10 Hour Service Help

[Daren and Heather]

Thanks for the tips!!

 

[Daren and Heather]

If anyone else is looking for that oil extractor pump, I found that I can buy it direct from the company for even cheaper than Amazon (and hopefully get it faster too). Here's the link: Motor Fuel Extractor Pump with Handle - DC 12V - 5A - ALEKO

 

[stevenk2]

I just did the 10 hour maintenance on my AR195, it was pretty easy, I think you could handle it yourself and save some $$$. The up front cost of the oil extractor and grease gun will pay for itself in the savings. Also, it was pretty easy to tell when my intermediate bearing was full on mine, so that wasn't an issue - not sure how easy it is to tell on the AR210's tho.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Daren and Heather I went up to the hardware store and pickup up 8 feet of hose for the end that goes into the engine. I made sure it was clear and compatible with oil and fuel. I also grabbed a couple of clips, like chip clips but not as strong. That way I could set the pump on a rag on the floor of the cockpit and run the hose down to the engine and I clipped it to the engine in two places that way if i was moving around it would not fling out. Also the clear tube made it easy to see where the oil was and I made sure I sucked it all through the hose before removal.

 

[Daren and Heather]

Updating this thread for anyone else looking at it later. I did the 10hr service myself, using this Aleko pump and made a YouTube video for others who want to learn how to do the oil change. I'll do a 2nd video for the other parts of the 10hr service later.

 

[Daren and Heather]

Here is the 2nd part video I captured while doing the rest of the 10 hour service, including spark plugs and other things the manual says to inspect.

 

[Chaunceybland]

Just called the closest dealer to me which is about 2 hours. Price for 10/20 service is $626. He said less if the plugs are not changed (i figure maybe a $150 less?) I will ask when I call back. I have a 19' 242LSE, bought it in July. Has about 13 hours on it. Any harm in waiting until the start of the next season to perform the service with or without plug replacement? I'm done for the season and the boat will just be sitting. Didn't know if I should go ahead and do it now or just wait until I'm ready to start next season. Thoughts? After the initial service, I plan to do plugs and oil myself.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Chaunceybland That price is absurd. I would highly recommend doing it yourself. It is easy and effortless and you will do a great job.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Greasing the bearing can go either way. Two dealers here say they don't do it till 100 hr service. Yamaha has went back and forth on it a couple of times. The serviceman I asked says he sees blown rubber seals a lot on newer boats because people over grease them. He recommended to leave it alone for now. They wouldn't have done it at 10 hr service. That is one of the reasons I decided to do my own 10 hr. and save some money.

TBH I am approaching 30 hours and will probably be at 100 hr service in the next 6 weeks. I mean honestly how may times can the kids get pulled around the lake??? 4-5 hours each time we go out till they can hold the rope anymore.

Again you need to read up on it and decide for yourself or let the dealer service decide for you.

@HangOutdoors .....YES!!!!! You should grease the bearing at 10 hours. Then at 100. There is a lengthy thread on here about this and the reasons for it. Follow the advice on the thread.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

So.... I just emailed my dealer about the cost of the 10hr service change, and here's what he emailed back to me... Any truth to this??

"I recently found out that for 2020 they changed that from the 2019 model and just the standard 50 hour oil change , no after break in oil change required anymore"

I find this surprising if true. I'll email him back and ask what his source is.

@Daren and Heather .....your dealer needs to go back to technical school. Your oil and filter should be changed ar 10 hours, your bearing should be greased and there are a list of checks that need to be done. BTW don't do this and see how well yamaha responds (not) to a warranty problem later. I also changed the plugs at 10 hours. The manual is very specific. If you want to do it yourself, fine, use genuine yamaha parts and save your bills as documents that you had it done!

 

[Dixemon]

I get my oil change kits on amazon. You can get them with or without spark plugs. I'm assuming you have some variant of 1.8l engine. Here's an example off of amazon.
Amazon.com: YAMAHA 1.8L HO SHO Oil Change Kit w/Filter FX-HO VXR VXS FZ-SHO FZR FZS 69J-13440-03-00 NGK Spark Plugs Maintenance Kit: Automotive

For those of you that wish to get ripped off by the dealer by paying 500+ for an oil change and look see, i cannot comprehend unless you have money trees in your back yard. For those that are merely intimidated by this level of maintenance I would say, suck it up, watch some videos and save an ass load of money doing it yourself. YMMV

 

[tdonoughue]

Just called the closest dealer to me which is about 2 hours. Price for 10/20 service is $626. ... Any harm in waiting until the start of the next season to perform the service with or without plug replacement? I'm done for the season and the boat will just be sitting. Didn't know if I should go ahead and do it now or just wait until I'm ready to start next season. Thoughts? After the initial service, I plan to do plugs and oil myself.

@HangOutdoors is right: that is an absurd amount. Unfortunately, it is also very typical.

I had the same plan as you on my first service. Schelped the boat in (didn't ask how much it would be) and picked it up with a $500 bill. Later found out (here) that all they did was plugs and oil and maybe the grease on the bearing. All very easy to do yourself. Use your $626 to buy an oil extractor ($50), oil, filters, plugs, some grease and a syringe. Then you can send me half of your leftover money...

Many say it is best to change the oil at the end of the season, so the accumulated acids don't sit in your engine all winter (and the counterpoint is that by changing in the spring you run on nice fresh oil right off). Probably not a really big deal either way as long as you are changing it once a year.

I wouldn't do the plugs. At 10 hours they ain't ripe yet... But I would do them at least every year to 2 years. Otherwise they can corrode and you can't get them out of the engine.

As to the intermediate bearing, @Cobra Jet Steering LLC recommends NOT using a grease gun. Unscrew the zerk fitting (the thing where you normally attach the grease gun), take your syringe and fill the bearing with grease that way. Everyone tends to overfill the bearing with the gun and break the seals. And it is a mess to replace. When you have the grease in with the syringe, put the zerk back on. That is the best advice I have heard on the grease.

Good luck!

 

[HangOutdoors]

@HangOutdoors .....YES!!!!! You should grease the bearing at 10 hours. Then at 100. There is a lengthy thread on here about this and the reasons for it. Follow the advice on the thread.

I have read the threads here, been a part of a lot of them and the word "Should is not quite accurate". As has been indicated and beat to death, there are two camps from members here, from Yamaha, from Dealers and their service departments. It is up to each individual which path they are going to take whether or not they want/are going to grease them at 10 hours. Manuals have conflicting info as well as Yamaha maintenance lists and they have differed from year to year. Some dealers, who know Yamaha's well say "not to at 10 hours and they don't - per Yamaha, and other say and do it. If you take it in for service then they will do what they will do unless you tell them to do otherwise. If you do it yourself you will need to decide what you are going to do after ingesting all the available info. If you over fill it you will blow the seal which is not good at all.

I choose not to at 10 hour maintenance window after a lengthy conversation here as well as with my dealer who races Yamaha's and is pretty solid and they don't do it at 10 hours either. I did mine personally at the second oil change which was around 90 hours, following the method that @Cobra Jet Steering LLC uses. I hit 90 hours after another 45 days after the first oil change. I may have chosen to do it differently if I knew I was only going to put on 30-40 hours and then store it all winter, but that is something to ponder.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

@HangOutdoors .....I respectfully disagree. The strength of this forum is the diversity of opinion. I definitely stand by my previous recommendation that the bearing housing SHOULD be greased at the 10 hour period.......pretty clear from the manual..... "should". Because there was some contradictory opinion regarding this matter I spoke with technicians at Yamaha USA, Yamaha Canada and Riva Racing. The bottom line was that these units are designed to be greased, according to manufacturer's specification at 10 hours or 30 days' use. As a long time Yamaha technician I trust asked, "Do you want to risk voiding your warranty for failing to do this?" Although a compelling argument, that was NOT my reason for doing the maintenance. The reason was it was recommended by the manufacturer in my manual (pls see below) and the reasons for that recommendation made complete sense to me. It is a very simple task that takes about 10 minutes and costs peanuts to do. Why would anyone not do it? As for regular dealer maintenance costing a lot of money, I agree. Simple answer to that - do it yourself and particularly if your unit is under warranty (mine is for 5 years) document your maintenance: keep your parts bills and take a couple of pictures. IMO simple.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

Here is the 2nd part video I captured while doing the rest of the 10 hour service, including spark plugs and other things the manual says to inspect.

@Daren and Heather ......respectfully suggest that you never use anti-seize on your spark plugs as it could damage your the threads in the head as the anti-seize will allow the plugs to be over torqued. There is a lot of information on this topic that should be read. IMO do not use thread anti-seize. I do not allow it on my yamaha products. As well, sorry again to disagree, but stating your spark plug torque "feels right" is just asking for trouble. You must use a torque wrench set for your engine head's setting. When reinstalling a new spark plug I would also use a longer adapter handle with no ratchet on it to better control the seating of the spark plug so it doesn't wobble as you try the initial seating. Some technicians use a piece of rubber hose to get a better feel and so that it can twist if the plug tries to cross thread. Once the plug has been seated (just snug) snap your ratchet head back on then set the torque to the specific setting for your head.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

First thing I do is remove the plugs from a new engine and never seize them as well as dielectric grease the coil boots, then spray white lithium grease on the engine block and all electrical connections.
I never use a torque wrench, I also coat the oil filters with white lithium to prevent rust as well as the hose clamps, I also add ZINC to the pump and ride plates, coat the exposed cables at the pump with bees wax.
Custom build my special intake grate to keep weeds from clogging the intakes for the pumps thus avoiding having an engine overheat from weeds. Add my Jeff cruise control and add an electric trolling motor specially designed quick release fitting so I can run a trolling motor on my skies quickly and easily remove it when I do not need it or put it back on when I want to. Also add gear lube to the jet pump and the intermediate bearings. And add my custom built video camera mount to the front. I obviously add my special patented steering system before it ever hits the water.

 

[Canuckjetboater]

First thing I do is remove the plugs from a new engine and never seize them as well as dielectric grease the coil boots, then spray white lithium grease on the engine block and all electrical connections.
I never use a torque wrench, I also coat the oil filters with white lithium to prevent rust as well as the hose clamps, I also add ZINC to the pump and ride plates, coat the exposed cables at the pump with bees wax.
Custom build my special intake grate to keep weeds from clogging the intakes for the pumps thus avoiding having an engine overheat from weeds. Add my Jeff cruise control and add an electric trolling motor specially designed quick release fitting so I can run a trolling motor on my skies quickly and easily remove it when I do not need it or put it back on when I want to. Also add gear lube to the jet pump and the intermediate bearings. And add my custom built video camera mount to the front. I obviously add my special patented steering system before it ever hits the water.

First thing I do is remove the plugs from a new engine and never seize them as well as dielectric grease the coil boots, then spray white lithium grease on the engine block and all electrical connections.
I never use a torque wrench, I also coat the oil filters with white lithium to prevent rust as well as the hose clamps, I also add ZINC to the pump and ride plates, coat the exposed cables at the pump with bees wax.
Custom build my special intake grate to keep weeds from clogging the intakes for the pumps thus avoiding having an engine overheat from weeds. Add my Jeff cruise control and add an electric trolling motor specially designed quick release fitting so I can run a trolling motor on my skies quickly and easily remove it when I do not need it or put it back on when I want to. Also add gear lube to the jet pump and the intermediate bearings. And add my custom built video camera mount to the front. I obviously add my special patented steering system before it ever hits the water.

@Cobra Jet Steering LLC .....love your posts - would REALLY love to see a picture and some specs of your custom intake weed-annihilating grate unless it is about to debut as a new patented product. Respectfully, I disagree regarding not using a torque wrench. Waaay back the early ones might not have been as reliable - but for the last 15 years (at least) they are almost infallible. Steel spark plug threads and aluminum heads are a recipe for an expensive disaster. Just a bit too much torque and the threads strip and IMO at that point there is no decent alternative but a new head - yeah I know the repair possibilities but IMO they are crap. I have seen faaar too many oh $hit moments when a hot shot technician has damaged a head even on $100K racing engines. Why, Why, Why take the chance? Once you have had that feeling - when a head is stripped by a $10 plug and your heart drops - no one would ever "hand tighten" a metal plug into an aluminum or composite head, again. I use torque wrenches for EVERYTHING. BTW.....Yamaha specifies their use when installing spark plugs as does Riva Racing....so with my 5 year warranty I strip my head (99.9% impossible with a torque wrench) what do you think would happen? You seem like a very, very technology-embracing guy, I just can't figure out the no torque wrench, particularly on something so prone to stripping? P.S. No one should ever use thread ease on any aluminum block engine. The plugs should be changed frequently enough to obviate that and if you are getting corrosion that makes the plugs "stick" you have another problem to solve. - or you have waaay overtightened them which wouldn't happen if you used a torque wrench.....My 2 cents ......maybe given the length - my 25 cents.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Canuckjetboater replied


@Cobra Jet Steering LLC .....love your posts - would REALLY love to see a picture and some specs of your custom intake weed-annihilating grate unless it is about to debut as a new patented product. I would like to be 50 again but not going to happen!
Respectfully, I disagree regarding not using a torque wrench. Waaay back the early ones might not have been as reliable - but for the last 15 years (at least) they are almost infallible. Not the reason
Steel spark plug threads and aluminum heads are a recipe for an expensive disaster. Reason for never seize dissimilar metal corrosion and carbon buildup on the lower portion of the plug threads .
Just a bit too much torque and the threads strip and IMO at that point there is no decent alternative but a new head - yeah I know the repair possibilities but IMO they are crap. I have seen faaar too many oh $hit moments when a hot shot technician has damaged a head even on $100K racing engines. Over a half century working on engines I use my experience to let me know when the plug is tight and never have had one cause any issues.
Why, Why, Why take the chance? Once you have had that feeling - when a head is stripped by a $10 plug and your heart drops - no one would ever "hand tighten" a metal plug into an aluminum or composite head, again. I use torque wrenches for EVERYTHING. BTW I never use one on plugs and with never seize on the plug you can't use one if you know what's good for you.
.....Yamaha specifies their use when installing spark plugs as does Riva Racing....so with my 5 year warranty I strip my head (99.9% impossible with a torque wrench) what do you think would happen? You seem like a very, very technology-embracing guy, I just can't figure out the no torque wrench, I explained it . particularly on something so prone to stripping? P.S. No one should ever use thread ease on any aluminum block engine. Over 850 hours no problems and no plan on changing my ways. The plugs should be changed frequently enough to obviate that and if you are getting corrosion that makes the plugs "stick" you have another problem to solve. - or you have waaay overtightened them which wouldn't happen if you used a torque wrench.....My 2 cents ......maybe given the length - my 25 cents.
I do things my way and when they work for me it ain't broke so It ain't getting fixed, and many people do it this way ,do a search on here this is a commonly discussed subject. The MR 1 engines had many a broken number 3 spark plug and I assumed it was the number 3 cylinder that had the exhaust valves stay open when the engine shut off , water in the water box evaporates and condenses in the cylinder that has open exhaust valves so the probable cause, and the solution is never seize, last 2 1800 engines had over 650 hours I do the same routine on every one and will be purchasing new soon. Waiting for a call from the sales manager at Barneys will run down there with my check book and buy 2 new skies and the process will start all over again but these may be my last ones due to the my age. Now understand I own the engines so I can do whatever I want if you own an engine you can do whatever you want it's all good I have good reason for doing it my way and will only stop doing things that way when I kick the bucket.
People actually foolishly told me back in 2001 that if jet boats could steer better they would have already done it. jet boats were a declining market even sea doo stopped making them and they tried their hand at steering for P W C's but that was soon abandoned . If I want to do something I keep at it and usually manage to come up with the answer. I remember when we had emissions and to get your annual sticker you had to pass a test at a state inspection station I had an old dodge van with a 360-V8 in it and not even as much as a catalytic converter on the thing.
I decided to build a water injection system that I could attach to an intake vacuum hose and regulate the flow of water into the intake under the carb.
I installed a bottle near the radiator and used clear hose to watch the water bubbles enter the engine, I would drive the van in low gear on the way to the inspection station to clear out all the carbon from inside the engine, I also blocked off half of the radiator with cardboard to raise the engine temp.
Then once at the inspection station my readings were so low that they would go all around the underside of the engine and exhaust system with a big mirror looking for a hole in the system, then I would get my sticker and laugh at the look on their faces.
I do things my way and hate being told it can't be done, No rules just imagination and determination.

 

[tdonoughue]

Oi. Folks, there is much written on both sides on this topic. Much respect to both, but let us not get hung up on that with a new user looking for guidance. I have an opinion on the topic, but I will not state it. Is it here on the board if one cares to research it.

I believe that the point is that for a 10 hr service you should undertake that yourself if you like your money. If money is no object, go right ahead.

If you do it yourself, basically you can't screw up following a few basic rules: remove the new plugs and put in new ones; remove oil and filter and put in new ones. Check the intermediate grease. You will find lots of advice beyond that (anti-seize or not, Fram or Yamaha, this grease or that). Some of that advice may make your experience better or not. All good. Plenty of opinions and expertise here on the board from which to draw. Some of those will conflict, as with the anti-seize issue. Pick one and go with it knowing you are down to that little bit where experts debate. On the macro level, you are far better than those who do not change their oil, and better than those who paid $646 to do what the rest of us do for $20.

Let us boat.