'18+ 242 se / Xe 212x With wet sounds amp / Fusion HU getting the best sound with near stock setup.

[jacoviii]

I bought a 2019 242XE in October 2019, I am also not satisfied with system, please keep us updated!

Thanks,
Jeremy

What would you like to do to your audio. What have you tried? What are your settings?

 

[clearstream]

What would you like to do to your audio. What have you tried? What are your settings?

I have not done much, similar settings on connext screen with bass and treble settings....with some improvement. I do realize I will have to likely add another wetsounds 10” FA sub on opposite side of boat with a dedicated amp. I am also not opposed to adding an enclosed sub or subs to achive more bass. I am glad to hear that the factory 10” sub is under powered and my expectations are not too high. It is disappointing reading what others are dealing with. I understand why Yamaha did this, but ultimately i paid for this “ok” system.

 

[Manningr22]

I would run new wires but the yellow wire coming from the HTX6 are to the sub.

Hey Jacoviii, curious on the benefit of running new wires.... I am planning on doing a slight upgrade to my system this week (if I ever get my boat back! Damn 10hr service.....) and was thinking the following:

1. I purchased a Wetsounds DX2 amp and necessary wiring and mounting hardware. I also purchased a high level to RCA converter. The plan is to cut or pull the pins for the input line for sub off the back of stock HTX-6, solder in above converter, and then run RCA's to new sub.
2. Cut sub output wires from HTX-6, solder short jumper wires onto it, and plug into new DX2 amp.
3. Remove remote wire from HTX-6, solder in two jumpers, and plug into both amps.
4. Check gauge wire feeding amp and either use a power block to split it from stock wiring, or run new heavier gauge with splitter to both amps.

Am I on the right track here or am I missing something obvious? I am decent with electronics but struggle a bit with Audio so any advice would be dope.

I was also thinking of doing the same as above for the Soundbar and just combining left and right channel output into one so I get a bit more control of the soundbar over the DSP. This entire boat is so heavy on Treble (even with your aforementioned Bass/Mid/Treble adjustments) that I feel any little bit will help, even if I would be sacrificing left/right control. I guess with that, the main question would be - A will it work/should I even do it? And B, should I just randomly pick an input side (left or right) to wire into new RCA while leaving the other one disconnected?

Final question..... Would buying a non-DSP HTX-6 and swapping out the OG be worth it you think? Would it make a noticeable enough difference in the Bass?

 

[Pkstr242X]

I was thinking of cutting the RCA from the HU for the SUB and adding a new amp and running new wires to the WS sub and another sub. Then plug in a Digital Bass Reconstruction Unit to give me more low end.

I feel stupid leaving two unused channels on the HTX-6 but I think the bass would not be consistent running one sub of one amp and another sub of a second amp. I am really bad at Audio which is why I bought the upgraded system but its just so blah!!! Sorry for the rant.

 

[Pkstr242X]

How do you fix the sub being 180 degrees out of phase? rewire it to a new amp and lower the hertz or switch the polarity of the sub?

 

[jacoviii]

Hey Jacoviii, curious on the benefit of running new wires.... I am planning on doing a slight upgrade to my system this week (if I ever get my boat back! Damn 10hr service.....) and was thinking the following:

1. I purchased a Wetsounds DX2 amp and necessary wiring and mounting hardware. I also purchased a high level to RCA converter. The plan is to cut or pull the pins for the input line for sub off the back of stock HTX-6, solder in above converter, and then run RCA's to new sub.
2. Cut sub output wires from HTX-6, solder short jumper wires onto it, and plug into new DX2 amp.
3. Remove remote wire from HTX-6, solder in two jumpers, and plug into both amps.
4. Check gauge wire feeding amp and either use a power block to split it from stock wiring, or run new heavier gauge with splitter to both amps.

Am I on the right track here or am I missing something obvious? I am decent with electronics but struggle a bit with Audio so any advice would be dope.

I was also thinking of doing the same as above for the Soundbar and just combining left and right channel output into one so I get a bit more control of the soundbar over the DSP. This entire boat is so heavy on Treble (even with your aforementioned Bass/Mid/Treble adjustments) that I feel any little bit will help, even if I would be sacrificing left/right control. I guess with that, the main question would be - A will it work/should I even do it? And B, should I just randomly pick an input side (left or right) to wire into new RCA while leaving the other one disconnected

Final question..... Would buying a non-DSP HTX-6 and swapping out the OG be worth it you think? Would it make a noticeable enough difference in the Bass?

Ok yes new power wires will be needed they only ran 6 awg wire to the amps.
So it sounds like you want to leave the one sub on the HTX6 and run a second one on the DX2. If yes then there is a set of Sub signal wires from the Fusion HU run to the HTX6 but are not used. I would run the DX2 off of that. But I would not leave the one sub on the HTX6. I would want both subs running on the same amp. The stock sub sound a whole lot better with a Bass epicenter but then I ran into the issue even with the 300w RMS to the sub. It was moving the panel/wall it is mounted in 180 degrees out of phase that it cut down on the output.
So a few things oem or any sub in a similar mounting needs braced to get the most out of it/them. Stock sub is doing little to nothing as is unless a bass extender is used.
There is no room to do anything to the tower. If you parallel the sound bar @ 2 ohms and try and bridged 2ch on the HTX4 it will just let out a puff of smoke. I have seen a lot of refurbished sound bars for sale. The Icon8 could take a bit more power but there is no way to wire for more
The HTX4 100x4 @4ohms =400 and is 150x4 @2 ohms but there is no good way to get to 2 ohms.

If you are thinking of ditching the HTX6 I would not do another 6ch amp . I Got rid of mine an got a WS SYN-DX 4 running 8 Revo 6.5.

If the highs are to high turn the treble and mids down on the Hu

 

[jacoviii]

How do you fix the sub being 180 degrees out of phase? rewire it to a new amp and lower the hertz or switch the polarity of the sub?

Yeah leaving 2 unused channels is why I went with 2 new amps. A 4ch and a 1ch for the subs.

Sorry it is not 180*. The issue is as the sub moves the panel/wall moves at a certain point it start to move out of sequence.
. Let's say the sub is pulling in 1/2" but as the weight of it moving the wall pulls in a 1/4". That movement just shortened the stroke of the sub to 1/4". This also happens as it pushes. If the sub and wall movement stayed in sequence the sub output would be cut in half. But seeing that a bass note is always changing sometimes as the sub is pulling in but the wall is returning to 0* or + it colors or/ changes the sound of the bass note.

To help this issue some have add a layer of wood to the back of the wall. But if the wall is not heavier the the sub there will still be an issue.
You can not just add a brace to the hull due to the hull needs to be able to flex or the brace could cause spider cracks in the gel coat.
I'm looking at add a stiff foam brace (like a solid 4" pool noodle)from the hull to the top right near the sub.

 

[Pkstr242X]

Well before I even tried to mess with anything now both my amps are blinking Red. One half second red then 4 x 0.25 second blinks. Over Voltage Protection. I disconnected all power from the battery and all inputs into both amps. Checked all fuses and nothing is blown. Hook it all back up and I get a pop sound then red lights of death again. It all worked when I left the house and once on the river it went south. I hit a few big wakes and maybe a wire popped out? I also had a BCU error on the connext screen but after turning the battery switches off and on it went away. Only the blinking lights are left. Any ideas? Voltage to both batteries is a ~12v

 

[jacoviii]

Most everyone has only seen Low voltage.

 

[paharam]

Ok ez thing to do is the treble mid and bass adj listed above.
Option 2 is add a line driver / bass booster this will help a lot
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i494_bass-restoration-expanders.html

Option 3 Cut the sub RCAs input wires going to the HTX6 amp they are not used anyways. Put RCAs on the end. Pick a amp that will run both of your subs.
If you add just a new amp and sub and still use the stock sub on the stock amp sub channel they may play at different Frequencies and could cancel each other out a bit

All,

I am also disappointed in the bass output on my 2020 212x. Has anyone just done option #2 Jacovii has listed above? If so is there a brand / model you would recommend? Just curious if I can get away with this instead of adding a second amp and sub. I really would prefer not adding a second sub if possible but am willing to add an amp. I don't want this to get too complicated. Thanks all.

 

[jacoviii]

A free air sub does not take a lot of power to get it moving. A important thing when tuning a free air sub is to set the subsonic filter @ 30-40hz and the low pass filter to 80hz. The mounting surface needs to be braced. If the surface / wall flex. the flex will cut down on the subs output greatly. But you can not just add of wood to the wall as it will move too (yes not as much but it will) Also you can not just ad a brace of wood from the wall to the hull. The hull need to flex and a ridged spot at the brace area could cause spider cracking on the hull. I'm looking at adding a brace made from 2" spa flex pvc tubing or a 4" pool noodle from the mounting surface to the hull set in place with 3M 5200. I will be doing this in the next few days

 

[bobholthaus]

Reviving this post. I have a 2020 242 SE and want to add the Rockford RFPEQ to my stock setup (which is a wetsounds amp, I believe 7 channel (3 pairs of oem WS speakers and the WS sub)). Is there an oem RCA that plugs into the oem amp, and do I just insert the RFPEQ inline there? Second, where did you splice power for the RFPEQ under the helm?

if I need an OEM wiring to RCA adapter, I am happy to pay someone to make that for me; anyone still willing to do that?

This solution seems like the simplest plug-n-play setup to get some more oomph from the oem setup before replacing the amp and all speakers, with the only apparent downside is some added noise.

Two more questions: where did you mount the Bass knob?

If I decide I want to add two more speakers and a sub where the captains chairs are, which amp do you recommend to handle just a pair of speakers and a sub, and can I tap all wiring and connections in the helm compartment to mount it right next to the oem amp? Thanks everyone!

 

[jacoviii]

Reviving this post. I have a 2020 242 SE and want to add the Rockford RFPEQ to my stock setup (which is a wetsounds amp, I believe 7 channel (3 pairs of oem WS speakers and the WS sub)). Is there an oem RCA that plugs into the oem amp, and do I just insert the RFPEQ inline there? Second, where did you splice power for the RFPEQ under the helm?

if I need an OEM wiring to RCA adapter, I am happy to pay someone to make that for me; anyone still willing to do that?

This solution seems like the simplest plug-n-play setup to get some more oomph from the oem setup before replacing the amp and all speakers, with the only apparent downside is some added noise.

Two more questions: where did you mount the Bass knob?

If I decide I want to add two more speakers and a sub where the captains chairs are, which amp do you recommend to handle just a pair of speakers and a sub, and can I tap all wiring and connections in the helm compartment to mount it right next to the oem amp? Thanks everyone!

I got your pm and will contact you. But the HTX6 that you already have has room for 2 more speakers to be ran for mid cabin speakers. This would help keep cost down. If when adding a second sub. I would run a new sub amp to power both subs.

 

[bobholthaus]

I forgot that I read in this thread that that amp has capacity for two more speakers at the captains seats; I would be willing to add those. I believe I read that I’d wire them in with the stern speakers so then I’d lose my Zones, correct? I look forward to talking to you tomorrow. I’m really just looking for more volume at 3/4 throttle and above, which another pair near the chairs would accomplish.

Btw, how do I get wires from the port side to the starboard side?

 

[jacoviii]

Sorry yes I forgot on the SE it only has 1 amp. On the XE it has 2 amps and Zone 1 is the boat Zone 2 is the tower. But it can still be done Z1 can be wired so it is the main cabin and Z2 is bow and stern. But all in all if you are jamming out on the stern you are ok with the louder volume thought the whole boat. Also changing zone setting is a PITA on the HU, a bit better on the phone app.

 

[Maxdog21]

I know from reading you may be tired of this topic by now but can someone tell me if this looks correct? Thanks again for all the info. After many hours reading up on all this and looking at my system I think I finally know what I have. Well, almost.... The HTX6 bugs me bc it is a black box.

This is what I think I know for my 2019 242 SE Stereo wiring

• RA70 with Z1, Z2 and sub (all low level line outs) without RCA. Instead it has direct wire connection to the HTX6
• HTX6 in
  • Z1 -> CH1 and CH2
  • Z2 -> CH3 and CH4
  • Sub -> CH5 and CH6 (but the HTX6 is not using this signal at all)
• HTX6 out
  • CH1 -> front and rear left in parallel (2 Ohm @150w)
  • CH2 -> front and rear right in parallel (2 Ohm @150w)
  • CH3 -> swimdeck left
  • CH4 -> swimdeck right
  • CH5 and CH6 bridged -> sub

Thanks!

 

[jacoviii]

Yes you are correct. This is for the 242se

 

[Maxdog21]

I know from reading you may be tired of this topic by now but can someone tell me if this looks correct? Thanks again for all the info. After many hours reading up on all this and looking at my system I think I finally know what I have. Well, almost.... The HTX6 bugs me bc it is a black box.

This is what I think I know for my 2019 242 SE Stereo wiring

• RA70 with Z1, Z2 and sub (all low level line outs) without RCA. Instead it has direct wire connection to the HTX6
• HTX6 in
  • Z1 -> CH1 and CH2
  • Z2 -> CH3 and CH4
  • Sub -> CH5 and CH6 (but the HTX6 is not using this signal at all)
• HTX6 out
  • CH1 -> front and rear left in parallel (2 Ohm @150w)
  • CH2 -> front and rear right in parallel (2 Ohm @150w)
  • CH3 -> swimdeck left
  • CH4 -> swimdeck right
  • CH5 and CH6 bridged -> sub

Thanks!

Yes you are correct. This is for the 242se

It turns out I was wrong. On my 2019 the Sub line from the RA70 is being used. The red/black pair on CH5 is the input for the CH5/CH6 bridged output. I cut all lines and replaced with RCA. I isolated CH5 in and played test tones. The input level is terribly low but a line driver helped a lot. Thanks for getting me to this point. I will update my summary post with the corrected info and post a new message that is easy for anyone else with the 2019 242 to find.

 

[Bizywk]

I know from reading you may be tired of this topic by now but can someone tell me if this looks correct? Thanks again for all the info. After many hours reading up on all this and looking at my system I think I finally know what I have. Well, almost.... The HTX6 bugs me bc it is a black box.

This is what I think I know for my 2019 242 SE Stereo wiring

• RA70 with Z1, Z2 and sub (all low level line outs) without RCA. Instead it has direct wire connection to the HTX6
• HTX6 in
  • Z1 -> CH1 and CH2
  • Z2 -> CH3 and CH4
  • Sub -> CH5 and CH6 (but the HTX6 is not using this signal at all)
• HTX6 out
  • CH1 -> front and rear left in parallel (2 Ohm @150w)
  • CH2 -> front and rear right in parallel (2 Ohm @150w)
  • CH3 -> swimdeck left
  • CH4 -> swimdeck right
  • CH5 and CH6 bridged -> sub

Thanks!

We're just about to pull the trigger on a 2018 242 LSE so I can't root through the cable harness yet. If this wiring pattern is correct, where are the stock tower tweeters getting their signal? Chan 1 and 2 would already have the lowest safe impedance.

 

[Maxdog21]

We're just about to pull the trigger on a 2018 242 LSE so I can't root through the cable harness yet. If this wiring pattern is correct, where are the stock tower tweeters getting their signal? Chan 1 and 2 would already have the lowest safe impedance.

The 2019 does not have tweeters in the tower like the 2018 so I do not know. Tee 2019 has led lights in the tower instead and also 10 inch sub.