'18+ 242 se / Xe 212x With wet sounds amp / Fusion HU getting the best sound with near stock setup.

[jacoviii]

Not sure. I will look but I have put more info on here then on FB. What are you needing?

 

[Pkstr242X]

I just bought a 2020 242x and I was trying to add a sub and amp because the wet sounds system isn’t sounding great to me. I’ve been trying to scour the forum and got on this thread but I’m not smart enough to figure out what y’all are saying lol. So I’m just trying to figure out the easiest or best way to add more bass. I’ve seen you talk about cutting wires to run the sound bar and sub on its own amp.

 

[jacoviii]

Ok ez thing to do is the treble mid and bass adj listed above.
Option 2 is add a line driver / bass booster this will help a lot
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i494_bass-restoration-expanders.html

Option 3 Cut the sub RCAs input wires going to the HTX6 amp they are not used anyways. Put RCAs on the end. Pick a amp that will run both of your subs.
If you add just a new amp and sub and still use the stock sub on the stock amp sub channel they may play at different Frequencies and could cancel each other out a bit

 

[jacoviii]

See pic

 

[Pkstr242X]

See pic

Ok ez thing to do is the treble mid and bass adj listed above.
Option 2 is add a line driver / bass booster this will help a lot
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i494_bass-restoration-expanders.html

Option 3 Cut the sub RCAs input wires going to the HTX6 amp they are not used anyways. Put RCAs on the end. Pick a amp that will run both of your subs.
If you add just a new amp and sub and still use the stock sub on the stock amp sub channel they may play at different Frequencies and could cancel each other out a bit

Great info! Sorry if I’m Asking a stupid question. To add the line driver to control the new amp and subs (WS stock and new sub) would I just wire it off the rca in the pics for option 3? Those don’t power the sub so would I have to also cut the other rca wires and plug them into the new amp? I really want to learn this stuff but Yamaha went full Bose on the wiring.

 

[jacoviii]

Option # 3 would not need a line drive. Most sub amps have a bass nob if you want one. or set it and leave it

 

[Pkstr242X]

Great! Last question. To run the WS sub and another off a new amp do you run new wires from the WS sub to the amp or can you tap into certain wires from the WS OEM amp? Thanks!

 

[jacoviii]

I would run new wires but the yellow wire coming from the HTX6 are to the sub.

 

[Pkstr242X]

Thanks. Do you have any idea on how to free up more power to the soundbar?

 

[jacoviii]

No it is on the HTX4 4x100 so 400w @ 4ohm 2 channels are running both of the Icon8" 100x 2ch and 2chs running the sound bar 100x 2ch The sound bar is rated at 75x2 RMS and 150x2 max so it is about right.

Have you adjusted the Zone settings on the Fusion yet. Also down load the Fusion APP to your phone it makes it EZ

 

[Pkstr242X]

No it is on the HTX4 4x100 so 400w @ 4ohm 2 channels are running both of the Icon8" 100x 2ch and 2chs running the sound bar 100x 2ch The sound bar is rated at 75x2 RMS and 150x2 max so it is about right.

Have you adjusted the Zone settings on the Fusion yet. Also down load the Fusion APP to your phone it makes it EZ

Yeah I downloaded the app and adjusted the settings on the Fusion HU. I keep reading posts about rewiring the port cabin 6.5 speaker to have it run parallel vs. in a series. I am planning on just re pinning the plugs on the amp to allow for each speaker to run on its own channels. Then take your idea and tap an RCA off the HTX-6 that isn’t being used for the sub and run that amp to power my WS sub and maybe another sub on ill add on the drivers cockpit area. Last thing is possibly running a new power cable from the battery of just t tap with a Stinger Distribution block for the 3rd amp and double the fuse amps. Anybody running a capacitor on their boats? A buddy recommended it vs. a distribution block for piece of mind and even out the current draw from the batteries when just floating.

 

[jacoviii]

NO CAPs they do little you need another battery. Your speakers are run front bow L and rear cabin L parallel 2 ohm on one ch = 150w /front bow R and rear cabin R parallel 2 ohm on one ch = 150w. The rear stern speakers are on the there own channels at 100w each. The best thing to do is add a set of speaker mid cabin and run parallel with the stern speakers.

 

[jacoviii]

The parallel vs. in a series issues you read about are the older boats running polk amps

 

[Pkstr242X]

The parallel vs. in a series issues you read about are the older boats running polk amps

Ohhhhh! Wow good call! I still want more bass from the sub. I will just patch in the RCA you talked about and wire that to the WS sub or in parallel with a second sub. Am I on the right track?
How about the tower sound bar. Is that getting enough power with the HTX-4 wired from the factory?

 

[Pkstr242X]

I might need to get the re flash tool from WS.

 

[jacoviii]

The flash was on early '18 boats that had the L & R wrong on the boat but correct in the tower. I doubt you have that issue. But you can fade side to side and see.

 

[clearstream]

I just bought a 2020 242x and I was trying to add a sub and amp because the wet sounds system isn’t sounding great to me. I’ve been trying to scour the forum and got on this thread but I’m not smart enough to figure out what y’all are saying lol. So I’m just trying to figure out the easiest or best way to add more bass. I’ve seen you talk about cutting wires to run the sound bar and sub on its own amp.

I bought a 2019 242XE in October 2019, I am also not satisfied with system, please keep us updated!

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

[Pkstr242X]

The flash was on early '18 boats that had the L & R wrong on the boat but correct in the tower. I doubt you have that issue. But you can fade side to side and see.

Ok thanks and sorry for dragging this out as I try to figure out how to get the most out of the oem WS system. I am going to buy a SoundControl Epicenter DBRP and wire it up.

I am thinking of cutting the RCA from the HU into the HTX-6 and HTX-4 RCA, then creating a new RCA connection that will combine those 2 into one RCA input going into Epicenter, then do the same going out of the Epicenter split into each of the amps by repining a new RCA into those. I just wonder how many RCAs I can combine into one input going into and out of the Epicenter.

 

[jacoviii]

You will only need one set of RCAs the ones going to the HTX6. The Epicenter DBRP recreates bass it will not be a good idea to ad it to the HTX4 that runs the towers. Also if you run both amps off of the Epicenter DBRP you will lose the zone control between the cabin and the tower. If you want to add to the Bass and the Highs you need a Amazon.com: Rockford RFPEQU Universal Punch EQ: Car Electronics
But If you raise the highs they could / will get too loud before the bass is where you want it. That is why I said to use the Epicenter to bring the bass up

 

[jacoviii]

You can not just cut and add to different RCA signals together.