jacoviii
Jetboaters Captain
- Messages
- 658
- Reaction score
- 325
- Points
- 202
- Location
- Independence Mo
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2022
- Boat Model
- 255XD
- Boat Length
- 25
Ok so I have given some of you some info on how to get a better sound. So I had told some to set treble to +1 or 2 , Mid to +2 or 3, and Bass to 75% or all the way ,also adj the subwoofer level and HZ on the Fusion HU.
Well I have started my audio upgrades. I wanted to try a line driver / bass booster. I cut the OEM sub RCA going into the WS HTX6 amp. I wired in new RCAs to the harness and to the amp. Fired it up with the sub's RCAs unhooked and the sub still played. It seams that the DSP of the HTX6 uses the Zone one signal input to run the whole amp. I had the L/R speaker output issue from the factory ( fade L but R side of the cabin played / L side of the tower) I reached out to WS and they sent me a pair of flash tools to reprogram both amps HTX4 & HTX6. The flash tools had 2 programs 1 for 2018 & 1 for 2019. I tried both but nether used the SUB signal. But they did fix the L/R issues.
One of the line drivers / booster I have boosts both treble and bass 0 to +18db. Now the highs do not need any help but I will be trying it on the other (zone1) inputs next to see if it will help the bass without over powering the highs.
On another note while messing with the sub I found the wall that it is mounted in flexes a lot. I fount the wall starts to move 180 out of faze. This will cut the subs output as much as half. When I braced the wall there was a notable difference. Now you can not just put a brace between the hull and the sub's mounting wall. If you do and the hull needs to flex (while in slip/docked or tided up to another boat) it could cause cracks in the gel coat. I do not have a fix for this as of yet. More to come.
Well I have started my audio upgrades. I wanted to try a line driver / bass booster. I cut the OEM sub RCA going into the WS HTX6 amp. I wired in new RCAs to the harness and to the amp. Fired it up with the sub's RCAs unhooked and the sub still played. It seams that the DSP of the HTX6 uses the Zone one signal input to run the whole amp. I had the L/R speaker output issue from the factory ( fade L but R side of the cabin played / L side of the tower) I reached out to WS and they sent me a pair of flash tools to reprogram both amps HTX4 & HTX6. The flash tools had 2 programs 1 for 2018 & 1 for 2019. I tried both but nether used the SUB signal. But they did fix the L/R issues.
One of the line drivers / booster I have boosts both treble and bass 0 to +18db. Now the highs do not need any help but I will be trying it on the other (zone1) inputs next to see if it will help the bass without over powering the highs.
On another note while messing with the sub I found the wall that it is mounted in flexes a lot. I fount the wall starts to move 180 out of faze. This will cut the subs output as much as half. When I braced the wall there was a notable difference. Now you can not just put a brace between the hull and the sub's mounting wall. If you do and the hull needs to flex (while in slip/docked or tided up to another boat) it could cause cracks in the gel coat. I do not have a fix for this as of yet. More to come.