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No worries there. I spoke to both XS batteries and blue seas asked them the same question you should be fine. The issue is charging them on a shore charger. Just be sure you have a two bank charger where you can set each bank to the appropriate battery type and your fine. I trip the breaker so the batteries are isolated during shore charging. Post pics when done- would be great to see your work.
You shouldn't need to trip the breaker to shore charge. With the switch in the off position the batteries should be isolated from the system and each other. On mine, when I am in the off position my batteries are isolated and I have each battery on its own bank to charge.
You shouldn't need to trip the breaker to shore charge. With the switch in the off position the batteries should be isolated from the system and each other. On mine, when I am in the off position my batteries are isolated and I have each battery on its own bank to charge.
Hey Guys, when you pull your 195s radio out of the transom, can someone take a picture of the back and the wires? Looking to just add an amp for the stock speakers to start, but wanted to know what I was getting into before I started. Thanks
Hey Guys, when you pull your 195s radio out of the transom, can someone take a picture of the back and the wires? Looking to just add an amp for the stock speakers to start, but wanted to know what I was getting into before I started. Thanks
I have an AR195 and the radio is different I switch the round jensen for the kicker KMC5 because of the LED and the direct fit to add the amps and then add a remote on the back
You shouldn't need to trip the breaker to shore charge. With the switch in the off position the batteries should be isolated from the system and each other. On mine, when I am in the off position my batteries are isolated and I have each battery on its own bank to charge.
Unless you modify the ACR the batteries are not isolated. Once it detects sufficient charging voltage to the start, it will close and connect the house in parallel with the start to charge both. I don't use a dual bank charger for this reason - I just connect to the start and both get charged up just like running off the engines. For winter storage, I use the combine switch to keep them connected all winter. Different size or different chemistry won't make a difference as the charge current flows through least resistance and will balance naturally.
Hey Guys, when you pull your 195s radio out of the transom, can someone take a picture of the back and the wires? Looking to just add an amp for the stock speakers to start, but wanted to know what I was getting into before I started. Thanks
I was lucky and had the RCA plugs intact on my boat. I just ran RCA wires through the bulkhead to the Fusion radio and installed the amp by the batteries. I ran all new wiring as the stock wiring was in series for some speakers. Some have reported the RCA plugs are crimped off and they ordered a replacement harness from Fusion.
Unless you modify the ACR the batteries are not isolated. Once it detects sufficient charging voltage to the start, it will close and connect the house in parallel with the start to charge both. I don't use a dual bank charger for this reason - I just connect to the start and both get charged up just like running off the engines. For winter storage, I use the combine switch to keep them connected all winter. Different size or different chemistry won't make a difference as the charge current flows through least resistance and will balance naturally.
running the ACR and Loads to the top of the switch and the batteries to the bottom isolates the batteries when the switch is off. Or Batteries to Top and ACR and Loads on Bottom Posts does the same thing as well.
I did not use the start isolation. Just the ground with fuse. You could actually put a switch there to turn off the acr and isolate when you charge if you want. (See switch option in diagram) There is a wiring diagram I posted earlier but I did modify slightly. Instead of running stock accessories off the house, I kept all stock wiring on the start side and only ran the amps off the house battery. Here is the diagram blue seas recommended.
You can call them for support if you like. They did explain as soon as the acr sees a charge from engine or charger it will combine. That’s why I disconnect at the breaker when shore charging, keeps them isolated during 2 bank charging.
Hey Guys, when you pull your 195s radio out of the transom, can someone take a picture of the back and the wires? Looking to just add an amp for the stock speakers to start, but wanted to know what I was getting into before I started. Thanks
I ran RCA’s to the amp. Then speaker wires from the amp back to the head unit and connected them there. I clipped off the head unit output speaker wires (green, purple, grey, blue) I think. That way I was just using the stock wiring. It works fine, but would probably have been better to just rewire to the stock speakers. I was to lazy to do that though. These pics are before I clipped the stock wires.
I did not use the start isolation. Just the ground with fuse. You could actually put a switch there to turn off the acr and isolate when you charge if you want. (See switch option in diagram) There is a wiring diagram I posted earlier but I did modify slightly. Instead of running stock accessories off the house, I kept all stock wiring on the start side and only ran the amps off the house battery. Here is the diagram blue seas recommended.
You can call them for support if you like. They did explain as soon as the acr sees a charge from engine or charger it will combine. That’s why I disconnect at the breaker when shore charging, keeps them isolated during 2 bank charging.
That is why I switched over where the ACR connects to the Load side, per their recommendation that way with the switch in the off position then the batteries are isolated. Talked to them at great length on the topic. Either way it still does the same thing. I just didn't want to pop breakers every time if I didn't need to.
Also the diagram you linked the 10 amp fuse to the Negative Bus Bar is supposed to be a 1 amp I believe per their recommendation now. That diagram is old. Unless they changed it back recently. As of April 29th of 2021 when they indicated that, that is what should be done. The guy I spoke with predicted that typical voltage going through the wire will be 20 milliamps. He also said for those that do have the 10 amp breaker it is not a big deal but if you can change it do so. Of course you want the fuse to pop when needed.
You shouldn't need to trip the breaker to shore charge. With the switch in the off position the batteries should be isolated from the system and each other. On mine, when I am in the off position my batteries are isolated and I have each battery on its own bank to charge.
That is why I switched over where the ACR connects to the Load side, per their recommendation that way with the switch in the off position then the batteries are isolated. Talked to them at great length on the topic. Either way it still does the same thing. I just didn't want to pop breakers every time if I didn't need to.
Also the diagram you linked the 10 amp fuse to the Negative Bus Bar is supposed to be a 1 amp I believe per their recommendation now. That diagram is old. Unless they changed it back recently. As of April 29th of 2021 when they indicated that, that is what should be done. The guy I spoke with predicted that typical voltage going through the wire will be 20 milliamps. He also said for those that do have the 10 amp breaker it is not a big deal but if you can change it do so. Of course you want the fuse to pop when needed.
I ran RCA’s to the amp. Then speaker wires from the amp back to the head unit and connected them there. I clipped off the head unit output speaker wires (green, purple, grey, blue) I think. That way I was just using the stock wiring. It works fine, but would probably have been better to just rewire to the stock speakers. I was to lazy to do that though. These pics are before I clipped the stock wires.
Your stock wiring should be perfectly fine as it's likely 14awg which is more than heavy enough. And since your boat has 4 stock speakers, the wiring will be direct to each speaker. I would have done the same but my boat had 6 speakers and 2 pairs of them were wired in series so I had to rewire it for my needs.
So for this is what I got done, I'm just waiting on switch to complete the secon battery set up
Kicker kmc5 radio with one remote on the back
Jl audio m6 4/6.5
Jl audio m6 2/7.7
Jl audio m. 2/8.8 tower speaker
One jl audio 10" subwoofer
One kicker 10" subwoofer
One jl audio m700/5 for the 4 6.5 and the jl sub
One jl audio m800 for the 7.7 and the 8.8 tower Bridge
And one kicker amp kma800.1 for the 10" subwoofer tub
Underwater light (the typhon) 1200 lumens from boatpluglight.com
Man @Pedrazaj1 thats fantastic work looks great. Send sound test clip . Nice clean wires. RGBs look great. Will you re-arrange the NOCO when you install the acr & switch, or are you just going switched only? That battery is a beast to get back there isn’t it?
Wondering how you ran the speaker wires to reach the rear bar on the tower?
Man @Pedrazaj1 thats fantastic work looks great. Send sound test clip . Nice clean wires. RGBs look great. Will you re-arrange the NOCO when you install the acr & switch, or are you just going switched only? That battery is a beast to get back there isn’t it?
Wondering how you ran the speaker wires to reach the rear bar on the tower?
Yes I will intall the ACR just like you did with the braker so I can disconnect when charging But I'm waiting on the switch
Well on the noco I think I will move it, I put it there because I tought I had to select what battery I'm charging everytime I plugged in but I have notice that it remember I might use that space for the breakers or ACR
I do have 2 brakers of 50 amp you think I can use those or should I buy 60amp brakers ?
On the tower speaker wires I open the screw hole that was there that I never use I hope I never have to use it I dicide to insall there because I like how the look and on the other bar they stick out to much and I storage the boat on my garage so I have to put the tower down and it will hit the steering wheel on the other bar and on that location I wanted them far to the corner because I didint know they are that big and in the middle I will hit it all the time
Man @Pedrazaj1 thats fantastic work looks great. Send sound test clip . Nice clean wires. RGBs look great. Will you re-arrange the NOCO when you install the acr & switch, or are you just going switched only? That battery is a beast to get back there isn’t it?
Wondering how you ran the speaker wires to reach the rear bar on the tower?
www.bluesea.com
. Nice clean wires. RGBs look great. Will you re-arrange the NOCO when you install the acr & switch, or are you just going switched only? That battery is a beast to get back there isn’t it? 
I dicide to insall there because I like how the look and on the other bar they stick out to much and I storage the boat on my garage so I have to put the tower down and it will hit the steering wheel on the other bar and on that location I wanted them far to the corner because I didint know they are that big and in the middle I will hit it all the time
