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Enforcing Trailer Guide Posts - What’s The Best Way?

biffdotorg

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Very cool Swatski, I hope they work out for you. Our new boat had cheap guides already installed. The VeeVee's are definitely the strongest of the bunch. Our boat is on the lift more than trailer, so I won't invest again. But if anyone is looking, check out the VeeVee 60" with pads and covers.

I took it one step further years ago and painted all the anodized metal to match the trailer. I loved the anodized look, but blacked out looked nicer.

 

swatski

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Very cool Swatski, I hope they work out for you. Our new boat had cheap guides already installed. The VeeVee's are definitely the strongest of the bunch. Our boat is on the lift more than trailer, so I won't invest again. But if anyone is looking, check out the VeeVee 60" with pads and covers.

I took it one step further years ago and painted all the anodized metal to match the trailer. I loved the anodized look, but blacked out looked nicer.

Thanks, man - much appreciated. In your opinion - is mounting those heavy guide poles under the frame (rather than above as I did per manufacturer’s instructions) a better way to go? I need to consider that.

 

biffdotorg

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Thanks, man - much appreciated. In your opinion - is mounting those heavy guide poles under the frame (rather than above as I did per manufacturer’s instructions) a better way to go? I need to consider that.

Honestly, it really doesn't matter. When I mounted mine on that boat, 60" seemed like a really long post, so I went under to shorten it up. As long as you are staying above your rub rail on the deepest landings, you can go above or below the beam.

Folks sometimes badmouth the longer post, or say a person is putting their trailer in too far to need that long post. But honestly, every landing is different. Unlike a reservoir that is managed by the Corps of Engineers with landings built at a specific angle to federal spec, I come from the land of 10,000 landings and sandbars. Each and every landing is different in angle, and bottom quality as well as current and wind condition. We like being prepared for anything.

Good luck!
 

Mainah

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I would drilling through the plates that sandwich the trailer frame and running in stainless screws to keep those from moving. Then I would drill through the top plate and the guide to add another stainless screw. Tapping everything out for threads would be preferable over sheet metal screws. On the guides if you cut to length you should be able to through bolt.
 

swatski

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I would drilling through the plates that sandwich the trailer frame and running in stainless screws to keep those from moving. Then I would drill through the top plate and the guide to add another stainless screw. Tapping everything out for threads would be preferable over sheet metal screws. On the guides if you cut to length you should be able to through bolt.
Or - would it be a mistake to spot weld 2-3 beads, once I have it properly mounted?

@biffdotorg i hear you and completely agree. I do not always have access to the best ramps, and I like the trailer’s greatly increased highway visibility when towing at night - afforded by those longer guide poles with LEDs.

 

biffdotorg

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If you have a welder and the skill set, I suppose there is nothing wrong with it. Once I had the bolt threads against the trailer beam, mine didn't move more than a millimeter or two. And the only reason I knew they moved, was the 2mm scratches from the threads.

Any reason you have to cut your existing bolts?
 

swatski

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If you have a welder and the skill set, I suppose there is nothing wrong with it. Once I had the bolt threads against the trailer beam, mine didn't move more than a millimeter or two. And the only reason I knew they moved, was the 2mm scratches from the threads.

Any reason you have to cut your existing bolts?
I had to replace the bolts that originally came with the kit - don’t remember the size but were too short for Shorlandr trailer frame.

I used something like 8” long bolts that were hanging way down, so one day after putting another hole in the top of my foot while tending to the boat I just grabbed a grinder and trimmed those up.
I know... (no comments please, lolol)

 

Mainah

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Or - would it be a mistake to spot weld 2-3 beads, once I have it properly mounted?

@biffdotorg i hear you and completely agree. I do not always have access to the best ramps, and I like the trailer’s greatly increased highway visibility when towing at night - afforded by those longer guide poles with LEDs.

If going through the trouble of welding I would just add a couple pieces of angle to form a channel and through bolt the guide post.
 

swatski

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If going through the trouble of welding I would just add a couple pieces of angle to form a channel and through bolt the guide post.
Oh, I like that idea!

 

Dixie Highway

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Welding properly will make it much sturdier, plus some angle bracing.
 

swatski

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Welding properly will make it much sturdier, plus some angle bracing.
I leaning towards that, I dont weld but know shops here that do it very well.

--
 

swatski

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I ended up following @biffdotorg advice (and manufacturer's instructions) and re-bolted the brackets using the holes fitting very close to the frame.
I also used 5200 to bed all touching surfaces, and used Locktite on the bolts. It's super tight, the inside bolts bent as I tightened those hard. I don't know how this could move, seems I could pull the trailer with those now.
I may still add a pair of bolts on the inside (I'm sure it's an overkill).

94095

94096

94097

EDIT: Looked at it this morning, looks good. I'm happy.

Thanks to all for great advice, much appreciated!

--
 
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Shady28

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Honestly, it really doesn't matter. When I mounted mine on that boat, 60" seemed like a really long post, so I went under to shorten it up. As long as you are staying above your rub rail on the deepest landings, you can go above or below the beam.

Folks sometimes badmouth the longer post, or say a person is putting their trailer in too far to need that long post. But honestly, every landing is different. Unlike a reservoir that is managed by the Corps of Engineers with landings built at a specific angle to federal spec, I come from the land of 10,000 landings and sandbars. Each and every landing is different in angle, and bottom quality as well as current and wind condition. We like being prepared for anything.

Good luck!
Great thread. Just pulled our boat out for the first time since putting it in, in May and I now understand why my fishing boat trailer came with posts.

Yea, it helps you sight in the trailer, but it also keeps your boat from floating off the trailer as jump into your truck and start pulling it out......boat got a bit sideways and onto the wheel well as we pulled out. Luckily I saw it right away and back down into the water and got it all square again.

Land of 10,000 landing in MN is no joke, tough to know the right depth, especially on your first time putting in/out. Guides for next year and based on this thread you've done all the R&D on install. Thanks.
 

drewkaree

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I don't know how I missed this thread the first time around. Cut up a piece of inner tube and put it in between the frame and the plate before tightening your bolts down. Another alternative is to spray the area with Plasti Dip - any excess should be able to be pulled right off, and the edges of the plates should trim it nicely.

I've got to say, I have the Veve guides, and my opinion is that they used crap materials. The plates were easily bendable, and the reason I have grade 8 bolts on one side is that I snapped off a bolt at the nut. I actually had to throw those plates in a vise and beat 'Em back to a usable condition.

I'm sure the reasoning for that is going to be that you want the guides to come apart before your trailer, but the trailer seems sturdy enough that it can take a little more abuse than that.

I was gonna see if I could get someone to make me up some thicker plates, but my recommendation for someone is to see if the Smith guides are better constructed, and if not, make your own. It's what I'm essentially going to be doing, when all is said and done.

106150

106151
 

biffdotorg

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That's true, I bent mine as well. And your theory may be correct on purpose built weak point.

I have the CE's on my current trailer as the previous owner installed them. I would love to say that the mounts are stronger, but I think they are near identical.

I give all credit to this forum and the knowledge of the masses. I think we have all learned what we like and don't like about each solution. And as much as I may badmouth or give credit to one or the other, they all serve the purpose just fine.
 
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swatski

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Well, in our case re-doing everything and embedding in 5200 seem to have done the trick, we have trailered the boat for over 4,000 miles since the install, closer to 4,500 - with zero issues (knock on wood), the guides have not moved a millimeter. So, I would say - thank you guys, it worked out great for me.

--
 

Ronnie

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Well I’m very late to respond to this but I wonder if you could just relocate where the guides mount to the trailer so that they mount over the point where the side rail connects to the rear cross bar/member?

I may have mine mounted this way but I can’t recall now and I’m not at home to check. Luckily I have not had my guides slide around, yet anyway.
 

drewkaree

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swatski

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Well I’m very late to respond to this but I wonder if you could just relocate where the guides mount to the trailer so that they mount over the point where the side rail connects to the rear cross bar/member?

I may have mine mounted this way but I can’t recall now and I’m not at home to check. Luckily I have not had my guides slide around, yet anyway.
Good point, I might have considered that if not for my boat buckles are in the way. Don't have a good picture shot showing the trailer after the guides were re-done but here is one - this is with 4,000+ miles on the trailer, no movement so far!
106175

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