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ODYSSEY Extreme marine batteries excel at providing high vibration resistance, with the high cranking amps and reserve capacity that watercraft demand. Pure lead AGM technology delivers exceptional CCA ratings and reserve capacity cycling ability Quick starting every time Cycles over 900...
Like an athlete that is both a sprinter and a long distance runner, the ODYSSEY Marine Dual Purpose battery has both massive starting power and amazing deep cycling capability - up to 400 cycles at 80% depth of discharge. With twice the overall power and three times the life of conventional...
Do what you want, but those batteries are not deep cycle batteries, they are dual purpose. the Reserve Capacity is not the same as the amp hour rating. A dual purpose battery with 195 reserve capacity has a 81.25 ah rating meaning it can run for 20 hours at 4 amps per hour. A dual purpose battery with a reserve capacity of 220 has a 92ah rating meaning it can run for 20 hours at 4.5 amps per hour. The more amps you run per hour the faster it will drain. For example if you run 25 amps per hour, it may only last 2 hours. If you go with a true deep cycle battery, that has an over 100 ah rating, It will probably last at least an additional hour if you are floating.
Do what you want, but those batteries are not deep cycle batteries, they are dual purpose. the Reserve Capacity is not the same as the amp hour rating. A dual purpose battery with 195 reserve capacity has a 81.25 ah rating meaning it can run for 20 hours at 4 amps per hour. A dual purpose battery with a reserve capacity of 220 has a 92ah rating meaning it can run for 20 hours at 4.5 amps per hour. The more amps you run per hour the faster it will drain. For example if you run 25 amps per hour, it may only last 2 hours. If you go with a true deep cycle battery, that has an over 100 ah rating, It will probably last at least an additional hour if you are floating.
well that better explains it. I want the most time on float. Ill see if i can get to that Sams club before the week is out. Deep cycle on the start will be fine right? Due to what its actually starting, smaller jet engines rather then crazy outboards or diesels.
sorry, the gp is just short for group. You can do the 27m or the 31m. I have 27’s in my boat and have zero issues with dropping voltage. If 27’s are avail and 31 is out then i would not hesitate to get 27’s.
So i spent the day out on the 255xd today. I have a Noco Genius 5x2 wired into boat. Had it plugged in all night before we went out today the batteries were topped off. They are Seahawk 24M7 which are starting batteries. Who supplies the batteries for a new boat? Yamaha or the dealer? Why do i have 2 starting batteries? Shouldnt the house be a dual purpose or a deep cycle? Removed the positive from the start battery to ensure the DVSR didnt combine the banks on my overnight charge.
Got out to our spot and went into float mode. Both batteries were at 12.8 on the Connext. 2hrs later the start is at 12.6-12.5 and the house is at 12.3...by the 4hr mark im at 12.4 on the start and 12.0/11.9 on the house. Why is the start dropping too if its not being used or drawn from....and is this house only lasting 4hrs because its a start type battery?
What batteries should i pick up or what should i check to see if theres issues. I dont get why they made the Connext screen have to be on 24/7 in float mode...def aint helping on conserving power.
Out of curiosity, is this voltage drop abnormal? I'd expect to lose a few tenths of a Volt per hour running 4 to 6+ speakers on a battery. That's why its nice to have a House and a separately wired Start battery.
On my 212, I've only floated for maybe 2 hours at a time so far this summer and my Start voltage usually drops from 12.8 -> 12.6 as you mentioned, and House 12.8 -> 12.4ish (2 hour float). If I had to put money down, I'd bet the House alone @ 11.9 would still easily crank your engines (not wired like that but lets say you needed emergency parallel).
Out of curiosity, is this voltage drop abnormal? I'd expect to lose a few tenths of a Volt per hour running 4 to 6+ speakers on a battery. That's why its nice to have a House and a separately wired Start battery.
On my 212, I've only floated for maybe 2 hours at a time so far this summer and my Start voltage usually drops from 12.8 -> 12.6 as you mentioned, and House 12.8 -> 12.4ish (2 hour float). If I had to put money down, I'd bet the House alone @ 11.9 would still easily crank your engines (not wired like that but lets say you needed emergency parallel).
No doubt i think it would start, but i dont wanna do any damage to the batteries or shorten the life expectancy. It actually prob just the fact they are starting types, and small. They are only 24 series. We generally spend 8hrs a day out on the water, get to the spot by 1030 11ish, float, eat, clam, then board some....back at the launch 5 6 oclock.
Call your dealer and make them put a legit house battery in. Even the generic house battery that our dealer put in last year when we purchased only gets down to 40% or so after 8 hours at the sandbar while running my JL 8.8s for music @ about 30%
A few hundred bucks is cheap peace of mind, IMO. I'd probably be chasing the same thing if I had all the pumps of the X series boats and the larger screen. I agree with anmut above, for what you paid the dealer should be buying you at least a house battery that is appropriate.
I honestly haven't even looked at my batteries since purchase. They work fine for now. I'll probably start shopping if the voltage drop gets any more dramatic than what I've observed so far.
