• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter
  • Announcing the 2024 Jetboat Pilot 10th Annual Marine Mat Group Buy for JetBoaters.net members only! This is your best time to buy Marine Mat from JetboatPilot - you won't get a better price - 30% Off! Use Coupon Code JETBOATERS.NET at checkout.

    So if you are tired of stepping on really hot snaps/carpet, or tired of that musty carpet smell - Marine Mat is the best alternative out there! Get in on this now, or pay more later!

    You only have until September 30th to get in on this.....So Hurry!

    You can dismiss this notice by clicking on the "X" in the upper right corner>>>>>>>>

No spark to either engine

Thanks Dennis
The boat is at the shop but I'll forward the intel to the mechanic. This has to be the answer. My "fix" for joining the two brown wires together must only have bypassed the starter switch and not the ignition switch and now that they are not touching at all, the ignition is not engaging.

HOPEFULLY.....

I'll post whatever the mechanic finds once it is solved. You would not happen to know how to bypass BOTH parts of the hatch switch would you?
I could run down and try and fix it while it is waiting the two weeks at the mechanics shop.
 
With the hatch open the Hatch Interlock Switch provides continuity between Terminals b (3 Black) & c (4 White) which kills the spark and no continuity between e (1 Brown) & f (2 Brown) which inhibits the starter.
To start and run the motor with the hatch open disconnect all the wires from the switch. Connect the 2 Brown wires together and make sure the Black and White are not touching anything. This configuration will allow the starter to crank and the plugs to fire.
Good luck.
 

Attachments

So, in the video I watched, the young man left the Black and White wires connected to the plug for some reason and only wired the two brown wires together.
I'm understanding this is INCORRECT? In addition to connecting the two brown wires, I need to disconnect the Black and white wires, cover them so they touch nothing, not each other and nothing, and then spark AND starter will work?
WOW
OK, thanks for the tip.
Guess I'll make another road trip tomorrow and see if I can work on the boat in the mechanic's "waiting" yard. Afterall, its only a three hour drive each way.....

I'll keep everyone posted.
 
Well if it was on YouTube I must be wrong.
?
?
My understanding of the Hatch Interlock Switch Check and connector diagrams is that:
Connecting the Brown wires will allow the starter to turn.
Separating the Black and White wires will allow the plugs to spark.
 
Thanks again

I'll redo the fix or should I say I'll do the 2nd part of the fix on Wednesday when are driving by the mechanic and post to the world the results on Thursday.

A GREAT group of guys - thanks all of you.
 
Thanks Dennis
The boat is at the shop but I'll forward the intel to the mechanic. This has to be the answer. My "fix" for joining the two brown wires together must only have bypassed the starter switch and not the ignition switch and now that they are not touching at all, the ignition is not engaging.

HOPEFULLY.....

I'll post whatever the mechanic finds once it is solved. You would not happen to know how to bypass BOTH parts of the hatch switch would you?
I could run down and try and fix it while it is waiting the two weeks at the mechanics shop.
Sorry, but I never had to do that. But it sounds like @TeenGee has provided a possible solution for that.
Hope you figure it out soon.
 
Well - boat is fixed and I should have listened to you all.

The suggestion for bypassing the back deck safeties was correct. Join the two brown wires to bypass the starter safety and then make sure White and Black wires are isolated to bypass the spark part of the equation.

Mechanic did it and boat runs like a champ.

Thanks again for the help.
 
I am experiencing something very similar. Did you notice if you had the key beep when you turned the key?
 
I did not notice a the "key beep".

I know how to test the engine relay and replace the relay and I now know there are two parts to the back deck safety switch but nothing about a key beep.
Sorry
 
So
Well - boat is fixed and I should have listened to you all.

The suggestion for bypassing the back deck safeties was correct. Join the two brown wires to bypass the starter safety and then make sure White and Black wires are isolated to bypass the spark part of the equation.

Mechanic did it and boat runs like a champ.

Thanks again for the help.

So were both safety switches bad or out of adjustment?
 
As it turns out NEITHER were bad - but I bypassed them thinking they were and then I bypassed them incorrectly
 
As it turns out NEITHER were bad - but I bypassed them thinking they were and then I bypassed them incorrectly

Okay, then they must have gotten out of adjustment or did you decide to by pas them in the first place and that is what caused your problem?
 
Maybe you all could comment on my new thread: Crank, no start

Would appreciate the help.
KC
 
Back
Top