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Water in Oil

Scottintexas

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I'm not a mechanic but I would guess since your oil level did not increase your just seeing a mixture of old oil,
I think I might do a full drain before decided I needed to pull the manifold.

No idea how the water got in to begin with??
When was the previous time you had check the oil before the dealer found it?
Had you ever ran the boat on just one engine?
 

Boyd95

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Checked it maybe a couple weeks before I brought it there and it was fine. Never ran on one motor either. Always flushed properly. It's the strangest thing. For all i know the dealer caused this. I just got off the phone with them and told them not to touch anything else and I'm picking it up. I still haven't found another place yet though but I'm calling around
 

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Maybe they flushed it wrong or left hose on it. Change oil again and go run it see if it gets water in it. I hope you are on fresh water. Also has it run since this happened? If you get water I would suspect exhaust manifold or
head gasket.
 

Boyd95

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It's brackish water so it has some salt in it. I found a jet ski shop close by I'm just waiting for a callback. If they seem decent I will take it to them for a complete drain
 

Boyd95

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And they said they did take it on a sea trial after they "fixed" it and said it ran fine
 

zipper

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@Boyd95 FWIW...Anybody especially a dealer/shop, when water is present in the oil should do a complete drain. It's not that hard or time consuming to locate and pull the oil cooler plug to remove the remaining oil after extracting the first "half" via suction. Seems like a no brainer to me. Diluting bad oil with good is a waste of time and money. I do not like halfa$$ed approaches, especially by a dealer. There are well documented threads on this forum, explaining how to do it.https://jetboaters.net/threads/oil-change-on-mr-1-how-to-perform-a-complete-drain.3805/ I did not use a shop vac, bought an extractor and did not spill any in the bilge. I would not do it any other way. I hope this goes well for you.
 

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I guess they are lazy. The dealer told me there is no way to get all the water out. I was going to take it some place else tomrrow but now they are talking about us getting snow. As long as it doesn't stick to roads I will take it
 

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When you run an engine with any water in the oil it will leave a white film on the inside of the oil cap sometimes on the top of the dip stick also, if you want to remove all the water it is really easy add 1/2 quart of Dexreon 2 transmission fluid to your oil and run the engine on the hose for about 15 minutes then let the oil cool and change it, Dextron 2 is a catalyst that will mix the water with the oil and the Dextron 2 will not harm anything but it is a good detergent and it can clean any sludge in the engine while it is getting the water , however if there is an issue with say a crack in a head or a bad gasket etc you will continue to get water in your oil until the issue is found. So once you are sure the water is removed I would check carefully each time you use the boat after that and if more water is found in the oil you have a problem in that engine.
 

Boyd95

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When you run an engine with any water in the oil it will leave a white film on the inside of the oil cap sometimes on the top of the dip stick also, if you want to remove all the water it is really easy add 1/2 quart of Dexreon 2 transmission fluid to your oil and run the engine on the hose for about 15 minutes then let the oil cool and change it, Dextron 2 is a catalyst that will mix the water with the oil and the Dextron 2 will not harm anything but it is a good detergent and it can clean any sludge in the engine while it is getting the water , however if there is an issue with say a crack in a head or a bad gasket etc you will continue to get water in your oil until the issue is found. So once you are sure the water is removed I would check carefully each time you use the boat after that and if more water is found in the oil you have a problem in that engine.
Thank you!
 

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Always glad to help you are welcome!
 

Boyd95

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Does anyone know if this is the correct washer for the plug on back of motor? Im going to try myself this Thursday if I have enough time to do a complete oil change, if i can't get to it thursday I will have plenty of time on this coming Tuesday to do it. Im pretty nervous doing it myself ive never changed oil myself but I've read a lot of other posts on it so I have a pretty good idea on what to expect.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Hardware-DPWM8-15-10-Drain-Washer/dp/B00K3B5AEC
 

zipper

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Boyd95

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Awesome thanks. It's only $3. Do those have to be replaced every time you drain it that way?
 

zipper

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I treated it like any oil drain washer, like on my truck, cleaned it up and reused it. No leaks. No I have not replaced either of mine yet.
 

Boyd95

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Sounds good, reason I was asking was because In that write up of the complete oil drain he was replacing them. But I'll give it a shot without replacing. And also should I be changing the oil filter each time I drain then re add? Because I will only be running for about 10 minutes each time then draining. And does anyone have any oil recommendations and filters?
 

zipper

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Every case is different. Access the condition after removal. You may want to have new ones on hand if you are removing and replacing a few times. I, knock on wood:banghead:, have not experienced what you are going thru. While you are eliminating the water, use a good oil with detergent additives, or add dextron II a.t.f. as said above. Once cleaned up put your final running oil in. With the filter, I would not replace between each change, but I would take it off and let it drain between changes. Once you have determined your engine is water free, I would put a new one on with your final oil change. I use Mobil 1 as my running oil/filter, but any good conventional oil will do the cleaning job for less $$. Good luck. Others have had to do this, maybe they will chime in.
 
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Cody Jacobs

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Hello everyone. I’m new here but I’ve read through all your post and I’m looking for opinions. I’ve owned my 2006 AR 230 for 2 seasons now and live in NE Oklahoma. I bought my boat from my uncle in Houston. They ran it on local lakes and down in Galveston (salt water). Took it in before winter to get in winterized and had water in oil. They flushed and flushed multiple times...still had water. They decided to replace a gasket. A couple months later I called to check in... still bad news. They discovered I’ve got a crack in the motor. They are now attempting to weld the crack. . The dealer/mechanic is about 1hr 15mins away from where I live so it’s a pain to drive over to look. Here is the response I received today when I asked for a picture and status

“This is the only one I got before he started welding. He welded it and put it back in and was leaking further than what it looked like. So he pulled the engine back out and tried welding it further. Waiting on results if it is going to be able to be repaired.“

See picture attached. I’m at about $2300 so far in cost on the Winterization and everything they’ve done to this point to diagnose/repair. Any thoughts/sugesstions are appreciated.
 

Attachments

Jgorm

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I'm not understanding on how a crack in the outside of the block can cause oil water contamination. That looks like the coolant passages. Did they drain the oil or of the bottom of the engine?
20170311_180602.jpg
 

Scottintexas

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Glad to have you on board @Cody Jacobs sorry we had to meet like this,

is this a Yamaha watercraft mechanic (PWC or Boat) a general marine mechanic or a car shop?

At $2200 I think I would cut bait and take it to a PWC shop to put a new engine in. It's going to cost you another $2k probably but at least you'll have a running boat, right now your at $2k with no end in sight (and I don't have a lot of confidence in what they're doing for you).
 
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