basically throw a 600 dollar amp I’m the trash. I have a new 5 channel 1000 JL marine amp I may use, but I will need to figure out a second JL amp to use for the tower speakers. Or I may just buy two new wetsounds amps sell my JL amp.
You have a private message.
 

31BVeteran

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Thanks for all of the info. I did not know you could test series wiring like that, but it does make sense.
I was thinking about replacing the amp all together as well. I just hate to basically throw a 600 dollar amp I’m the trash. I have a new 5 channel 1000 JL marine amp I may use, but I will need to figure out a second JL amp to use for the tower speakers. Or I may just buy two new wetsounds amps sell my JL amp.
Sell the stock amp, which is what I’m going to do and add 2 new amps to the boat.
 
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